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Thread: 5x114.3 onto a 5x112

  1. #11
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    From what I understand, wobble bolts are designed to allow the threaded bolt to sit off centre to the floating rounded seat/washer since it otherwise wouldn't be centred and wouldn't be holding on correctly.

    Given we are talking an offset difference of 2.3mm or 1.15mm off centre per bolt that's getting close to the tolerances the wheels are likely built to so you are correct that they are probably very close to OK even with standard bolts. The wobble part making things sit that much more cleanly and even more likely to work perfectly. As long as you are running hub centric rings everything *should* be neatly aligned.

    But like I said, it's not something I would personally do or recommend to others. What special must have wheels are you looking at that happen to be 114.3 ??


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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by The_Hawk View Post
    From what I understand, wobble bolts are designed to allow the threaded bolt to sit off centre to the floating rounded seat/washer since it otherwise wouldn't be centred and wouldn't be holding on correctly.

    Given we are talking an offset difference of 2.3mm or 1.15mm off centre per bolt that's getting close to the tolerances the wheels are likely built to so you are correct that they are probably very close to OK even with standard bolts. The wobble part making things sit that much more cleanly and even more likely to work perfectly. As long as you are running hub centric rings everything *should* be neatly aligned.

    But like I said, it's not something I would personally do or recommend to others. What special must have wheels are you looking at that happen to be 114.3 ??
    114.3 is a JDM setup.
    Wobble bolts seems to be the common answer from my research but as Aaron said, I wouldn't do it on my car as it just isn't worth the risk and I don't know the legalities of the bolts either so you are going in to uncharted territory there.
    I would assume if there is any incident insurance would drop you instantly.

  3. #13
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    Don't do it. Has stated earlier voids insurance and is a safety hazard.

  4. #14
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    As The_Hawk said the mm difference ends up so minimal. A wobble bolt is designed to 'wobble' 2.5mm with a 5x114.3 to 5x112 you're looking at what I believe to be 1mm difference per lug hole as 5x114.3 almost lines up on a 5x112 hub it's just so that no stress is put on the bolts and they seat cleanly. That to me is logical and so I think wobble bolts are fine to use. Some are even TUV approved. I will most definitely be using them if I don't go down the stud conversion with wobble nut path which is more what this thread was aimed at discussing..

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by HaydEn View Post
    Don't do it. Has stated earlier voids insurance and is a safety hazard.
    how about running adapters..didnt you run some? that voids insurance..pretty sure thats worse.

    Besides, wobble bolts grab normally like normal bolts. Its the seat that moves. And it moves only slightly to sit properly..theres no difference to running normal bolts.

    Youve got to see them in real life and actually watch how it works before judging.

  6. #16
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    If you have the option to bore the 12mm 5x114, why not make then 14mm holes but in the 112 pattern, it almost lines up and you kill two birds with one stone

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dylan8 View Post
    If you have the option to bore the 12mm 5x114, why not make then 14mm holes but in the 112 pattern, it almost lines up and you kill two birds with one stone
    Wouldn't they need to be sleeved Otherwise would just be an elongated hole?

    It's not a big deal to me about running wobble bolts was just thinking that stud idea could've been nifty.

  8. #18
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    Not really.
    If you draw it out the hole would only be .3mm off. Plus could go for a 15mm hole or something and completely cover it

  9. #19
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    I'm from the generation that ran Falcon GT's and XU1 Toranas. Back then it was common to replace the factory steel wheels with alloy ones from aftermarket suppliers. Not once in the dozens of cars that me and my mates modified did we consider hubcentric rims, they weren't a concern back then. We just bought what we wanted and bolted them on. Some of the wheels I've fitted had a 5mm gap around the hub but sat flush and the wheel bolts kept the wheel centered and on tight.

    We never had wheels falling off or shearing studs and we ran some pretty quick cars. My brothers Torana did 150 mph down Conrod Straight in a club event and a mates track car did 170+, all without hubcentric rims. I ran a Bolwell Nagari with a 351 for years and it never had wheel problems with any of the sets of wheels I fitted.

    The reason I'm posting this is to remind you that this is the real world we live in. All the doom and gloom people who tell you that you can't do this and can't do that seem to live in a world of strict regulations and stories they've picked up from the internet. Wheel studs don't shear off unless they are already damaged (previous collision or removed with a hammer by an idiot or years driven on bumpy dirt roads etc). Plus you have 5 per wheel, some of our cars were only 4 stud.

    Do what you want to do, you'll soon know if it doesn't work by the feeling of the car when it drives. If it's as smooth as silk then there's no problem and you're going to check your work every now and then aren't you.

    If anyone is thinking of writing a rebuttal and mentions some of the things we did wrong in the 70's (thalidomide, no seatbelts, Ozzy Osborne) and then relates it to my comments please don't bother posting. I'm talking only about wheels and real life experiences.

    Cheers

    Paul
    Last edited by sports racer; 05-04-2014 at 11:13 AM.

  10. #20
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    its not the hubcentric ring that is the problem Sports racer it would just centre the wheel over the hub due to the offset in the studs and wheels pulling the wheel sideways as you tighten the bolts up, I remember holden people I think it was breaking studs by using the old wheels on newer cars or visa versa(From memory they changed the stud pattern every so slightly just like the above)
    but as said, the wobble bolts probably work fine to fix the issue.. but I would make sure you do heaps of research of the cons of such a product as it is still putting lateral torque on the bolt.
    are you taking the car on the track?
    can you not get those wheels in the correct pattern?

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