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Thread: Engine problems.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    NSW
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    Engine problems.

    I put a new head on my 8v, torqued it all up, set the timing marks. Checked all the hoses/lines and even turned the intermediate shaft over to prime the head.

    Went to start it, started fine, ran for about 2-3 seconds, then a crack and knocking sounds. Killed the motor. Checked timing marks again- all good.

    Started it again, same thing, 3 seconds then knock knock. Killed it.

    What could this be and do I need to take the head off again to see or what?

    It was a brand new reco head.

    Any help/ideas appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Plugs out and have a look with a torch. Cam cover off and rotate the motor with 19mm 12 point socket on the crankshaft. Listening and feeling for something touching.

    I am also wondering if the crank pulley has spun, so the the whole thing isn't timed right. It's not enough to just line up the marks. You need to check that number 1 piston is at TDC when the timing marks says it should be. I have had this personally and it stumped me for quite a while.

    What's your oil pump like? Make sure the strainer isn't blocked up by dropping the sump.

    Gavin

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
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    Orange NSW
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    Check what Gavin said..

    But, what sort of knocking? Does it have oil pressure? It could have no oil pressure causing rod noise.. And that's REALLY bad.

    When it idles.. Does it idle smooth? Or is it really ill sounding?

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

  4. #4
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    Pulled the head off (again) and found a piece of metal that was beaten into the top of piston 2 crown. Only small, but enough to knock. BUT now, I have a tap tap sound (which is why i swapped heads in the first place!) only happens when on throttle.

    Checked the valves and it was fine. All valves open/close the same amount, no noises or anything.

    Idle wise- it's sorta smooth, but I'm not sure if it's the cam that is making it idle lumpier or there's something else. Is there an oil passage that could be blocked? When I turned the intermediate shaft, I get a decent spurt of oil from the oil passage between 3/4 cylinder, but nowt at the 1/2 end of the head.

    I have oil, oil pressure is about 3.5-4 bar when warm (Audi VDO gauge and sender) but then I get the oil buzzer/light coming on occasionally.

  5. #5
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    Doesn't sound good...

    Does it knock at idle, or is it ok until you bring the RPM up?

    Sounds to me like you have a fooked big end.. Which would also explain oil pressure issues. Is there any particles in the oil? I'd be pulling the pan off and checking your big end bearings if there is.

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

  6. #6
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    I'll take a video of it tomorrow. There's no knocking, just a tapping sound, like a valve on piston sound, but it happened with my old head and with this one.

    It's more noticable when on revs, but I think it could be the 4 branch and the leaky exhausts which mask it abit!

  7. #7
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    Can I ask if new cam followers were put into your new head?

  8. #8
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    Probably not bottom end, then.

    Quote Originally Posted by benough View Post
    Can I ask if new cam followers were put into your new head?
    Good point.. Make sure all your lifters are pumping up (and staying up) mate.

    APR Tuned | KW Suspension | INA Engineering | Mocal Oil Control |
    Website: http://www.tprengineering.com
    Email: chris@tprengineering.com

  9. #9
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    ??? It was a fully reco'd head, cam and valves reseated and stems replaced apparently. When I had TDC, the bucket/tappet.. Whichever it is, could be spun round by hand. Is it supposed to do that when the valve is closed?

  10. #10
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    Thread Starter





    Piece of metal bouncing around in the cylinder!


    Excuse the oil.

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