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Thread: The Real Haynes Manual...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    The Real Haynes Manual...

    The real Haynes manual definitions
    *

    *>
    > Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
    > Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer
    > anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you?
    >
    > Haynes: Should remove easily.
    > Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable spanner
    > then beat repeatedly with a hammer.
    >
    > Haynes: This is a snug fit.
    > Translation: You will skin your knuckles! ... Clamp with adjustable spanner
    > then beat repeatedly with hammer.
    >
    > Haynes: This is a tight fit.
    > Translation: Not a hope in hell matey! ... Clamp with adjustable spanner
    > then beat repeatedly with hammer.
    >
    > Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
    > Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now
    > you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.
    >
    > Haynes: Pry...
    > Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...
    >
    > Haynes: Undo...
    > Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (industrial size).
    >
    > Haynes: Ease ...
    > Translation: Apply superhuman strength to ...
    >
    > Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
    > Translation: "Crikey what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!
    >
    > Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
    > Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers to
    > dig out the bayonet part and remaining glass shards.
    >
    > Haynes: Lightly...
    > Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead
    > are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now
    > cannot be considered "lightly".
    >
    > Haynes: Weekly checks...
    > Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!
    >
    > Haynes: Routine maintenance...
    > Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!
    >
    > Haynes: One spanner rating (simple).
    > Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to botch it
    > up?
    >
    > Haynes: Two spanner rating.
    > Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low,
    > tiny, ikkle number... but you also thought that the wiring diagram was a
    > map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to
    > you).
    >
    > Haynes: Three spanner rating (intermediate).
    > Translation: Make sure you won't need your car for a couple of days and
    > that your AA cover includes Home Start.
    >
    > Haynes: Four spanner rating.
    > Translation: You are seriously considering this aren't you, you pleb!
    >
    > Haynes: Five spanner rating (expert).
    > Translation: OK - but don't expect us to ride it afterwards!!!
    > Translation #2: Don't ever carry your loved ones in it again and don't
    > mention it to your insurance company.
    >
    > Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
    > Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!
    >
    > Haynes: Compress...
    > Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at,
    > throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the
    > garage whilst muttering "******" repeatedly under your breath.
    >
    > Haynes: Inspect...
    > Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are
    > looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I
    > thought, it's going to need a new one"!
    >
    > Haynes: Carefully...
    > Translation: You are about to cut yourself!
    >
    > Haynes: Retaining nut...
    > Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.
    >
    > Haynes: Get an assistant...
    > Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.
    >
    > Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
    > Translation: But you swear in different places.
    >
    > Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
    > Translation: Snap off...
    >
    > Haynes: Using a suitable drift or pin-punch...
    > Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!
    >
    > Haynes: Everyday toolkit
    > Translation: Ensure you have an RAC Card & Mobile Phone
    >
    > Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
    > Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate heat.
    > Translation #2: Heat up until glowing red, if it still doesn't come undone
    > use a hacksaw.
    >
    > Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
    > Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother. Clamp with
    > adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with hammer.
    >
    > Haynes: Index
    > Translation: List of all the things in the book bar the thing you want to
    > do!
    >
    > Haynes: Remove oil filter using an oil filter chain spanner or length of
    > bicycle chain.
    > Translation: Stick a screwdriver through it and beat handle repeatedly with
    > a hammer.
    >
    > Haynes: Replace old gasket with a new one.
    > Translation: I know I've got a tube of Krazy Glue around here somewhere.
    >
    > Haynes: Grease well before refitting.
    > Translation: Spend an hour searching for your tub of grease before chancing
    > upon a bottle of washing-up liquid. Wipe some congealed washing up liquid
    > from the dispenser nozzle and use that since it's got a similar texture and
    > will probably get you to Halfords to buy some Castrol grease.
    >
    > Haynes: See illustration for details
    > Translation: None of the illustrations notes will match the pictured
    > exploded, numbered parts. The unit illustrated is from a previous or
    > variant model.
    >
    >
    > HAYNES GUIDE TO TOOLS OF THE TRADE
    >
    >
    > HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer is nowadays used
    > as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the object
    > we are trying to hit.
    >
    > ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their
    > holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling
    > mounting holes just above the brake line that goes to the rear wheel.
    >
    > PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
    >
    > HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
    > principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion,
    > and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
    > future becomes.
    >
    > MOLE-GRIPS/ADJUSTABLE spanner: Used to round off bolt heads. If nothing
    > else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat
    > to the palm of your hand.
    >
    > OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for setting various flammable
    > objects in your garage on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside a
    > brake-drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
    >
    > WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older cars and motorcycles,
    > they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've
    > been searching for for the last 15 minutes.
    >
    > DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat
    > metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and
    > flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly
    > painted part you were drying.
    >
    > WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere under
    > the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprint whorls in
    > about the time it takes you to say, "F...."
    >
    > HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have
    > installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle firmly
    > under the front wing.
    >
    > EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a car upward off a
    > hydraulic jack.
    >
    > TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
    >
    > PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbour to see if he has another hydraulic
    > floor jack.
    >
    > SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
    > spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
    >
    > BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and is ten
    > times harder than any known drill bit.
    >
    > TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
    >
    > TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
    > strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to
    > disconnect.
    >
    > CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
    > inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end without
    > the handle.
    >
    > AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
    >
    > INSPECTION LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop
    > light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
    > not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main
    > purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate as 105-mm
    > howitzer shells during the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light,
    > its name is somewhat misleading.
    >
    > PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style paper-
    > and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as the
    > name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
    >
    > AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a fossil-fuel
    > burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air
    > that travels by hose to a pneumatic impact spanner that grips rusty bolts
    > last tightened 30 years ago by someone in Dagenham, and rounds them off.
    >
    > PRY (CROW) BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or
    > bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 pence part.
    >
    > HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses 1/2 inch too short.
    "If can't get behind your troops, feel free to stand in front of them..."

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Geelong, Victoria
    Posts
    859
    Users Country Flag

    funny because it is all true
    My build thread here: 1.6 sr into 1.8T http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...-8t-63249.html

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