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Thread: Wheel Shims, not spacers.

  1. #1
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    Wheel Shims, not spacers.

    I have some mad compomotive old skool wheels on the rocco, but they have a crazy offset.

    My question is can I put a metal disk, as a shim between the face of the wheel and the lip where th pieces join. This will move the tyre into the arch more and be safe.

    It seems that compomotive have thought of this, as the bolts are all a bit too long and could accomodate a spacer plate.

    Anyone know somewhere that stocks or makes such things??

    These are the wheels.








    It would need to be a hula hoop of flat steel with 20 holes in it, 10mm in diameter or similar.

    Hope some of you wheel nerds can help me.
    Last edited by Golf Loon; 17-08-2010 at 12:59 AM.
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  2. #2
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    dude,

    the answer is errrr........no. Compomotive are useless much to my dismay, they are quite happy to sell you bits all day long but won’t help with problems as I found to my cost, if you want to change your wheel et the easiest way to do it is to fit some spacers.

    I’ve had issued with my fronts for a couple of years now because I couldn’t get the wheel to site the way I wanted under the arch so ended up changing lips and barrels to change the et of the fronts plus numerous tyre combinations so that I could play with stretch and now I’m about to fit spaces to fine tune it and play with camber.

    What’s the problem with yours and is it the same in the front and rear?

    I think they are an early ts design BTW

  3. #3
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    Does Simmons wheels still exist? They do component wheels and might have what you need

    So you want to move the wheels inward a fraction? I'd be more inclined to get the back of the wheel (the hub face or the centre or whatever it's called) machined down a few mm.
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  4. #4
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    They sit too far out at the front. Everyone likes poke, but I also like the paint on my guards......

    You cannot machine the rear of the rim, its not a solid back and would not be strong enough.

    An alloy or steel machined hoop is the only way I reckon.
    Camden GTI Performance. VW / AUDI Specialists
    All Mechanical Work, Log book Servicing, New and used Parts and Imports
    19-20/6 Badgally Road, Campbelltown, 2560
    02 4627 3072 or 0423 051737 www.camdengti.com

  5. #5
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    shave the rear for higher offset.. even if its not a solid back it can be done and has been done... unless you needed to shave like more then 5mm off then i wouldnt do it..
    st george tyres does it.
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  6. #6
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    NEALE WHEELS in strathfield thay are the main simmmons guys now.There is also one other place cant remember the name you only need the tiniest part removed they may machine for you but when i was there we were in dispute so the back of me is all they wanted to see

    I think your gaurds will pump out the amount you require without damagaing them and its fairly cheap..I know u will hate it but try JDM place in ryde 98074488 my friend spoke highly of them and they said if your pain is not old it will be easy...also for your car will be much easier if your kit was painted seperately not while on the car.you only need 5mil to make it right. i hope you get it sorted

  7. #7
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    Is machining the hub an option?

  8. #8
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    machining the hub can effect the brake clearance so you have to be a little careful there as well.
    I think loon is onto an interesting idea and it would most likely work. My only concern would be how much it would cost to have the custom hoops made up. Good quality work doesnt come cheap!

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim View Post
    I think loon is onto an interesting idea and it would most likely work.
    Cant see why not. how would be it be any differnet to spacers, adapters etc.
    I agree that its a good idea. He may not want to do permant changes to the car/wheels such as shaving the back of the wheel or pulling guards.
    As Tim said it would just come down to money and quality
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  10. #10
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    I haven't seen this done before - I could see possible issues with balancing especially if the hoops weren't made properly, and depending on how the pieces are attached, possible air leaks.

    Easiest (but definitely not the cheapest solution) is to find some thinner lips. Or if it isn't already, mount the centre as the outer most piece (though it would only grant ~5 mm more offset, at the most).

    Or you could stretch some 165s and dial in some camber Hot wheels by the way!

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