DIY Car Ramps

[3C4M Guy]

I've never been a big fan of the metal-frame car ramps with welded cross bars. I don't have room for a hoist. So I made myself some solid timber car ramps that are wide and stable with a gentle gradient for driving onto. I've been using them for a while and they work well for me.

They're made from 75 x 200 treated pine sleepers from Bunnings. They break apart for easy storage then assemble easily and lock firmly together. I have the option of going 2 sleepers high with a 150mm lift which is fine for oil & filter changes. Or I can go 3 sleepers high with a 225mm lift for other work. Jacking up the rear of the car at the same time gives access from front to rear and keeps the car level for critical fluid measurement.

[Lucas_R]

Great idea - well done

[AnmanIndustries]

There is also a safety reason why the metal ones act like a mini staircase made out of pot holes. Adds stability to it. Not that ive been able to use mine as none of my cars (except the passat i only just bouht) can clear the first bit of the ramp.

[Sunny43.5]

I like the idea , I often worry that the steel ones while good for getting up in steps are not going to hold the weight at the welds . At least if the wooden ones were going to collapse you would hear them crunching slowly .Steel one would just collapse leaving you like a toad on the road in North Qld .

[3C4M Guy]

I had metal ones and over time the welds broke. Also many of the commercially-available ones hit the front of the car and cause damage before the car starts to climb. One advantage of making your own is you can design in a gentle gradient that is easier to drive up without causing damage.

[theresanothersteve]

I like the idea , I often worry that the steel ones while good for getting up in steps are not going to hold the weight at the welds . At least if the wooden ones were going to collapse you would hear them crunching slowly .Steel one would just collapse leaving you like a toad on the road in North Qld .

They should be designed so that the welds are not in sheer. Check the uprights are under the pieces they support and no parts are suspended. Angle iron needs to twist to fail, pushing against one of the legs should be fine. The welds just hold pieces in place. Trust me, I'm a boilermaker - welder (or I was until a major injury prevented me from pursuing my chosen career).

[theresanothersteve]

I like the idea , I often worry that the steel ones while good for getting up in steps are not going to hold the weight at the welds . At least if the wooden ones were going to collapse you would hear them crunching slowly .Steel one would just collapse leaving you like a toad on the road in North Qld .

They should be designed so that the welds are not in sheer. Check the uprights are under the pieces they support and no parts are suspended. Angle iron needs to twist to fail, pushing against the legs combined should be fine. The welds just hold pieces in place.

Of course, I know what to look for and I don't trust Chinese manufacture due to cold lapping and lack of penetration.

Trust me, I'm a boilermaker - welder (or I was until a major injury prevented me from pursuing my chosen career).