Kjet GTi Doesn't want to start.

[ozgti]

Yeah got fuel now. Filter which I thought was installed correctly was in fact backwards.

Just been driving it now- still has a stutter, but even better is I now have a hole in my fuel line! I'm about 5ks short of home, but I know I don't have anything there to suit! But I might be able to get a fitting off a mk1 pump setup to suit to get me on the way. Means bypassing the filter but hey Ho! Glad I caught it when I did- right opposite a servo. Only thing now is, how to get parts at 1700!!!

[ozgti]

Woo hoo!!! Finally got it home using a mix of old,new and unknown parts! Now to get it running right and find out what that rattle is at high revs!

[veedubnutz]

Good work mate!

[ozgti]

Trying to fix the hard start. I think my sensor plate isn't aligned properly. It sounds like it misfires from not having any air coming in (plate too low in the cone) but when I adjust it up, it kinda goes away, but then becomes hard to start.

It's starting to do my head in (again)!

[86gti]

It's rare for a sensor plate to just suddenly come out of allignment unless its been screwed with.
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...ing-60010.html


Best things to check for hard cold starts are

Auxiliary air valve does not open Check valve for correct function*
Electric fuel pump not operating Check pump fuse, pump relay and pump*
Cold start system defective Check cold start system*
Therm-time switch defective.... Test thermo-time switch*
"Cold" control pressure outside tolerance Test pressure*
Injector leaking, opening pressure low Check injectors on tester*
Injected fuel quantities unequal Check for equal fuel quantities*
Basic idle setting incorrect Check and adjust CO level*

[ozgti]

But it's also hard to start when warm.. I think it's losing line pressure. I had to ditch the accumulator as it was leaking, but it's like an injector isnt firing until higher revs.

[roccodingo]

Accumulator hold system pressure when engine is switched off, makes it possible to start engine when warm.
Why dont you read the manual and understand how it works, will save you a load of money replacing parts that are ok.
Unless you have a pressure guage and do the tests required to confirm if the pump is delivering enough pressure and volume of fuel K- jet will not operate satisfactorily.

The simple electrical tests will usually confirm the operation of the electrical components however its crucial that the delivery volume and pressure are within specified values. If you are unsure or dont have the correct tools and knowledge take it to someone who does. As said. it will save you dollars and time in the long run.

[ozgti]

I had a gauge on the WUR outlet from the metering head and it was showing 510 when idling and then when switched off, slowly dropped to almost nothing.

Bower power is going to have a look at it when he gets back, but means taking all the fuel gibbons off for him to test.

Mind you, this thing probably hasn't had a decent fuel service I the last 10 years or so!

[roccodingo]

Off the top of my head system pressure should stay high for about 1/2 an hour minimum, If you have bypassed the Accumulator thats is likely why yours drops . 510 in what units ??

We set Anton's control pressure at 81 PSI last month for its initial tune, the engine has only done 15 minutes run time. so its going back after 600 ~ 1000 Km for a power tune.

[ozgti]

Can't remember, think it was 5.1 bar??? Might try to run a different engine until I can get this Kjet sorted.

Anyone have an engine for sale??? lol