Modshack experience & questions.

[getjet]

Hi all,

Today i received and installed my modshack intake on my MkV (see below).



Installation was relatively simple but required some minor modding to fit the TDI. The modshack is not technically designed for TDI's and as such, does not include the vacuum connector that is on the stock system. To overcome this, I drilled and installed a vacuum connector (see below). It goes to the solenoid valve block so i cant tell what valve it goes to. Can anyone advise as to what this does? Do you think that it is ok how it is plumbed or should i use an elbow rather than a T piece connector? It was the only connector i had at the time...



The car seems to breathe much easier and feels a bit snappier. My only gripe would be the occasional stutter at low speed. I suspect it is due to the possibility of sucking in hot engine air as, unlike the stock intake, it is not plumbed into the front bumper (see below).



I haven't had a look at how Greg has done it yet but i plan on buying an aluminium tube and make my own plumbing (see below). Its actually for flues in fireplaces but it is essentially a thin aluminium tube that i hope to cut and bang so that the pod only draws in cold air from the front grill. Any thoughts on this?

[mikinoz]

Very nice. I was the first to install one of these I'm Australia, assisting Rennenhaus and Modshack in working out if it were a viable product for the TDI.

With dyno testing it proved to not increase power output but the smoothness in power delivery was very obvious.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/foru...ype-14111.html

Before



After



In the end I took it off due to the induction noise giving me a gripe, and then sold the car before I had a chance to put it back on. I'd do it again.

My vac line did not have a t piece so can't offer up much help on that.

Nice to see someone tinkering with a diesel again.

[Greg Roles]

Nice work. The small line is the turbo solenoid bleed line, and if you block it you will have all sorts of woe, as I did! It dumps the pressure on the negative side of the solenoid which actuates the VNT vanes in the exhaust turbine.

Stuttering is a problem a few have reported, although I have not experienced the same. May be you lot in colder climates just get too much cold air for the MAF to cope with, a problem not so apparent in QLD. Making your own plumbing for the inlet is quite easy, and if you can get the scoop off the front of a Forge unit, would make it a lot simpler, not sure if they would sell you just the scoop. I made my own fiberglass front, but that's a major project to get right, messy too! Sealing the front is a great idea, but makes it even louder outside!

Now you can pull the MAF grid out, and help the airflow a little more!

[getjet]

Stuttering is a problem a few have reported, although I have not experienced the same. May be you lot in colder climates just get too much cold air for the MAF to cope with, a problem not so apparent in QLD. Making your own plumbing for the inlet is quite easy, and if you can get the scoop off the front of a Forge unit, would make it a lot simpler, not sure if they would sell you just the scoop. I made my own fiberglass front, but that's a major project to get right, messy too! Sealing the front is a great idea, but makes it even louder outside!

Now you can pull the MAF grid out, and help the airflow a little more!

At the moment, the car overboosts and stutters with a modified tune so i think the intake might be exaggerating an existing issue. Further investigation is required.

Im trying to get a hold of a new MAF to test that if the stuttering improves, but even if its not, i wouldn't mind gutting it as suggested and a spare MAF would allow me to confidently do it.

Next on the chopping block would be the solenoid valve block! In my first pic, you can see it to the left of where the battery meets the firewall. For some reason, VW decided to put all the valves in an interchangeable block. It would have been great if i could have jsut swapped the n75! The issue is that VW Aus wants $400+ for a replacement for the block.

[benough]

Yeah my Modshack had a bit of a stutter when it was cold. You should de grid your MAF now you have a straight though airflow.

That should do the trick.

---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:41 PM ----------

Also Forge won't sell you a metal mount. I've asked.

[getjet]

Yeah my Modshack had a bit of a stutter when it was cold. You should de grid your MAF now you have a straight though airflow.

That should do the trick.

---------- Post added at 12:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:41 PM ----------

Also Forge won't sell you a metal mount. I've asked.

So by removing the grid in your MAF, your stutter stopped?

Ive just tested the MAF based on the guide at Testing and diagnosing a bad MAF sensor on VW TDI

First up was to rev it to 5.1k in neutral. It did it no problem but according to the website above, it could still be faulty.

Second was to disconnect the connector. Took it for a drive and there was no stuttering. Power does not seem to be down but i don't really want to go WOT with the connector off. What are the consequences? I then put the connector back and drove the same route home. It stuttered. The interesting thing was that no engine lights came on at any point...

Either way, i think replacing and de-gridding the MAF will be a good place to start.

[benough]

So you drove it without the MAF connected?

Well I ended up on a BMC intake from a GTI and it didn't stutter but my de gridding was just a suggestion. It's worth a shot

[getjet]

So you drove it without the MAF connected?

Well I ended up on a BMC intake from a GTI and it didn't stutter but my de gridding was just a suggestion. It's worth a shot

Correct. For a couple of minutes it was disconnected but didn't push the car at all. No CEL and power appeared to be the same. Apparently, thats a sign of a faulty MAF...

[benough]

Potetnially. I disconnected mine one day to see what happened and straight away it wasn't happy.

De grid it and if they fixes it great, if not then get a new MAF from ebay. Put the part number on the side of it into ebay and save money

[getjet]

After disconnecting the MAF a couple of times to test, there is indeed less power when disconnected. As such, at this stage I'm satisfied that my issues are not related to a faulty MAF. I plan on still trying to get a spare so that i can de-grid it and test.

Could a partially blocked EGR cause stuttering?