Mk2 GTi - 8v? What are they like?

[AusScare]

Ok sounds alright, no don't have cam done atm, where abouts would I find a 2L bottom end, and how much?

I don't even know what it looks like Are they easy to source.

[Brisben]

Ok sounds alright, no don't have cam done atm, where abouts would I find a 2L bottom end, and how much?

I don't even know what it looks like Are they easy to source.

You should try whatshisname in Brendale....oh someone help me out here..

Owning an oldish VW, nothing is easy to source, oh except petrol

[Spyda]

Ok sounds alright, no don't have cam done atm, where abouts would I find a 2L bottom end, and how much?

I don't even know what it looks like Are they easy to source.

There is a thread on clubgti.com about doing the conversion. Its prity straight forward. The easyest bottom end to get your hands on is a 2E. What ever bottom end you get you need a 2E dizzy. Also consider the price of gaskets (use a 2L gasket) and head bolts.

If you cant find a 2L bottom end localy give Matt (golfloon) a call, i think they are about $300-400. A cam will set you back ~$300 new including shipping...which is BS because they are like $130 in the states.

[velly_16v_cab]

i am loving this thread,
Spyda..you have pointed me in the right direction ( i hope)
I am getting a 2.0 motor off chris (aka MK2 GTI) and i am picking up the mk3 manifold from 16v kid on the weekend.
I have plenty of mates back in the uk who will send a cam to me (well, i have a few friend travelling out here who could carry on with them!)

I am not sure about drilling the airbox because of the warm weather here in the summer. I am just look at running 'feeds' to the inlet

I just need to bug chris to get the motor out of his car now

[Spyda]

i am loving this thread,
Spyda..you have pointed me in the right direction ( i hope)
I am getting a 2.0 motor off chris (aka MK2 GTI) and i am picking up the mk3 manifold from 16v kid on the weekend.
I have plenty of mates back in the uk who will send a cam to me (well, i have a few friend travelling out here who could carry on with them!)

I am not sure about drilling the airbox because of the warm weather here in the summer. I am just look at running 'feeds' to the inlet

I just need to bug chris to get the motor out of his car now

Awsome, im glad i can be of some help.

Drill the air box, dont worry about the warm weather it wont effect it. Make sure you drill on the front of it and on the fender side as you dont want it sucking in warm air from the engine. The holes should be about the size of a 20c coin. I fited a fully sic hektic epileptic cold air feed, it was just a 10$ 5" felx pipe that went from the bumper to where the baffle used to be, just to make sure it was geting cool air.

Let me just say again that drilling the box and adding a K&N filter doesnt realy do much, its makes it a bit more responsive and might add 1hp but the main difference is the sound and that you wont have to keep replacing the paper filter. It is also ALOT better than a pod filter as a pod fillter sucks in much more warm air, it was proven somewhere on the vortex or fixx with a dyno sheet or something.

If you start by removing the baffle inside the air box you will get a good taste of the sound, if you like what you hear then make some holes if you dont then simply put the baffle back in. The more holes you drill the louder and raspyer the sound gets. The sound is only heard when the throttle is open past about 75%.

[ozgti]

Awsome, im glad i can be of some help.

Drill the air box, dont worry about the warm weather it wont effect it. Make sure you drill on the front of it and on the fender side as you dont want it sucking in warm air from the engine. The holes should be about the size of a 20c coin. I fited a fully sic hektic epileptic cold air feed, it was just a 10$ 5" felx pipe that went from the bumper to where the baffle used to be, just to make sure it was geting cool air.

Let me just say again that drilling the box and adding a K&N filter doesnt realy do much, its makes it a bit more responsive and might add 1hp but the main difference is the sound and that you wont have to keep replacing the paper filter. It is also ALOT better than a pod filter as a pod fillter sucks in much more warm air, it was proven somewhere on the vortex or fixx with a dyno sheet or something.

If you start by removing the baffle inside the air box you will get a good taste of the sound, if you like what you hear then make some holes if you dont then simply put the baffle back in. The more holes you drill the louder and raspyer the sound gets. The sound is only heard when the throttle is open past about 75%.

I just cut the whole bottom off the airbox pretty much. Nice induction roar, but far enough away from the exhaust to not worry about sucking hot air.

[dub be good to me]

This is awesome. I've a Mk1 with the Mk2 Gti 1.8L and have been thinking of the 2lt upgrade.
Here is a how to I found a while ago
http://www.bailey.org.uk/engine-conversion/

It is pretty thorough and covers dizzy options (incl. spacer), importance of port/polish + bigger valves etc..

(I'll update this with another 'how to' on Monday - its in my bookmarks at work )

[Spyda]

This is awesome. I've a Mk1 with the Mk2 Gti 1.8L and have been thinking of the 2lt upgrade.
Here is a how to I found a while ago
http://www.bailey.org.uk/engine-conversion/

It is pretty thorough and covers dizzy options (incl. spacer), importance of port/polish + bigger valves etc..

(I'll update this with another 'how to' on Monday - its in my bookmarks at work )

Awsome. good post, prity much the same as on Clubgti but with pics.

[dub be good to me]

Had a further dig for more pics etc.
Dizzy spacer:
http://www.vwgolfmk1.org.uk/modules....howpage&pid=41

Also, the 3A bubble block (from Audi 80) is the best to use as the 2E is longer and can cause problems with fitting the exhaust manifold.
2E - longer stroke = extra capacity
3A - larger bore, diff crank = extra capacity

"If you are using the tall block from the MK3, AGG or 2E, you will find that your exhaust manifold won’t fit too nicely to the downpipe. I had a 15mm spacer plate made up so to lower the downpipe and avoid it fouling the bulkhead." (taken from http://www.bailey.org.uk/engine-conversion/)

EDIT - added an approx shopping list (TechTonics stuff is all in US$ - have to call US to order 0011+1+503+843+2700 then can setup email/paypal etc.)

TOTAL approx $700-$800

2lt Bottom end............................................... .....$300 - $400?

(Below are in US$ - divide by 0.8 to get AU$)

Camshaft
109 071 TT 8V Hydraulic Cam (268° - Street/Sport) 7 lbs .......................................... 130.00

Bigger Valves (4 of each required)
109 111 Oversize Intake Valve (8V Hyd, 42mm, 7mm Stem) 1 lb ................................. 27.00
109 112 Oversize Stainless 35mm Exhaust 7mm stem for Hyd. lifter 8V 1 lb ............... 27.00

Distributor
103 140 Distributor Adaptor Bushing (2.0L conversion) 1 lb ........................................ 30.00
103 145 *Distributor Gear (2.0L conversion) 1 lb .................................................. ........ 40.00
OR
103 146 Distributor Adaptor Bushing & Gear Kit (2.0L conversion) 2 lb ........................ 62.00
*If you have 2E dizzy you can use the gear from that

Breather Block Off Plates (these look simple enough and could be done DIY to save pennies)
103 130 Crankcase Breather Block Off Plate (2.0L Audi 80) 1 lb .................................. 65.00
OR
103 135 Crankcase Breather Block Off Plate (2.0L "tall block") 1 lb ............................ 65.00

Head Bolts
103 103 Standard Head Bolts (8V w/washer) ea., 1 lb .................................................. . 2.50