HID Install

[OilBurna]

Isnt this fully illegal also love the warning this product could hot

[Hillbilly]

I can't believe there aren't more people that have upgraded to HIDs in their VW's, I guess VCDS coding is the only way to go then..?

EDIT: One other thing that perplexes me is that when I changed my License Plate loom lamp over from Halogen to LED we fitted a 12V load resistor from Autobarn to prevent the warning and also to turn it on (because the VW automatically cuts power to the light if it thinks it has blown).

Is a CANBUS kit not just fitted with a resistor to do exactly the same thing?
One of the guys over at VWGolf.net.au has just upgraded his low-beam's and main-beam's to HID using a regular HID kit and adding on these leads: Low Beam Failure Fix - Resistor Pack ? It looks like they've just fitted some resistor's to the leads to do exactly what we did for the tail lamp light.

Most havent because if not done properly its illegal. Also in other threads on the subject it has been more or less proved you get more light from the 4300 bulbs than the 6000 which may appear brighter but in fact arent

[brad]

I've had 6000k & 4300k and the the 6k definitely provide more light.
4300k are somewhat insipid and yellow.
6000k are a bit too grey and clinical.

Will try 5000k next time.

OP: What's your objection to coding the HIDs? At least it's done as proper as it can be.

[Hillbilly]

I've had 6000k & 4300k and the the 6k definitely provide more light.
4300k are somewhat insipid and yellow.
6000k are a bit too grey and clinical.

Will try 5000k next time.

OP: What's your objection to coding the HIDs? At least it's done as proper as it can be.

Not doubting you BUT

this seems to differ 3000k HID color temperature and light temperatures explained for HID Xenon conversion kits

[brad]

Not doubting you BUT

this seems to differ 3000k HID color temperature and light temperatures explained for HID Xenon conversion kits

blowed if I know what's going on then.

The 6000k used to reflect the signs on the motorway quite prominently. The 4300k don't seem to do that.

I'm not a fan of blue bulbs. The 6k were quite grey. I call it the Robocop look. I decided on 4300k because (supposedly) my daughter is going to take the car off my hands and I'm trying to make it look OEM because the police hassle young people more than old grey hairs like me.

Even in the underground car park at work the 4300k just don't appear to light as well as the 6000k.

[Hillbilly]

blowed if I know what's going on then.

The 6000k used to reflect the signs on the motorway quite prominently. The 4300k don't seem to do that.

I'm not a fan of blue bulbs. The 6k were quite grey. I call it the Robocop look. I decided on 4300k because (supposedly) my daughter is going to take the car off my hands and I'm trying to make it look OEM because the police hassle young people more than old grey hairs like me.

Even in the underground car park at work the 4300k just don't appear to light as well as the 6000k.

I think its in the perception. What they say is correct but what shows up may be different due to color difference. The white light may appear to be clearer but is as they say has a lesser output of light.

Im quite happy with my standard factory HID's as I dont drive at night very much.

[adzify106]

OP: What's your objection to coding the HIDs? At least it's done as proper as it can be.

I've got no objection to coding for the HID's however that is only a solution for Low-Beam and I personally don't want to just upgrade the Low-Beam and not the Main-Beam.

I've been doing some research and it seems like others have managed it.

I can't understand the issue using capacitor's? The guy from Autobarn fitted capacitors when he converted my License plate halogen looms to LEDs.

There are guys out there on the VWGolf.net forums that have upgraded their HID's both Low & Main beam without the need to touch the VCDS. Morimoto and USP Motorsports both have 'VW friendly' kits from the looks of it.

*The Morimoto kits have a CANBUS harness which contains a capacitor and resistor - yet there are issues if you have both DRL and Low-Beam's it seems to cause issues with Low-beam Auto On/Off which have been reported in the thread below which leads on to the next brand..
*The USP Motorsports has a "Built in resistor for no flickering or warning lights" which was specifically recommended here after someone had issues with the Low-Beam Auto On/Off function using a cheap kit with some eBay error cancellers:
HID Bulbs, Ballasts or Error Canceller? - Page 2
The Passat has no DRL's that I'm aware of - I only have Low-Beam and Main-Beam so the Auto On/Off issues should not apply to the B6 for either one of those kits.

So If they are fitting these with no VCDS retouching to Golf's what would be different with a Passat? I would think there would be more similarities between an AU 2013 MkVI Golf & an AU B6 Passat than a UK Skoda Octavia MkII ?

There is just so much conflicting information which is making me hesitant, I don't like committing to anything without doing my research. I'm also seeking some advice from the Forums over at Passatworld.com so as I get more info I will be sharing it for others benefit as it comes to light.

I'll listen to anything anyone has to offer and if there is a way to use the VCDS to safeguard the BCM for Low & Main beam then I'll definitely be interested to hear it.

Thanks again

[brad]

An Octavia is just a better made Golf with a fat bum. Chassis & electrics are near enough the same.

If you use resistors then you are still pulling 55w from the system & the resistor generates a lot of heat shedding the 20w. Code it in with a non-resistor kit and you only use 35w.

Do the low beams with a non-canbus HID kit & code them & do the high beams with an "error free" kit. Or just use 2x error free kits, a 35w for the H7 low beam and a 55w for the high beam.

There's a dozen ways to skin this cat but it will still be a hairy cat if you do nothing.

[adzify106]

If you use resistors then you are still pulling 55w from the system & the resistor generates a lot of heat shedding the 20w. Code it in with a non-resistor kit and you only use 35w.

Do the low beams with a non-canbus HID kit & code them & do the high beams with an "error free" kit. Or just use 2x error free kits, a 35w for the H7 low beam and a 55w for the high beam.

1. Thanks for the advice, do the 55w kits not get hot then? I've read around a few forums and have found mixed messages:
*Someone said "55 watt HID ballasts, I assume, have a much larger start-up current spike; you could enter the realm of blown fuses and/or melted wires."
*Another: "i've heard stories about 55w kits melting harnesses though"
*Then in the same breath: "HID's burn cooler than halogens do anyhow "

2. A wiring harness (connects HID directly to battery with appropriate gauged wire?) would overcome the wires melting?
2.5 Would that mean an extra 20W (like the capacitor) has to be shed in the lighting housing?

3. If I was running a 55w kit there would not be a need to use an 'error free' kit then as the BCM would register 55w present?

Thanks for your patience I appreciate the advice

[brad]

See below:

1. Thanks for the advice, do the 55w kits not get hot then? I've read around a few forums and have found mixed messages:
Yes they do get hot but I haven't an issue with this as they are doing a useful job. The resistor is just burning power
*Someone said "55 watt HID ballasts, I assume, have a much larger start-up current spike; you could enter the realm of blown fuses and/or melted wires."
I wouldn't have a clue. I know a few guys that have run 55w HIDs and not reported this issue. While a start-up current spike may blow a fuse it won't melt a wire as it's a short spike
*Another: "i've heard stories about 55w kits melting harnesses though"
*Then in the same breath: "HID's burn cooler than halogens do anyhow "
The heat that the globe produces would have no effect on the harness. If the current draw is in exess of what the harness is rated at then you'll have issues.
I have no idea (not willing to guess) what comparitive temps the bulbs run at

2. A wiring harness (connects HID directly to battery with appropriate gauged wire?) would overcome the wires melting?
i guess you could make a harness with a relay (or buy a heavy duty harness). It would even improve your halogen lights
2.5 Would that mean an extra 20W (like the capacitor) has to be shed in the lighting housing?
It would depend where you mount the ballast and the resistor.
On my car I've jammed them all into the headlight housing because there was room & it meant I didn't have to drill holes to get outside the housing. I'm not sure what the Passat looks like.

3. If I was running a 55w kit there would not be a need to use an 'error free' kit then as the BCM would register 55w present?
That sounds logical to me.

Thanks for your patience I appreciate the advice