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Thread: Running In procedure 103tdi

  1. #1
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    Running In procedure 103tdi

    Hi
    Am about to get a Scout but would like to know if there is a Diesel Specific Running in Procedure.
    A mate of mine had a Land Rover defender and he was told to drive it like he hated it to run it in.. This leads me to conclude that being too gentle during running in may glaze bores or lead to a lazy engine?
    Thanks
    Nick

  2. #2
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    Thread Starter

    15000 km first service too long

    HI
    I have read the thread(s) re the "special" running in oils that come in the Diesels but find it hard to accept a 15k first service. My neighbour was a diesel mechanic for a zillion years and he says with the small spin on type filters, long oil intervals are a recipe for engine wear. If the filters were big etc then ok.
    I plan to do my 1st service at about 2k then 7 then 12 then 15k. I wont be telling the dealer as ridiculously some on the forum say it might void warranty... well I'll be!!!
    Thanks

  3. #3
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    Thread Starter

    What oils in 103tdi? (skoda Scout)

    Futrhter to my post re the running in/oil change intervals my next question is
    What oils are some of you using in the 103tdi with DPF?
    Brands I have used in other cars are Shell helix ultra/Mobil 1
    so which full on synthetic can anyone recommend?
    Thanks
    Where can I get genuine oil filters.. if changing oil invalidates warranty then i need a melbourne dealer
    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Nick, welcome to the forums.

    In short, yes, you should work the engine a bit.

    Please read the stickies and do a search as this has been covered many times... e.g.

    http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...ine-12575.html

    Also, your car user manual has a great running in procedure.

    Cheers
    Aydan
    Last edited by gldgti; 02-04-2012 at 12:45 PM.
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by duderduderini View Post
    Hi
    drive it like he hated it to run it in.. This leads me to conclude that being too gentle during running in may glaze bores or lead to a lazy engine?
    Thanks
    Nick
    yep. hole in one. wait till its nice and warm (10-12kms of normal non hwy driving), then thrash it.

    even n/a clio renaultsports seem to have higher dyno figures when they've been run in hard, versus treating the thing like some sort of delicate china doll.

  6. #6
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    shell helix, fuchs, etc etc... as long as it's 5w30, VAG spec 504.00-507.00 approved, then you can put it in your car.

    penrite has an oil as per the above specs, that says it's VW/Audi long life specific on the front label. i use that for top ups.

    ---------- Post added at 03:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:11 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by duderduderini View Post
    HI
    I have read the thread(s) re the "special" running in oils that come in the Diesels but find it hard to accept a 15k first service. My neighbour was a diesel mechanic for a zillion years and he says with the small spin on type filters, long oil intervals are a recipe for engine wear. If the filters were big etc then ok.
    I plan to do my 1st service at about 2k then 7 then 12 then 15k. I wont be telling the dealer as ridiculously some on the forum say it might void warranty... well I'll be!!!
    Thanks
    funnily enough there is quite a bit of talk on tdiclub.com that alludes to all the wear on an engine taking place within the first 1,000 miles (or whatever) of replacing the oil, due to the detergents used in modern synthetic oils.

    the argument seems to be that replacing the oil frequently is a recipe for engine wear. there are those that agree and disagree, however i've chosen ''longer" oil change intervals - 20,000km minimum.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by duderduderini View Post
    HI
    I have read the thread(s) re the "special" running in oils that come in the Diesels but find it hard to accept a 15k first service. My neighbour was a diesel mechanic for a zillion years and he says with the small spin on type filters, long oil intervals are a recipe for engine wear. If the filters were big etc then ok.
    I plan to do my 1st service at about 2k then 7 then 12 then 15k. I wont be telling the dealer as ridiculously some on the forum say it might void warranty... well I'll be!!!
    Thanks
    You'll be ok.
    I changed the oil at 1000km in our 103TDI Tiguan and now at 12,500km, it already had 3 oil changes. IMO, there is no special oil beacause of the DPF at least.

    As for your other questions (I merged your threads into this one) the brand doesn't matter as long as it is VW507.00 approved.
    I change the engine oil every 7,500km or 6 months and recomend the same to everybody who drives in the city traffic or under severe driving conditions.

    ---------- Post added at 04:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:49 PM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Buller_Scott View Post
    funnily enough there is quite a bit of talk on tdiclub.com that alludes to all the wear on an engine taking place within the first 1,000 miles (or whatever) of replacing the oil, due to the detergents used in modern synthetic oils.

    the argument seems to be that replacing the oil frequently is a recipe for engine wear. there are those that agree and disagree, however i've chosen ''longer" oil change intervals - 20,000km minimum.
    Well, don't believe in everything what you read over the internet. I'm failing to get how the fresh oil with all the additives in, is worst for the engine than continue driving on the oil with additives that are 1/2 depleted or depleted. Even if you would change the oil every day, you will not get more engine wear.

  8. #8
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    I've heard its the same with petrol cars too
    as the bores when machined now are a finer process than long ago so you actually have to 'drive it like you stole it' when running in the engine so there is less chance of glazing up etc

  9. #9
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    Mar 2012
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    Thread Starter
    Thanks Guys. It scares me to think that new oil causes wear.. I am not challenging the member who wrote it but I just Cant figure how it can.. if anyone knows the science behind it, then please post.
    Many thanks for all your advice.
    Guess i will be "working the tdi more than anticipated"
    Nick

  10. #10
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    You do indeed need to watch your oils with the DPF in mind. You want a zero ash oil, and most higher end 507 spec oils are low ash. Oil ash cannot be burnt off in the DPF and is the majority causitive agent that eventually clogs it.

    I use Penrite Enviro, but anything decent and 507 spec will be fine.

    I am a big fan of swapping out the oil early during run in, and always try to run in on mineral oils, but was unable to do so with the TDI due to the PD cam requirements for synthetic high shear oils. Penrite has a specific run in oil, used it to great effect on my last few cars, but no good for DPF cars!

    It always comes down to peak combustion pressure, so you want lots of foot to the floor, but at lower speeds, higher loads so both revs and speed are kept within reason. No point revving the tits off it, nor flogging the brakes, tranny etc, so my belief is pick a hilly route, spend lots of time one gear too high, and lots of foot to the floor max efforts making the engine labour - peak engine pressures forcing the rings against the bore. Accelerating up a hill from 20-30kph in third as an example.

    Worst thing to do is drive home from the dealer at a constant speed on the highway, you need to vary it as much as possible.

    The law of diminishing returns applies, and the meat of the effect happens in the first few hundred kms, but a diesel isn't totally run in for many tens of thousands "apparently".

    Google "motoman run in" if you want the method I swear by, and I've yet to have a bad result from following it.
    Last edited by Greg Roles; 02-04-2012 at 09:10 PM.
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

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