Jetta mkv TDI BKD build

[Jetta_MkV]

Hey everyone,
Just wanting to share my recent purchase of a Jetta Mkv TDI 2007 BKD manual with 158,000km from a dealer back in July. It's a very fun car to drive and very economical. A few weeks of driving after buying it, the clutch felt weird so I took it back to the dealer and they replaced both clutch and flywheel with new parts. After buying the car my 1st mod was the aftermarket ANS810 head unit. Compared to the stock head unit this unit has heaps of features! It's also has nav and rear view camera.

Current mods since July:
- GTB2060VKLR BB turbo
- Full custom exhaust system 2.5" with a varex mid muffler
- Malone tune stage 2 custom
- Darkside EGR delete pipe
- Darkside upgraded s3 intercooler
- 4bar map sensor (not installed yet)
- Clutch Masters FX350 with steel flywheel (Being installed soon)

Took 15 hours all up for my buddy to make the exhaust system and another 11 hours to install the turbo, intercooler and egr delete pipe, cleanup intake manifold and throttle body, and make the intercooler piping. The turbo is watercooled by using the radiator hoses and it always sits on 88 degrees Celsius.

1st dyno run to get logs - the car made 138kw atw @22psi and 380nm torque. The 1st tune was just to get the car running with the new setup.
2nd tune is set @26psi, the car made 150kw atw and 437nm torque.

Car is averaging 4.7-5.4L/100km daily driving around town.
Next stage of the setup is to install the clutch and max out the nozzles (around 220-240hp with supporting mods).
Got a great deal on the Bosio race r1287 nozzles that can do ~300hp. Will be getting them soon too.

The car visually hasn't been changed yet but priority is to get all the performance mods out of the way 1st and then I'll be looking at visual.

My Jetta


ANS810 head unit


GTB2060VKLR


Stock turbo vs gtb2060VKLR


Dump pipe


Varex mid muffler 2.5"


Rest of the exhaust + Y pipe






End result of the custom exhaust


Upgraded S3 Intercooler with thicker core


Turbo Installed

[gldgti]

Love your work!

I'm happy to see someone playing hardball with the diesel 4 pot. I think if I'd decided to keep my octy I would have gone down this road too.

Now I have 2 extra cylinders and .5L to play with though, and quattro to keep it in line

Very excited to see this project progress. Props to you!

[Jetta_MkV]

Nice to see you approve my work gldgti!

Yeah it took some time to get the car up to the stage it is now, hopefully I won't have to wait that long to complete the rest of it.

Clutch and BFI mounts will be installed soon, nozzles will be going in after that to achieve 300hp and just thinking of making a custom intake since fiberglass is easy to play with (if not then i'll just get a 2nd hand apr intake).

These BKD engines are so fun to play around with, "they can take a beating" according to the guys in Europe.

Good to see you have another project car to play around with Keen to see its results.

[gldgti]

just looking carefully at your turbo picture....

its looks watercooled!!!;

It looks like the oil feed is at the bottom..... is that kit for an 'upright' mounted turbo setup (like the CR engines!).

Not sure how feasible it is to re-clock the CHRA.... might be possible.

[Deadpool]

Very nice build, great to see someone pushing the limits of the Diesels.

[Jetta_MkV]

just looking carefully at your turbo picture....

its looks watercooled!!!;

It looks like the oil feed is at the bottom..... is that kit for an 'upright' mounted turbo setup (like the CR engines!).

Not sure how feasible it is to re-clock the CHRA.... might be possible.

Yeah, its watercooled. Vklr turbos rely on watercooling; my turbo has thin oil lines which don't flow enough oil to cool the turbo even if was setup for oil cooling...Well at least this is my case. Basically I'm using the radiator hoses that came off the egr cooler. I think the turbo position on the cr engine is similar to my pd engine. The amazing thing about these turbos is the stop screw it uses on the actuator to determine how much boost the turbo can run; the more the screw is screwed out, the more boost it produces. I'm aiming to get 32-34 psi (max boost) at 2500rpm and around 650nm at around 2200rpm.

[Jetta_MkV]

Very nice build, great to see someone pushing the limits of the Diesels.

Thanks! Yeah its a fun car to play around with.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[gldgti]

Yeah, its watercooled. Vklr turbos rely on watercooling; my turbo has thin oil lines which don't flow enough oil to cool the turbo even if was setup for oil cooling...Well at least this is my case. Basically I'm using the radiator hoses that came off the egr cooler. I think the turbo position on the cr engine is similar to my pd engine. The amazing thing about these turbos is the stop screw it uses on the actuator to determine how much boost the turbo can run; the more the screw is screwed out, the more boost it produces. I'm aiming to get 32-34 psi (max boost) at 2500rpm and around 650nm at around 2200rpm.

On the mk6 CBAB(???) 2.0l CR engine, the turbo is above the line of the exhaust ports (upside down from the way its shown in your picture).

Also, the stop screw on the actuator is for the vanes open (e.g. not boosting) position, and if you set it wrongly, on some turbo's the vanes can actually foul on the turbine wheel! The ECU modulates the vacuum via the N75 valve to the actuator, which controls the position of the vanes away from the stop. You wont get a certain amount of boost for a given vane position - the boost created will depend on the exhaust flow and heat, and that varies with rev's, load, fuel, and ofcourse vane position which is just changing the angle of incidence of the exhaust gasses with the turbine.

Not wanting to sound like a know it all - I just have rebuilt a couple of VNT's now and I don't want to see you ruin your new turbo

All you need to run more boost is for the ECU to ask for it, so to speak - the turbo can make more boost than you need without adjusting the stop screw. Indeed, if the vanes were fixed in the 'closed' or 'boosting' positon, and you started the car, even free revving it you could probably make 40-50psi.... who knows if the turbo would break or the head would lift, or a conrod would bend, though.

BTW - your exhaust is really nice.

[Jetta_MkV]

On the mk6 CBAB(???) 2.0l CR engine, the turbo is above the line of the exhaust ports (upside down from the way its shown in your picture).

Also, the stop screw on the actuator is for the vanes open (e.g. not boosting) position, and if you set it wrongly, on some turbo's the vanes can actually foul on the turbine wheel! The ECU modulates the vacuum via the N75 valve to the actuator, which controls the position of the vanes away from the stop. You wont get a certain amount of boost for a given vane position - the boost created will depend on the exhaust flow and heat, and that varies with rev's, load, fuel, and ofcourse vane position which is just changing the angle of incidence of the exhaust gasses with the turbine.

Not wanting to sound like a know it all - I just have rebuilt a couple of VNT's now and I don't want to see you ruin your new turbo

All you need to run more boost is for the ECU to ask for it, so to speak - the turbo can make more boost than you need without adjusting the stop screw. Indeed, if the vanes were fixed in the 'closed' or 'boosting' positon, and you started the car, even free revving it you could probably make 40-50psi.... who knows if the turbo would break or the head would lift, or a conrod would bend, though.

BTW - your exhaust is really nice.

Hey thanks for the useful information. I agree with what you are saying but here is my part of knowledge on VNT (not knocking you back either).

You only set VNT start position with the stop screw. If you set the VNT start too wide open, your turbo starts later to generate backpressure which makes the turbo spoolup at later rpm. Boost is controlled only by N75 (vanes not longer in start position).

Don't worry, my VNT is well adjusted which does not allow to have contact with the turbine, whatever I adjust.

The exhaust took a lot of my time, a few hours per day. If I had gone 3" it wouldn't have been able to fit in the rear section of the car. 2.5" exhaust for a soon-to-be 300hp car is enough

[gldgti]

Yes - we are talking the same language here - the stop screw sets the 'inactive' position for the vanes, but it doesn't affect full boost pressure.

I like the Y pipe at the rear axle, its a good solution. You have probably seen my octavia thread and the exhaust I built in there - I just managed to put that together in about 6 hours but I didn't make a new DP . I think the exhaust on the Allroad will be a much bigger job

Anyway, once again, great job!