Rattly DMF... and cost....

[nutttr]

Looks like i've got a rattly DMF (Dual mass flywheel! Golf TDI 2005 2L Man.). Usually only happens for 10-20 seconds at idle when cold and stops as soon as I put the clutch in, then generally doesn't make the sound again till the next day.

How long will it last from now? I do usually drive 'spiritedly', so I don't labour the engine!

Clutch feels very good still, but I imagine I should do both DMF and clutch at the same time. I'm not fussed if I have to put a single mass flywheel on, given the price difference is allegedly huge. VW has said about 2.5k to do a clutch alone, then a DMF on top of that! Even on a euro car 2.5k for a clutch is pretty insane and given that cost, I may even do it myself if ASV can source a kit for it...

Has anyone else to had to replace the DMF/clutch? How much have you paid (and where?). I'm in Sydney!

Thanks,
Aaron

[ST33VI]

i recently did a clutch on a audi a4 with a dmf, the dmf from audi was 1400 but we got one from hsy who direct import parts for 450ish, problem being they mainly wholesale and sell to trade, although u can give them a try 8339 8339

[nutttr]

Cheers!

Got a quote from a parts importer today for a Sachs clutch kit, DMF and release arm and it was about 1500. Installation should be about 600 according to another place I called.

Should it take about 5hrs to install it?

[h100vw]

I have done the much same job on a 1998 A3T, replaced dmf with solid. Took me about 4 hours on the drive with trolley jacks and stuff. A garage should be able to do it in under 5 hours I reckon. Depends how familiar they are with Golfs I guess.

Gavin

[gldgti]

i know $400 is $400 at the end of the day, but VW do the job all the time, so they shouldnt muck it up. On the other hand, a clutch job is just a clutch job and if you're savvy and have the tools then save yourself a grand. I would. I do.

[nutttr]

I'm tempted! But for 600 labour, i'm thinking of just leaving the hassle to someone else

[nutttr]

The cheapest solution is to get a new flywheel/clutch/release bearing from ASV spares and get your local 'european specialist' to install the whole lot for around the 600 mark. That way you get it done 'cheap'. Clutch feels massively better now and there's no more shudder/chatter when turning off the engine and it starts easier too. I've got the old DMF and it has a 'wobble' the flywheel surface isn't actually 'solid' any more, it has lateral movement and it is also quite easy to partially press the spring inside it around by hand! It has about 4cm or so 'turn' in it before it hits the spring. The clutch wasn't worn out, but it was a LUK unit and it has about 7 springs in it with a plastic piece around them all that is quite loose and definitely makes a rattly sound like it is loose. The new clutch only has 3 springs and a different pressure plate design.

[jfoldbar]

some say that labouering the motor wears the dmf. i have a '04 transporter t5. 2.5 tdi. it has a dmf. i could be accused of being a bit of a grandpa behind the wheel and have always got the thing almost stalling. i dont think anything of doing 70 up hills in top gear 1000rpm. ive done 170k and as yet ive never had any clutch problems. mayby im just lucky with that. any thoughts?

[Transporter]

some say that labouering the motor wears the dmf. i have a '04 transporter t5. 2.5 tdi. it has a dmf. i could be accused of being a bit of a grandpa behind the wheel and have always got the thing almost stalling. i dont think anything of doing 70 up hills in top gear 1000rpm. ive done 170k and as yet ive never had any clutch problems. mayby im just lucky with that. any thoughts?

Lucky. But most likely it needs the combination of more evil thing the one need to do to it, to cause DMF to fail. Also, you maybe speed too soon. Once you have done 250,000km + and fitted a new clutch without replacing the DMF, then I would say, you've done well.

Frequent quick take offs are probably the worst.

Is yours 128kW?


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