Running in a diesel engine

[Logzy]

get it warm and flog it.

[bluey]

I found this post a good read - running in rules and description of factory run-in procedure:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...0&postcount=28

[twincamsham]

Plenty will disagree with me on this but i dont believe there is any real need to run in a diesel engine,
The most important thing is the first service as the swarf from machining when it was made ends up in the oil and filter.

The first service would actually be the second oil change the engine has ever had.

I did my time in an engine shop and we used run the engines hard on the dyno after a rebuild, You have to anticipate the stupidist customer possible!

After running you drain the oil and discard it, Then if its to be fitted back into a vehicle its common practise to refill the oil or send it out dry in a crate.

Manufacturers such as VW would put every engine on the redline on the dyno for hours before it leaves the engine shop it would be nearly glowing red hot! only then would it get the tick of approval and signed off, this would be the case with most manufacturers.

This is so the little old dear in -30 alaska or +50 kuwait can drive around in 1st gear at 6500Rpm for weeks in her brand new polo because she thought it was an automatic until her grandsons ears started to bleed !!

Iv just bought a new T5 4motion and i drove it as hard as possible on the journey up from melb to QLd. i think cars broken in slowly make a sticky lazy engine so im a firm believer in this. they may have been on a dyno during test but nothing gives them a workout like real roads and different air temps etc so never be afraid to spare that pedal!

[Preen59]

I have to agree with you dude.

But i do believe that running in initially is a good idea. It's mainly a safety thing in my opinion, just to make sure that it's right. It's a comfort thing. However, running them hard initially is definitely the way to go.

[swingn]

Seems to be a fair varition in regards to wearing in the TDI motors.

When I collected my Caddy last week the dealer mentioned there was no need to have a run in period. Now, I'm never one to trust a dealer, but from some of the comments it appears there may have been some truth in it.

Have had a read of this guide (http://vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum...hlight=running) & am trying to put it to good use

One thing I'm unclear on, is how do you know the engine is warm (Caddy manuals have no temp gauage ). Even on a full cold start, revs do not change

[gregozedobe]

One thing I'm unclear on, is how do you know the engine is warm (Caddy manuals have no temp gauage ). Even on a full cold start, revs do not change

Not having a temperature guage makes it difficult. If it is a TDI engine I would guess (not know) that you could work on 5 minutes of normal driving in summer, and 10 minutes in winter (a bit less if it is working harder). A petrol engine would neeed a bit less time to be properly warmed up.

Idle revs are electronically controlled, the only time they should vary is when the DPF is being regenerated.

[swingn]

Not having a temperature guage makes it difficult. If it is a TDI engine I would guess (not know) that you could work on 5 minutes of normal driving in summer, and 10 minutes in winter (a bit less if it is working harder). A petrol engine would neeed a bit less time to be properly warmed up.

Idle revs are electronically controlled, the only time they should vary is when the DPF is being regenerated.

Thanks for that mate!

Spaces me out that the manual Caddy TDI doesn't come with a temp gauage... Pretty sure the DSG model does though

[freebo]

hey guys, Do you still need to do this with new TDI as I'm getting a gold TDI and want to know what to do ?

thanks

[bluey]

I understand all diesel engines gradually improve their compression pressure over 20,000km+. Factory run-in procedure is designed to be good enough given they can't run in an engine on the dyno that long. Engines appear to benefit from higher ring loadings when running in and there is no harm and potential benefit from following guidelines suggested elsewhere - I like the TDI club post I referred to earlier in this thread.

[oracle1]

the lycoming flat four aircraft engine produces 150-200 hp at aprrox 2600 rpm. In the run in manual it specifically states that any engine burning large amounts of oil after the break in period because it has glazed bores due to running an engine BELOW the recommended power settings 75 to 100 percent duty cycle will not have its warranty claim accepted especially in Rotary Wing aircraft subjected to long periods of hover at inappropriate power settings. Seen it happen 3 times to 50,000 dollar overhauled engines. Lesson don' t go stupid but make that baby work.