"Running In oil" and normal oil.

[gldgti]

there are really only 2 types of oil in the world -

oils with friction modifiers.

oils without friction modifiers.

some car manufacturers specify a specific oil to use - it may have friction modifiers, suited to the engine components that they used - e.g. specific alloy combinations etc.

basically, there is only a couple of rules that you need to go by to get the best out of your car.

running in oil, is oil without friction modifiers. this may be sold specifically, from a dealer, otherwise it is - all penrite oils, all pennzoil oils, and a couple of other select brands.

generally all other oils have modifiers.

if you use an oil without friction modifiers, with a vehicle like a VW, merc, bmw, volvo, etc - european baes manufacturers, you will have a long and happy motoring life with your engine.

oils with modifiers will only make a difference to the service interval you should use, and only if the modifiers are suited to the engine components.

all of this is NOT to say that all engine oils are created equal - they are clearly NOT.

the main thing to take from this is:

1. change your oil more regularly than necessary
2. use a good quality oil
3. don't change oil brands too often - try to stick to one that works well.
4. DO IT YOURSELF so you know what goes in and what comes out!

[jets]

Does this apply to TDI engines with unit injectors & extreme pressure on the cams?

[Transporter]

Be very careful what oil you use in VW unit injector TDi.
Only VW approved oils otherwise you ruin your valve train components.
Watch out oils made to VW specs or similar statement don’t have to be VW approved.

[gldgti]

Does this apply to TDI engines with unit injectors & extreme pressure on the cams?

not necessarily - like i said - a specific oil with specific modifiers may be used for a specific application, so i wouldnt go changing from something specified in the manual.

- to further qualify -

this stuff applies to older diesels, and i'm not gonna say it applies to anything PD (unit injectors) because I dont know what the mechanical operation of these systems is like.

[95vr6]

The only oil to use in VW Pump Duse diesels is Castrol SLX longlife 2 VW506 spec

[Oneofthegreats]

This subject has come up a few times & I've expressed my opinion's on this several times.

I reckon that this subject is all dependant on what type of engine.

I've built several hotty engine's & the only running-in oil I use & recommend is lawn mower oil. Straight 30W! Believe or not but this is what alot of top engine builder's use here in OZ & the States.

You only run it for about 500km's, then dump it. The reason is that it dosen't break down & maintain's consistancy through out the heat range.

More on the subject is I don't really believe in running-in procedure's of new engine's, rather lean on them from the get go.

After all, the only thing you running-in is the cam (if it's new aftermarket) & the piston ring's.
The harder you lean on it, the greater the cyl. pressure which aid's in & along with piston ring spring tension bedding in the ring's into the cyl. bore thus sealing much faster.
If you take it easy, the sealing process take's alot longer & isn't as effective & can sometimes glaze the bore surface.

You also have to make sure that your mixture's & tune is spot on. If it's too rich you can glaze the bore, basically smoothing out the hone surface not allowing the ring to seal properly. If this does happen, the only way to rectify it, is to rehone the bore's.

[gregozedobe]

The only oil to use in VW Pump Duse diesels is Castrol SLX longlife 2 VW506 spec

Not from what I've read. VW seem to have made things very confusing for us TDI owners.

If you have a TDI with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter), then you should use a VW 507.00 oil (look in your owner's manual). You can use 507.00 in all recent VW TDIs EXCEPT for the 5cyl and V10 TDIs (Transporters and Touregs) without DPF, which MUST use 506.01 (it has some additive which protects cams/followers). The later 5cyl motors have different (better ?) treatment to the cams/followers, so they are OK for 507.00

TDIs with a DPF need a low SAPS oil to prevent fouling of the DPF. 507.00 is low SAPS, 506.01 is not.

Bottom line, only use the oil listed in your owner's manual.

Hope that clears things up a bit (based on info from a VW UK tech person on the Brickworks T5 group)

[Preen59]

This subject has come up a few times & I've expressed my opinion's on this several times.

I reckon that this subject is all dependant on what type of engine.

I've built several hotty engine's & the only running-in oil I use & recommend is lawn mower oil. Straight 30W! Believe or not but this is what alot of top engine builder's use here in OZ & the States.

You only run it for about 500km's, then dump it. The reason is that it dosen't break down & maintain's consistancy through out the heat range.

More on the subject is I don't really believe in running-in procedure's of new engine's, rather lean on them from the get go.

After all, the only thing you running-in is the cam (if it's new aftermarket) & the piston ring's.
The harder you lean on it, the greater the cyl. pressure which aid's in & along with piston ring spring tension bedding in the ring's into the cyl. bore thus sealing much faster.
If you take it easy, the sealing process take's alot longer & isn't as effective & can sometimes glaze the bore surface.

You also have to make sure that your mixture's & tune is spot on. If it's too rich you can glaze the bore, basically smoothing out the hone surface not allowing the ring to seal properly. If this does happen, the only way to rectify it, is to rehone the bore's.

Very true. Also, if you don't put a decent load on the rings, when you get blow-by, that can cause excessive heat on the ring, causing them to lose tension, and once that happens there's no second chances.

The reason non-friction modified oils allow the rings to bed faster, is because they allow the bore to 'cut' the ring much easier and not skid over the top.

Some cams don't have to be run in because of the hardening process, although it doesn't hurt to bump it up to 1500-2000rpm for 5-10 mins when you first fire it up to be safe. Nothing worse than building a nice new thumper and the lobes chipping short ofter you start using it...

[Spoddy]

Not from what I've read. VW seem to have made things very confusing for us TDI owners.

If you have a TDI with a DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter), then you should use a VW 507.00 oil (look in your owner's manual). You can use 507.00 in all recent VW TDIs EXCEPT for the 5cyl and V10 TDIs (Transporters and Touregs) without DPF, which MUST use 506.01 (it has some additive which protects cams/followers). The later 5cyl motors have different (better ?) treatment to the cams/followers, so they are OK for 507.00

TDIs with a DPF need a low SAPS oil to prevent fouling of the DPF. 507.00 is low SAPS, 506.01 is not.

Bottom line, only use the oil listed in your owner's manual.

Hope that clears things up a bit (based on info from a VW UK tech person on the Brickworks T5 group)

Have a look at my post at he bottom of page 6 here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...?t=6351&page=6

Is it just me that is confused or are we all

[gregozedobe]

Have a look at my post at he bottom of page 6 here:
http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newf...?t=6351&page=6

Is it just me that is confused or are we all

Hello Spoddy, I'm not feeling at all confused, but I don't blame you for feeling like your head is spinning.

I'll give you my simple advice:

If you have a Golf TDI Use VW 507.00 oil (it is a better oil than 505.01)

It doesn't matter whether it has a DPF or not, long life servicing or fixed interval servicing, you change the oil or the dealer or an independent VW specialist does it for you.