Depends on leverage, if its a small bar I dought you would torque it down to 100NM
Printable View
[QUOTE=Spyda;257961]If im standing on the wrench, or putting all my weight on it with my foot then min is 300NM[/QUOTE
You will break a normal size wrench trying to tighten it
Unless you have the specific strong arm tools its really a work shop job, as you will keep doing in hubs & bearings until it is properly tight
strong arm with a 4 foot pole or length of exhaust will work if you are doing it at home.
Yeah all this is good with a new nut because as mentioned the left will want to wander with the old nut as going in clockwise is asking for it to loosen
Cheers
Jmac
I can only tighten it untill the the wheel starts to turn. I got my bro to hold the brake as tight as he could and i still managed to move it, so its prity tight.
Will that be tight enough for the new nut?
And im not taking it to a work shop for them to charge me $50 to tighten a nut!
http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...056woops-1.jpg
dont overdo it, mine was doing the same...had to keep doing it up with a big pole, it weakens the shaft and....then the end snaps off mid corner on the boil on a nice country road...
like andrew said, thehubs sometimes wear in the spline and gradually work the nut loose, even with a new "stake" nut.....had a new nut on mine did the same.....luckly mine comming loose was caused by the spline on the shaft being worn... New drive shaft, new nut, torqued up to spec and she hasnt given any trouble in years.
Cheers guys.
I slamed the nut down before i went to Mat's to get new nut. It made it all the way there and we had trouble geting it off.
New lock nut is on and all is good and tight. There are still a few noises coming from that side of the car that i thought where caused by the loose nut. :duh:
like a bit of a weird squeek????
had the same thing..weird noise, was caused by the loose nut damaging the splines on the drive shaft :-(