Injector Pump Leak and movement - Main Shaft

[hvellacott]

Hi All,
I Have just discovered this brilliant forum while searching for some info on leaking Bosch injector pumps.

My 79 gld has been perfect up unitl this morning when I discovered a huge pool of diesel underneath her. Having removed the timing belt cover I could see that it was coming from the main shaft seal. After getting everything set, I took off the timing belt. I haven't been able to remove the pulley (and entire pump) yet, but I will tomorrow morning. I can feel a couple of mm of movement in the main shaft though, so I am obviously not going to get away with just replacing the seal.

Has anyone had this problem before?? Does it sound terminal for the pump?? I have heard that an overhaul costs around $1000 (more than I paid for the car!!) I am in Melbourne, can anyone recommend a diesel specialist to take the pump to for a diagnosis? Finally, if the pump is dead, how much should I pay for a second hand one?? and what, if anything, should I do with a secondhand pump before I put it on?

Many thanks,
Huw

[brackie]

Hi All,
I Have just discovered this brilliant forum while searching for some info on leaking Bosch injector pumps.

My 79 gld has been perfect up unitl this morning when I discovered a huge pool of diesel underneath her. Having removed the timing belt cover I could see that it was coming from the main shaft seal. After getting everything set, I took off the timing belt. I haven't been able to remove the pulley (and entire pump) yet, but I will tomorrow morning. I can feel a couple of mm of movement in the main shaft though, so I am obviously not going to get away with just replacing the seal.

It sounds like the bearing in the sprocket end of the shaft has failed. This is very rare and is usually caused by an over-tight belt. 1-2mm of play is a hell of a lot and I would have expected serious running problems with that much movement.

Has anyone had this problem before?? Does it sound terminal for the pump??

I've never heard of it happening on the VE pump, but I've seen it on Lucas and CAV pumps.

I have heard that an overhaul costs around $1000 (more than I paid for the car!!) I am in Melbourne, can anyone recommend a diesel specialist to take the pump to for a diagnosis? Finally, if the pump is dead, how much should I pay for a second hand one?? and what, if anything, should I do with a secondhand pump before I put it on?

One of the guys on this forum has one for sale (Tassie euro Mk1) and this may be your cheapest and easiest solution.

Whatever you do, fix it and preserve it! We have to keep as many GLDs on the road as possible!

Many thanks,
Huw[/quote]

[hiho]

Hey Brackie, how tight should the timing belt be?

[brackie]

You guessed it... VW have a special tool for measuring the tension of the belt. VW 210. I've never used one of these and have relied upon experience and common sense to get it right. Hasn't failed me (yet n: ) Perhaps one of the workshop guys (Andrew??) could give you a measurement that doesn't require the use of the tool.

[gtimk5]

A big welcome to you hvellacott. I hope you enjoy your time on the forum. I don't have any tensions on the timing belt. Have always done them by feel, no slack but at the same time not a lot of tension on them either. Sorry I can't be specific. I have an old pump here but it needs an o'haul too.
Cheers, Andrew

[hvellacott]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for your responses - I think I'll be on this forum a lot!!
Looking for replacement injector pumps - saw an entire diesel passat on ebay that could be an option (see my next thread).

I'll let you know how I go.

Thanks again,
Huw

[hiho]

To all who care (which is probably all of you)

Ive found reference to determining the timing belt tension without using the VW tool No. 210. in my haynes manual. It states:

"If the tool VW210 is not available a reasonably accurate tension on the belt (as a temporary measure) can be achieved by adjusting the belt tensioner until the belt will twist only 90 degrees when held between the finger and thumb midway between the camshaft sprocket and the fuel injection pump sprocket"

The manual also advocates home made pump locking pins and cam locking plates, as well as a nifty socket adaptor for a traditional allen key to be used with a 1/2" drive torque wrench for the head bolts. It is just a large socket with a hole drilled through each side. (remember torque = force x perpendicular distance when making/using this tool)

Hope that this can offer some piece of mind
Matt