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Thread: Confirming camber adj on mk4 fronts

  1. #1
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    Confirming camber adj on mk4 fronts

    Whilst getting an alignment I was asked to confirm for the align place that there is camber adjustment on the stock Lower Control Arms. The only answer i had (other than adjustable top mounts) was the slight eliptical bolt holes in the LCA where the ball joint sits.

    Refer here:-
    Volkswagen Jetta IV VR6 24v > Suspension > OEM > ES#260071 Lower Front Control Arm - Fits Left And Right Side - 1J0407151C

    Is this correct? If so, how much range of camber adjustment is available?
    MY02 Bora V6 4Mo|Matte Black plastidip|VTDA|R32 Exhaust|R32 dampers and springs|TT pedals|R32 steering wheel|17" 8L S3 rims|R32 sways|Blue Haldex|EBC reds

  2. #2
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    anybody? nothing? tough crowd
    MY02 Bora V6 4Mo|Matte Black plastidip|VTDA|R32 Exhaust|R32 dampers and springs|TT pedals|R32 steering wheel|17" 8L S3 rims|R32 sways|Blue Haldex|EBC reds

  3. #3
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    Yeah, you can adjust it but it's not like the olden days of MK1s. There's not loads of degrees available.

    Gavin

  4. #4
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    Dyldo,
    Apologies for bringing back an old thread but I'm curious to know how you went.
    I also want to be able to adjust my camber, mainly to correct some neg camber from lowering.
    I want my car set up for street use and don't want to chew the inside of my tyres out. Most kits I've seen are to increase neg camber, not reduce it.

    PS The ECS LCA's that you linked are not the adjustable TT ones.
    Mk IV Golf GTI - BMP - GIAC chip, R32 wheels, KW coilovers, rear swaybar.
    Originally Posted by JoeVR
    I've never been a big fan of rotors, or really Japanese cars in general, so my choice would have to be..... an RX-8.

  5. #5
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    The Mk4 FWD setup doesn't camber much from lowering. Adjustment is pretty much non existent for the FWD as the slots for the ball joint bolts on the LCA are not elliptical. The ones on the TT/R32/S3 are though - I'll be converting my A3 FWD to run S3 spindles and LCA to gain camber adjustment as well as better suspension geometry for lowering (the ball joint sits lower on the TT/R32/S3 spindles compared to the FWD models).

    Have you had your car aligned yet? Would be good to note down what the camber is at now, cos you might not need to have it adjusted.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by rayray086 View Post
    The Mk4 FWD setup doesn't camber much from lowering. Adjustment is pretty much non existent for the FWD as the slots for the ball joint bolts on the LCA are not elliptical. The ones on the TT/R32/S3 are though - I'll be converting my A3 FWD to run S3 spindles and LCA to gain camber adjustment as well as better suspension geometry for lowering (the ball joint sits lower on the TT/R32/S3 spindles compared to the FWD models).

    Have you had your car aligned yet? Would be good to note down what the camber is at now, cos you might not need to have it adjusted.

    You do realise you have to change control arms, ball joints, tie rods (possibly rack), sway bar and linkages?
    Euro Revolution - eurorevolution@live.com.au
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speed View Post
    Dyldo,
    Apologies for bringing back an old thread but I'm curious to know how you went.
    I also want to be able to adjust my camber, mainly to correct some neg camber from lowering.
    I want my car set up for street use and don't want to chew the inside of my tyres out. Most kits I've seen are to increase neg camber, not reduce it.
    Mate great timing. I picked up a used set of R32 shocks and springs and will be putting those back in with my original stock arms. I will need to address the quality issues I am experiencing with the Gruvenparts adj LCAs. They will be coming off and getting sent back to Gruven. They keep failing at the welds and become fused so no adjustment.
    MY02 Bora V6 4Mo|Matte Black plastidip|VTDA|R32 Exhaust|R32 dampers and springs|TT pedals|R32 steering wheel|17" 8L S3 rims|R32 sways|Blue Haldex|EBC reds

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by whiteVR6 View Post
    You do realise you have to change control arms, ball joints, tie rods (possibly rack), sway bar and linkages?
    Yep, located an S3 wreck and gonna be helping the guy pull out the stuff. That said, I'm replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie-rod ends. Gonna flip the tierods and switch them around, that's meant to work going by what the yanks do. Keeps the LCA and tie-rod angle the same too. Otherwise I'll just add S3 tie-rods into the mix. Not running swaybar.

    You know I like my lows haha.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rayray086 View Post
    Have you had your car aligned yet? Would be good to note down what the camber is at now, cos you might not need to have it adjusted.
    Not yet, have replaced a bent KW strut on the front right. Prior to the this I had 3 degrees neg camber. Am finishing it off today (now that I have a rattle gun!) but don't like the idea that the camber can't be adjusted.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dyldo View Post
    Mate great timing. I picked up a used set of R32 shocks and springs and will be putting those back in with my original stock arms. I will need to address the quality issues I am experiencing with the Gruvenparts adj LCAs. They will be coming off and getting sent back to Gruven. They keep failing at the welds and become fused so no adjustment.
    Yeah I saw your pics re the gruven parts LCAs. Not good!

    K-MAC make a strut tower camber/caster adjustment for $480 a pair. I am considering this option for optimal geometry. Would be less fuss to change settings if ever hitting the track.
    Overall I just want to have it 0 toe in and minimal neg camber - Not sure if this should be 0 or about 1 degree?
    Mk IV Golf GTI - BMP - GIAC chip, R32 wheels, KW coilovers, rear swaybar.
    Originally Posted by JoeVR
    I've never been a big fan of rotors, or really Japanese cars in general, so my choice would have to be..... an RX-8.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rayray086 View Post
    Yep, located an S3 wreck and gonna be helping the guy pull out the stuff. That said, I'm replacing all the bushings, ball joints and tie-rod ends. Gonna flip the tierods and switch them around, that's meant to work going by what the yanks do. Keeps the LCA and tie-rod angle the same too. Otherwise I'll just add S3 tie-rods into the mix. Not running swaybar.

    You know I like my lows haha.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
    Is it possible to pull the rear suspension and haldex from an s3 and convert an a3 to quattro?

    Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk
    Audi A3 1.8 T
    aiming for 200kw atw
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