Beaten down by a Nova.

[evorobin]

Gotta agree with that. An 8v mk2 should never have been a gti, unless you include the G60 gti.

There's nothing wrong with the euro 8v...

http://www.pistonheads.com/reviews/r...sp?c=55&id=631

Spyda buy a 16v off matt if you want power, 8v is the better engine / gearbox combo imo

[Jarred]

is it possible that your MAF isn't functioning properly, thus causing a few headaches.

I've heard a few stories where people have gone to heaps of trouble, and in the end new MAF or checking/tightening the MAF, had solved all the problems.

As for making more power, I'd take Golfworx's advice - He knows what he's on about!

[Spyda]

you wont need to upgrade anything... maybe if you have rear drums. clutch no point unless you love burnouts.. is it slammed on coilovers yet? who cares how fast a nova is...

it's a nova.

Its lowered about 40mm, front spoiler is about 95mm from the ground and the exhaust is a bit lower. I have broken the spoiler 4 times already and bumper has been pushed off its clips about once a day. Its low enough to give a normal person problems but its not low enough do give a dubber and erection.

You still have compression issue's even if you do fit a euro head. Then if you add a big cam, your heading even further backward's due to the cam overlap & bleed off.

You would also want to fit extractor's along with a free flowing (at least 2.25") exhaust system to open up the power band.

Without sounding too cynical, I doubt an aussie spec 8V would feel anywhere near as quick/fast a 16V, especially a ABF with KR cam's.
That's like saying the my stock 80?hp GX feel's just as good as my modded 135hp GX.

If your chasing more power. My advice is an engine swap.
If you still want an 8V, source a complete euro GTI 8V engine with the higher compression ratio 10+:1, as these are a better base to work with.
Also have the better cyl. heads too.
Or try what Pete's doing & fit your top end & accessorie's to a golf 3 2L bottom end.

I ran brand new genuine stock mk1 GTI front brakes & mk2 GTI rear disc's, mk2 16V booster & master cyl., 16V proportioning valves & braided brake lines on my Mk1 & that was more than enough on a race track. Even after 10+ very hard lap's at Symmond's Plain's, I didn't have any braking problem's & could still pull up doing 165+km/h in under 80m.

I'd suggest if your going for power upgrades, is just check & make sure everything is in tip top condition & working order.
Clutch is probably a given & I'd upgrade that accordingly.

I wana get it working properly first off then if its stable ill look in to an exahust. As far as engine convertions go, im still learning but it wont be anything short of a VR. Ill need a car and lots of money. I understand with more power you need the suspention and brakes sorted so thats no where near the pipe works yet.

You say a euro spec 8v has lower compresion. Why cant i just lower the compression in a aussie 8v? I thought the only difference was the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Are there any other differences?

[Mischa]

Its lowered about 40mm, front spoiler is about 95mm from the ground and the exhaust is a bit lower. I have broken the spoiler 4 times already and bumper has been pushed off its clips about once a day. Its low enough to give a normal person problems but its not low enough do give a dubber and erection.



I wana get it working properly first off then if its stable ill look in to an exahust. As far as engine convertions go, im still learning but it wont be anything short of a VR. Ill need a car and lots of money. I understand with more power you need the suspention and brakes sorted so thats no where near the pipe works yet.

You say a euro spec 8v has lower compresion. Why cant i just lower the compression in a aussie 8v? I thought the only difference was the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Are there any other differences?

euro 8v has higher compression. the more you compress the air/fuel the more power you get out of it. until you reach a limit where it starts spontaneously combusting.

[Golf Loon]

This thread is funny. A few facts for you.

The Aussie GTI is a Jap spec 90Hp unit, they are wet and weak.

The UK spec cars had 110HP. The difference is in headwork, cam and exhaust.

If you put a G Grind cam or something bigger, a Mk3 GL exhaust and manifold and a pommie ecu, you will have a faster car.

ECU chip on its own wont do much, may even make you slower as it just chucks in more fuel. This wont help unless the motor is brething better.

I`d drill the airbox lots as well.

You also have to remember these were good all round fast cars 20 years ago. Nowadays most modern cars are faster. A well setup Mk2 through some twisties is still a ball to drive though. There are just not that many good ones in Australia.

[Spyda]

This thread is funny. A few facts for you.

The Aussie GTI is a Jap spec 90Hp unit, they are wet and weak.

The UK spec cars had 110HP. The difference is in headwork, cam and exhaust.

If you put a G Grind cam or something bigger, a Mk3 GL exhaust and manifold and a pommie ecu, you will have a faster car.

ECU chip on its own wont do much, may even make you slower as it just chucks in more fuel. This wont help unless the motor is brething better.

I`d drill the airbox lots as well.

Its geting a bit confusing now. If the UK Spec had different headwork, cam and exhaust why do i need a different ecu. Shouldnt it be the same, digiII?

Like i said before, a 2L bottom end, head work in the way off cams and bigger intake and exhaust valves or whatever the usal is, and 4-2-1 manifold (plus all the little tweaks etc.). While doing that, increase compression ratio, fuel pressure and get bigger injectors. That should be a decent amount of go, without having to change the brakes and further dinting the hip pocket.

The motor at the moment has a BMW MAF, K&N, drilled air box on the fender and front side with baffle removed, a cold air feed, and chip.
All that does nothing but make you sound like your from FnF, makes the car louder and gets rid of digilag. The car also stays cool, usaly staying on the fat white line on the tep guage, i dunno if thats normal.

I read that people with above mentioned work to their 8v have made ~150hp and had mid to high 7s 0-100 times.

[jayjay]

150hp from a counterflow 8v is a tall order without porting is a pretty big ask.

you wont need a different ecu at all. golfloon never said anything about needing a new ecu.

you also wont be able to increase compression ratio very easily... first things first. mk3 gl (thanks matt) exhaust manifold and a g-grind/neuspeed/lumpy-ass cam will make quite a reasonable difference. then if you're not -ing enough, worry about the others.


edit:

I read that people with above mentioned work to their 8v have made ~150hp and had mid to high 7s 0-100 times.

note - most of these guys are using the gl 2L bottom end, have bigger cams and are running them in 200kg lighter mk1s.

[jayjay]

Without sounding too cynical, I doubt an aussie spec 8V would feel anywhere near as quick/fast a 16V, especially a ABF with KR cam's.
That's like saying the my stock 80?hp GX feel's just as good as my modded 135hp GX.

hehe, dont worry you're not.

i have a eurospec big valve from south africa running k-jet. . apparently it has a bit of headwork and bigger cam too.
it goes pretty hard not like 16v in a mk1 hard, but like, 90's commodore hard.

[Spyda]

150hp from a counterflow 8v is a tall order without porting is a pretty big ask.

you wont need a different ecu at all. golfloon never said anything about needing a new ecu.

you also wont be able to increase compression ratio very easily... first things first. mk3 gl (thanks matt) exhaust manifold and a g-grind/neuspeed/lumpy-ass cam will make quite a reasonable difference. then if you're not -ing enough, worry about the others.


edit:

note - most of these guys are using the gl 2L bottom end, have bigger cams and are running them in 200kg lighter mk1s.

I have read that cross flow is no good unless you are going with turbo or SC.
I said it was a 2l bottom end, with head work (porting), cams and exahust that was making said figures.
Loon did say i needed a pommie ecu :S
Thouse guys are running said times and figures in mk2's as far as i read.

I figure it a worth while conversion. If you spend $4k and manage 140hp and another $1k uprating the brakes and roll bars ,or whatever to strenghten the chassi a little bit, you will have a mk2 worhty of carying the gti badge. It should be able to hastle some v8's in a straight line and will still be sweet around bendies.
For under $10k including the mk2 itself, you will have a proper 1 of 200 hot hatch.
Other conversions will cost a fair bit more, 2l 16v with cams = 180hp, vr6 = 170hp without exhaust etc. With that kind of power your brakes, chassi and suspention will need a fair bit more work to cope. VR conversion itself costing upwards of 5K. Itll have to be for another day.


Thats just my asumption. Im a right or wrong?

[evorobin]

Loon did say i needed a pommie ecu.

He meant the chip which you can buy off ebay cheaply I'm sure