great to see you back into it mate![]()
Well a long overdue update to my thread. I've been sidetracked doing some house reno's and moving the new missus into the place, don't fret though, she knows I like to tinker!!
Here's pics of the turbo to IC stock pipe. Spent quite a time getting this bast%$d out, definately would be much easier to take out the radiator fans and or starter motor first, but I was determined to work it out and I got there. Removed it from below. You can see it's a bit nasty, harsh bends and mashing, but what is interesting is even though I was pretty careful to measure it, my planned 2" replacement pipe is still slightly smaller overall. You can see the difference in the comparison photo, the stock pipe is only a mm or so larger internally at the ends, but it is bigger. The photo looks worse than it is. The smooth inner contours of my 2" stuff should make up that difference though, but apart from smoother bends, the upgrade here isn't going to be that significant in my opinion. I've got it mocked up downstairs now and cut to suit, just need to get some edge beads rolled and it's in. Yipee!
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Last edited by Greg Roles; 17-08-2010 at 07:52 PM.
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
great to see you back into it mate![]()
VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
I'm also at the point of putting the Wayne angle block into the exhaust to remove the O2 sensor from the flow, and to block off the EGR entirely. If this works like it's supposed to, then I can put in the IC to manifold 2.5" section, where the flow difference will be more significant. For now I'll have my QTP "flap" doing nothing, but I'm working on a controller coupled to ignition. The stock EGR flap and EGR valve will have to remain plugged in and hanging in the engine bay, until I look into getting them simulated / coded out. That's a must!
On the exhaust side of things I have a stuffed DPF on it's way to me, which will be my next victim, and I picked up this awesome APR muff for $50 off e-bay. I think I'll go with this baby over the aforementioned Aero muffler, for as awesome looking as it is, it's hard to toss up something that is proven to flow well and drop the resonance at the right frequency. I want power, but drone, well no thanks!
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Last edited by Greg Roles; 17-08-2010 at 08:00 PM.
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
Good to see some updates. Esp on the "mod friendly" lady-front
So you're going to gut out the inside of the DPF and see how it goes? It'd be great if it worked. I'm sure dead DPF's won't be expensive!
i think greg's lying....
''tinker friendly missus" and ''last posted in june" just dont add up
good to see you back! for the sake of all us burninators who are following your legendary tinkering, greg, FIGHT THE THUMB, dont let it win!!!
Geez mate, to keep chickies happy you have to do some stuff for them! Since my last post I did turn my crappy rumpus into a girlie home office, doesn't just happen in a day you know!
Anyhoo, back to the important stuff, here's the turbo to IC roughly fabbed up in place, I could make it a bit "neater" looking, but I've tried to keep the bends nice and smooth all in the aim of flow. Also, the last pic is the IC to manifold roughly fabbed up on the bench, and this goes in once I spend several days fault free with no EGR. Just need to get the lambda probe out, it's in a tricky spot, no doubt VW has a special tool for it.
Benno, the DPF is in for a lot more than that, c'mon, as IF I'd just hollow it out...
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Last edited by Greg Roles; 18-08-2010 at 08:32 AM.
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
LOL! Well I'm keen to see what you will be doing then.
Has anyone actually tried gutting their dead one and putting it back in?
Would be fine until the first regen, where it injects extra fuel late in combustion so that it actually explodes in the DPF thus raising the temps dramatically. Add to that the fore and aft pressure sensors would register a fault straight away. It's a pretty clever piece of engineering, tricky to circumvent without coding.
2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |
Ha! I know VW would have that covered.
But why would it regen if it's not getting the backpressure from a soot level build up in there? I figured with an empty one it would never need to regen.
If the extra fuel just went straight through there might be some smoke (ugh!), but I wouldn't expect it to explode (as a rule diesel burns rather than explodes — that's why it needs such high pressures to ignite in the engine.)
Besides, I'd have thought that if one bypassed both sensors with the appropriate resistance, regen should never be triggered.
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