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Thread: K-Jet info and testing.

  1. #11
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    top job!!!
    keep up the great work

  2. #12
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    Great little write up, don't own a Kjet MK2 yet but I'll deffinantly favourite this.
    Could a mod sticky this?
    MK2 - *Insert list of dealer purchased extra's/standard features here*
    80 series - The MK2's BIG, Sooty, polar opposite...
    HAHAHA

  3. #13
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    Asaka-shi Saitama Japan (from Tassie)
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    cheers peoples, yeah shure helps if you do own a k-jet. Because most mechanics run and hide, or spend tonnes of your money "trying" to find the problem. I'll add some more soon.
    Cheers, Benny
    www.axesent.com.au

  4. #14
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    Great info! Very handy..

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86gti View Post
    PUMP RELAY

    Tachometric relay...... what that means is it only responds and sends a voltage to the pump when the engine is turning over or actually running. The relay gets its signal from the negative terminal of the coil , this confirms that the engine is turning.
    this relay is kind of a safety device... if the vehicle is involved in an accident when there is a possibility of a fuel line being fractured, the engine will stop due to a lack of fuel, the signal from the coil stops and then there is no voltage at the pumps.

    if the car wont run, get someone to see if they can hear the pumps going while its turning over....
    Early relays will not prime the pump when the ignition is turned on.

    My relay was a bit of a bugger to find....my bentley manual said it was somewhere that it wasn't.( U.S Manual)
    on my mk2 (UK) it was relay "62" as posted before.

    as explaned previously bridge the 2 main pins on the relay with a switch, and a 10 amp fuse in the line too...just to be safe..
    flick it on and see if it goes.lol.....

    If you relay is screwed a genuine one will cost in the amount of $150-250 AUS.....
    If you search the net you will find German made ones that will prime 2 times when you turn the ignition on, but also lift your rev limiter to a little over 7,000RPM for around $35 bux....
    Any ideas on part numbers or what to look for regarding the German relay?

  6. #16
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    Jun 2005
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    An LPG safety relay is also a tachometric relay and performs the same priming function. About $30 from an LPG fitter or auto electrician.

    GAP sell the stock ones for about $25. I keep one spare forthe race car as it's a saftey requirement that the fuel pump shuts off if the motor stops running.

    http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volks...ectrical/170/1
    Last edited by Peter Jones; 15-07-2011 at 09:33 PM.
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  7. #17
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    Thanks Benny, I'm bookmarking this thread. Next time you're down Canberra way I'm shouting you a beer or 4.

    Cheers

    Paul

  8. #18
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    Aug 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86gti View Post
    The Warm-up-Regulator ......
    This thing controls the amount of fuel delivered to the engine during it's warm-up period. The pressure acting upon the top of the control plunger varies depending on the engine temperature and provides an effective method of enrichment.
    The control pressure is tapped off from the primary pressure circuit in the metering head's lower chamber through a tiny restrictive hole which gives it the ability to differentiate between the two pressures. A flexible pipe then connects the control plunger gallery to the warm-up-regulator and returns back to the metering head to a connection next to the primary pressure regulator's transfer valve. This valve is in the circuit to close the fuel from the control circuit when the engine is off, avoiding the total loss of system pressure while the engine is stationary.

    The internals of the warm-up-regulator are quite simple comprising an inlet and outlet port, a stainless steel shim, a bi-metalic heated strip and a spring.

    The input to the warm-up-regulator flows into a small chamber in the top of the unit, its return is through a small drilling and back to the metering head. By controlling this return flow it will cause a change in pressure acting on the top of the control plunger. With a cold engine the flow must be fairly free giving it a lower pressure. This will allow a higher lift of the plunger which in turn will enrich the mixture under these conditions. The free flow is obtained by the internal bi-metalic strip exerting a downward pressure on the spring which decreases the pressure acting upon the shim, this lower force allows the fuel to flow almost uninterrupted.

    As the bi-metalic strip is heated, by either it's heater element or natural heat soak from the engine, the downward pressure acting on the spring is gradually decreased, increasing the force of the spring, which in turn increases the control pressure.

    Typical cold engine control pressure will be as low as 1.0 bar increasing over approx. 10 minutes to around 3.5 bar. Some warm-up-regulators have a vacuum connection that will sense a drop in vacuum and lower the control pressure during these acceleration periods.

    The voltage supply to the regulator is from the fuel pump relay, because if the ignition was on without the engine running, all enrichment would be removed as the bi-metalic strip would be heated prematurely and the driver would not benefit from the cold engine enrichment.

    The two pipes that connect to the warm-up-regulator have different sized 'banjo unions' to avoid them being connected incorrectly. The control pressures quoted are as an example only and reference should be made to the technical data as these pressures can be specific to the part number located on the unit's housing.
    This unit will have a resistance value of approximately 20 to 26 Ohms.

    NOTE :- it is important to disconnect the electrical connection to the unit before any pressure testing on the control circuit is performed as this will prematurely heat the bi-metalic strip and cold control pressures will not be available.
    OK, so I've got this issue with my valver: it struggles to start when stone cold (after sitting in the garage overnight), when it does though, it idles smoothly, no issues whatsoever until I take it on the road and occasionally (after only about a 1-2 minute drive, when still cold) it will stall (when coming to a stop/roundabout)? It's not the ISV, as I have given it a very good clean and it is working fine - again the idle is very stable.

    I'm thinking it could be the cold start valve (but then after starting and idling ok for a minute or so could it stall because of a faulty CSV?) Doesn't the CSV only assist in starting a cold engine and then become irrelevant once the engine has started?

    Could it be the warm-up regulator? Is there anything else that controls the amount of injected fuel during warm-up? I'm thinking the engine is not getting enough fuel when it's cold. Mind you, it runs perfectly fine when warm/hot - starts first time every time, starter motor only needs to turn once and idles very smoothly - it never stalls when warm/hot.

    Where is the warm-up regulator located?

    Can anyone help, please?

    Cheers,
    Dom
    Last edited by Domel; 19-07-2011 at 01:28 PM.
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  9. #19
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    WUR is the thing with 2 hoses going to it on the front f the engine block, just below and to the left of the upper hose outlet.

    I got a new relay, and I can hear the main pump prime twice. But still has the same symptoms. stutters at anything above 2k. Would I be correct in saying that this is the main pump dying/dead? It's noisey as hell too!

  10. #20
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    Parts4vws.com and Parts4Audis.com - Fuel Pump Relay
    relay there. the ones I got were a different brand and made in Germany. "Kracker" was the brand I think.
    My original relay didn't prime when the key was turned on, the new one I got primes 2 times.
    Cheers, Benny
    www.axesent.com.au

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