Newbie to Diesel, need some advices

[ox518]

Hi All, just got my Skoda Scout 103TDI last week, love it to bit although it is a bit noise than my old TSI. After reading through a few threads I have a few questions here need your help.

1. I read run in procedure topic that suggests I need to drive the TDI bit rough, do not baby it; however, mine is DSG, it is a bit hard to control it to over 3000rpm unless floor it. I may use manual mode to achieve that rpm???

2. What diesel should I use? We don't have BP ultimate in ACT，does the normal Diesel from BP still good compare to Shell and Caltex?

3. I do a lot 80k/h every week so I assume I should not have any issue with DPF. Anything I need to be aware on this issue?

4. Just general tips how to maintain a diesel engine.

Sorry too many questions.

Thanks in advance.

ricky

[Transporter]

I run in our 2 Tiguans in the S mode once the engine reached 80 deg. C. IMO, there is not need to rev the engine much over 3500 rpm. Just make sure you let the engine decelerate as well.

Caltex Premium or Shell would be my choice if there was no BP.

As far as the maintenance go, there are many tips and suggestions in the various threads. I personaly like to change engine oil every 6 months or 7500km; clean oil, less engine wear, less soot in the DPF.

[ox518]

Thanks Transporter, using S mode does make sense to me. So far I have done 350km with average 2500rpm taking off once the engine warm up. Will try S mode from now on to run in. So at least to do it for first 1500km?

[THE_EGG]

Regarding DPF, try to run it higher revving (change up at 3000-3500rpm) one trip a week to clean out the DPF. As far as fuel is concerned I think Caltex has a low sulphur fuel with anti-foaming agent called Caltex Vortex Diesel (Caltex equivalent of BP ultimate diesel). But yeh once the engine has warmed up use S mode for the first few thousand km's. Every car (and engine for that matter) is different to how long it takes to wear in.

[Jase]

Welcome to the Land of Diesel Ricky. I've gone black & never going back

I have have a preference for regular BP diesel. I haven't been able to justify the extra cost of Caltex Vortex or BP Ultimate.

Your travel on 80 click roads is good for the DPF & for general running-in as you can stick the boot in a bit more when getting underway. I would leave the DSG in D, not S, nor manual mode.

My run in procedure is:

• First 200km (think hills): Cold engine gear changes at 2500rpm, warm engine gear changes at 3000rpm. Travel the long way up & down hills, not the short or fast way along freeways or highways, to heat cycle the cylinders somewhat (they get hot on acceleration, cool down when coasting).
• 200-1500km (think hills & city driving): Cold engine gear changes at 2500rpm, warm engine gear changes at 4000rpm. More deliberate heat cycling of cylinders, city driving with stop & go (I mean between intersections not congested traffic). Avoid steady rpm & idling.
• 1500-4000km: Drive normally. Utilise full rpm (occasional smooth 100% rpm to redline okay)

Gives my wife the irrits but I insist that cruise control isn't used until 4000km ticks over to assist with natural variance of throttle & a reminder to change speeds a little bit.

Yes as you mentioned Ricky, with a DSG you need to put the boot in to get decent gear changes at a higher rpm.
In my mind the first 2000km is the most important. Not sure what your km's are but don't fret too much about it. I guess once it's warm, as a general rule, don't be afraid to push the pedal down 80% & make an effort to travel via hilly areas when possible.

With my old Jetta, I wanted to maximise cylinder compression & never wanted the situation where I needed regular or occasion oil top-ups due to something that I could have avoided. I came up with the short-list above from a few gurus here, on the Briskoda forum & myturbodiesel.com. Over three years with 85,000km I never once needed to top up with oil & the above seemingly worked for me. I've got 800km on my new Skoda in this first week & I am happy to follow the above once again - I feel I am doing the right thing & hopefully there is some benefit from the sometimes deliberate or awkward travel decisions associated with it.

[wfdTamar]

Wait for the glow plug symbol on the left gauge to go out (or even a second or two longer) before trying to start it. Let it idle for 10-30 seconds before turning off. Both these seem to make it start first pop.

Don't let it sit when first started to 'warm it up' as diesels don't warm when idling. Just drive off straight away (take it easy until it's at normal temperate).

I think a lot of this is in the owners manual and nothing new.

[ox518]

Thanks everyone, so far I have done 2200km with one trip up to Syd about 700km return. Just one more question here, how do I know if the run in procedure is completed? Is there any hint?

Cheers,
Ricky

[Idle]

Thanks everyone, so far I have done 2200km with one trip up to Syd about 700km return. Just one more question here, how do I know if the run in procedure is completed? Is there any hint?

Don't think so — most diesels take longer to run in than petrol motors, but at 2200km you could regard it as ready for normal work.

Hopefully you'll have made it work fairly hard already — they don't really need to be babied any more, in fact they seem to last longer if they're not.

[AlexRO]

Don't think so — most diesels take longer to run in than petrol motors, but at 2200km you could regard it as ready for normal work.

Hopefully you'll have made it work fairly hard already — they don't really need to be babied any more, in fact they seem to last longer if they're not.

this is very true .. I had a diesel freak take my car for a spin at 28k km's and he laughed at me and said it hasnt even been broken in yet, and that it was still a baby

long live the diesel

[aware]

Great thread - I assume this procedure is the same on the 125 TDI?