I bought a Volkswagen so I like to keep it a Volkswagen.(within reason) I've seen many stuffed Golf engines caused by non genuine parts.
Oh...Now I'm feeling guilty! I do in fact buy local. John Hall in Devonport has sourced heaps of stuff for me. He's a workshop and not a VW dealer but he's a great guy and looks after VW enthusiasts.Originally Posted by brackie
I bought a Volkswagen so I like to keep it a Volkswagen.(within reason) I've seen many stuffed Golf engines caused by non genuine parts.
fair call but if you know that the part works and doesnt do damage to the engine why not?? some aftermarket parts are better quality and are better for the engine than some genuine parts
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
IF you know that they are better then OK. They're usually not though. Things like oil filters are a false economy and the price is nearly the same between genuine and OEM.
oil filters i agree with buying genuine.. or a high quality aftermarket... but aftermarket is becoming risky nowadays with all this chinese **** flooding the marketOriginally Posted by syncro
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
Interesting how this topic has digressed! I agree with comments about genuine/non-genuine, I try to stick to OEM or genuine. Also checking the VW dealer price is often a good idea, although they don't carry much for 25 year old golfs anymore!
But back to the topic....
I've wired the glow plugs to the battery so I can operate them manually, and also connected the stop solenoid to the battery. I think these two eliminate any electrical problems, however still no go!
I've read on an american web site about priming the fuel pump with ATF - anyone tried this?
Thanks!
Atf won't hurt your pump in the short term. However.... what reason do you have to believe there's no diesel in the pump body? You said that you are getting diesel at the injectors at turnover. This wouldn't happen if the pump was full of air. I'm beginning to think that the problem may lie in fuel supply. There should be a clear plastic hose from your fuel filter to the pump. Are there air bubbles in this? How long since you put in a new filter? When the motor turns over does it fire at all? If you need to prime the pump you must do it by putting clean diesel into the outlet banjo. Alternatively, you can suck diesel through the pump by applying a vacuum to the same. Have you tried tow starting the car?
I think I've eliminated the electrical side of things, so I'm turning my attention back to the fuel. I am getting some fuel at the injectors - but maybe it's not enough? My fuel line isn't clear plastic, it's solid rubber, so I can't see if there are air bubbles. I have a non-standard CAV filter system, which first has a glass bowl water trap where the fuel filter normally goes, and then a CAV fuel filter by the windscreen washer bottle.
I'll try a new filter, current one has served around 3,000km, and I'll also get a new primary filter that sits in the fuel tank.
It's uphill from my garage to the road, and not many big hills around, but will try towing if I'm still stuck!
Thanks again - I'll post when I have an update...
Don't suppose water could have got in during the recent wet weather? Drop the glass bowl and see what you get out. (Water doesn't combust too well!) I'm still not convinced it's low compression that's the culprit. I've had engines on their last legs that would still start. I'd strongly recommend clear plastic lines both in and out of the filter. You can see straight away if there's any air. The primary fillter in the tank can cause problems. Hopefully you don't have any fungi growing in there! I had that problem back in WA and had to clean the tank and the whole system out. Black, gooey stuff.
i've had a similar problem with mine on occasions, which was always resolved by tow starting.
I use an aftermarket (i imagine all of you wincing) filter, with 2 - count em - 2 little clear plastic $2 filters that you get from a box at supercheap auto. the 2 filters go infront of the main filter to get rid of any nasties before they go and clog up my nice $20 dollar filter
the 2 plastic ones are in parallel too - this slows the flow rate so that water, black gooey crud and other non fuel deposites dont actually get stuck in the filter - they sit in the bottom of the plastic housing where you can look at em.
anyway, if you've ruled out electrical problems, then definately give it a good prime and try a tow start. you can also try loosening the injector lines to rid each line of air - air bubbles seem to like to stay present and often air will be immovable trapped in the solid lines. you just back off a couple of the lines at a time by a turn or tow (so they are actually loose.) when you crank it you should find fuel dribbling out allover your injectors (ahh well, never mind the mess)
good luck
aydan
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