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Thread: Noob needs his engine identified

  1. #1
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    Question Noob needs his engine identified

    Hi All,'

    New to diesel with my new used Jetta. When I bought it a week ago I was under the impression I had a common rail engine. Now after reading this forum extensively I am no longer 100% on that. Can someone with an eye for such things positively id mine please.

    2007 Jetta Tdi (April)


  2. #2
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    That's a PD engine mate, no CR diesels available in 2007 anyhow.

    With the sheer number of CR high pressure fuel pumps failing right now in the USA, and the number of CR engines going due to the slightest fuel contamination, I'd be glad you have PD. CR is a great idea, but very fragile.
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

  3. #3
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    Thread Starter
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Roles View Post
    That's a PD engine mate, no CR diesels available in 2007 anyhow.

    With the sheer number of CR high pressure fuel pumps failing right now in the USA, and the number of CR engines going due to the slightest fuel contamination, I'd be glad you have PD. CR is a great idea, but very fragile.
    Thanks Cogdoc.

    From readings your tinkering threads and a few other important/sticky threads here (having not done any work for days) I kinda got the impression that the PD engines are tougher. That suits me just fine.

    I want to keep my engine in the best possible condition for fuel economy and longevity, not necessarily performance. Sounds like I have the engine for that. I have a heap more questions but I need to frame them properly in another tinkering thread.

    Pax

  4. #4
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    Run only BP or caltex "ultimate" diesel.
    Get a good oil catch can system onto your car between the parts circled.



    Have the inlet flushed out by either VW or using the specific intake flush products every 50000k at least.
    Use only 507 spec oils and consider 7500k changes for oil and filter.
    Renew the air filter element more often.
    Put some "Fuel Doctor" from supercheap through the car every several thousand kms.
    Keep your tyres at the correct pressures.
    Keep the car clear of heavy stuff, that is, don't leave the boot full of "stuff".
    Last edited by Greg Roles; 30-10-2010 at 02:45 PM.
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

  5. #5
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    Thread Starter

    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Roles View Post
    Run only BP or caltex "ultimate" diesel.
    All the deisel in my area of Vic comes from the Shell refinery at Gelong. No choice here.

    Get a good oil catch can system onto your car between the parts circled.
    I have been reading the various threads on this and am thinking of the Mann ProVent 200. Is this still the current thinking or is a more standard but well built catch can?

    Have the inlet flushed out by either VW or using the specific intake flush products every 50000k at least.
    My Jetta has 62,000 on the clock and has never been cleaned (judging my the service book) and my nearest VW dealership is 3 hours drive away. There are plenty of good diesel mechanics around here and I have posted a question in another VWW forum for recommendations in my area of Vic, I would like to learn to do it myself if I can find a good pictorial strip down of my engine model.

    What flush products are recommended?

    Use only 507 spec oils and consider 7500k changes for oil and filter.
    Yup, gonna learn to do that myself too because that I drive about 3,000, sometimes 4,000 km a month.

    Renew the air filter element more often.
    I have been thinking, after reading your thread of a pod filter like the modshack.

    Put some "Fuel Doctor" from supercheap through the car every several thousand kms.
    I'll go looking for that. I assume this is an injector cleaner?

    Keep your tyres at the correct pressures.
    34psi. My local tyre mechanic is a VW fan, drives a MkIV GTI

    Keep the car clear of heavy stuff, that is, don't leave the boot full of "stuff".
    Standard practice. I only have a first aid and emergency kit in the boot.


    Thanks for the input. Great stuff.

  6. #6
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    Shell diesel is the third choice, simply trying to say avoid the basic Woolies etc no name brand diesels.

    There is a thread in this diesel section on cleaning out the EGR with a wynns product done by Buller Scott. You'll have to search a few pages, but it can't be far back.

    Provent is the best one I've yet found, but with a similarily big pricetag about $220. 2nd choice would be a BSH, 42DD or similar depending on cost and internal "maze" which is what it all comes down to really. The 42DD one is about $159 and I can sell you one of those, but if you want the absolute best it's the Provent for the TDI's. Allards in the UK have some nice looking CNC'd cans at pretty darn cheap prices, but they are just that, a can, and you really need a maze to catch the oil droplets out of the blowby. This is where the Provent excels, being purpose built for industry.

    I'd stick with the stock airbox if you want longevity, there's no power to be had here on an otherwise stock car. A bit more response, but only if truly sealed to the outside. If you really want to do something, try and pick up an aFe intake, which is the best bolt up but still looks stock / solves the inlet problems out there.

    Fuel doctor is a cleaner, but also an algae killer. Diesel can get a bacterial "bug" and infest your tank, and the actual algae clumps cause the problems when they get sent through your fuel system.There are a few products out there that do the same thing, I just like the algae killing idea and price of Fuel Doctor.
    Last edited by Greg Roles; 30-10-2010 at 03:08 PM.
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

  7. #7
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    Here is the shortcut to http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f28/...ads-36777.html you should find there "how to decode vehicle sticker" that will tell you what engine and other options are in your car (if it's not there, then there is a thread in Tiguan section "how to track your car..." post #2).

  8. #8
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    Thanks transporter, I kinda picked my way through that thread and may have missed the decode link. I think we have gone off topic now anyway.

    Cogdoc, Cheers for you input.

    I want to learn how to look after my car so nothing like jumping in at the deep end. I will do some more research on stripping down my intake and cleaning it myself. Nothing like an excuse to by some more tools.

    I will go with the Provent. 260 odd bucks is chicken feed for a preventative measure that may cost me a lot more in the long run.

    I'll have a look in my area for Fuel Doctor, theres a SCA at Horsham.

    I will postpone any thoughts on a new intake as there are other mods I want to do. Here's my list so far.

    1. Provent
    2. Clean Intake
    3. TM Tune slimline DRL's
    4. New audio (Pioneer Digital Media Head Unit)
    5. Some interior refinement.

    pax

    PS. Man this is addictive.

  9. #9
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    It can get out of hand, trust me

    Welcome to the diesel gang!
    2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

  10. #10
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    Hi Guys,

    I'm in a similar spot to InMused... I have a 2008 Skoda OctyII RS TDI, for a long time now I was sure my engine was a PD+DPF but I looked in the front cover of my service book to decode my options and noticed it says "1Z551C OCT.COM CRDPF RS"

    Now I'm not sure... is it PD or CR? It's not that important to me, but it'd be nice to know.

    EDIT:Thanks
    Last edited by Madhatter_jc; 04-11-2010 at 11:02 AM. Reason: typo

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