Let the tinkering begin...
Like Jamyz's recent post, I too have always been one to tinker with my toys.
ECU mods and similar major warranty risking options will be last on my list, if at all. I watched Ford during my time in my last FPV, go from "overlooking" modificatons, to voiding entire warranties for cat back exhausts. Ford also recently sold their warranty work to a third party insurer, and the rules changed again to even tighter.
Seems VW is currently "overlooking" the chip and tuning angle, and even my dealer principle brought it up on my test drive, but I'm wary that if enough start breaking and costing cashola, then the rules may similarily change.
Now don't get me wrong, it's not all doom and gloom, I just want to point out WHY I am doing things the way I am, and why I am bothering making minor mods that would yield bugger all HP, compared to a major, and easy mod such as a chip.
My aims are this:
1. Optimise what is already there.
2. Find the weak links.
3. Modify from there.
So I'm really keen for input from anyone out there who has played with their oiler, and can save me making too many mistakes.
1. Intake.
Straight up, the plastic VW use is beautiful to cut and file etc. A real treat.
The inlet is well designed, and has nice internal trumpets on all the inlets. Only small casting rings are evident, and thought has gone into the overall flow design. The pickup draws from the frontal high pressure area, and has an excellent splash protection design, with air flowing through the scoop and hitting the sealed airbox, with the inlet drawing from above this "flow". The bend around to the box is smooth, but does pass close to both the radiator hose, and the exhaust gas recycle tube, both probably adding heat. The filter box is well designed on the inlet side with a nice 45 degree to middle inlet style, maximising the filter area. There is a big screen in the bottom of the box, which seems unecessary given the grill on the front of the pickup. The outlet makes me wonder, being right up one end, with a lid that has reinforcing vanes across it. This then passes close to the silver injection pump? which gets pretty hot. A fairly blunt and square edged MAF? sensor comes next, before the crankcase vent joins the party just prior to the turbo.
I took off the front rubber strip on the bonnet, and used it to make a seal just around the intake. The rest I left open to allow a bit more airflow to the engine. The plastic lip covering the radiator seals against the bonnet underlay, so I removed a section of this in front of the turbo area. This is metal reinforced, so it was a bit of work to do nicely. The rear bonnet seal remains in place to force any airflow down, over the hot turbo.
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I placed a plate in the back of the splash designed inlet scoop, and only left a small, matchstick wide gap along the bottom for any water ingested. Despite the crazy weather lately in QLD, chances of major splashing are slim, so I'd rather the ram air effect. I removed the guard that partly seperates the inlet tube from the lower box, and sanded the internal trumpet smooth. Heat shielding on this curved pipe is next on the list.
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The filterbox was sanded in the bottom, and I'll run a K&N, just because I like to service it a lot. I doubt there is anymore than a fraction of a HP available here. I removed the vanes in the lid, and again sanded the trumpet smooth.
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The plastic grid that sits in the bottom of the box was sadly lost during this procedure, thus left out.
The MAF sensor had very square edges, so I shaped this assembly as aerodynamically as possible, even if that just meant removing just the hard edge. This looks a bit restrictive. This section of the inlet will also be heat shielded from the silver doobie beside it. It looks like the injection pump to me.
Bottom line it gets hot, and nothing kills a turbo's performance more than heat.
Last edited by Greg Roles; 15-03-2008 at 03:35 PM.
Reason: typo's
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