Ill change turbo's when the car reaches 100,000Kms, Ive done 45,000kms so yeah not long.
What Nm are you looking at getting too? I wanna get the little one to around 550Nm![]()
lol its all good. i do that ALL the time.
as far as im aware, the pd100 (our ones) has a garrett gt1525 (i think) and the pd130's in the tdi sportline in south africa, as far as i have read, are the garrett gt1749va. but ive read alot of people in ZA complaining that these turbos like to blow, and they recommend the gt1749vb (same as in golf 2.0 tdi, im pretty sure) as a good, reliable upgrade.
420nm- if that's the case, then that's sweet- looks like our stock cars really SHOULD be able to handle a modest stage one retune, and then some (exhaust, ic upgrades etc).
I'd be interested to see how our stock turbos hold out/ how many clicks they hold out for, with different tunes.
are you guys planning on waiting until your turbo blows to upgrade? or pre-emptively changing turbos before that happens?
Ill change turbo's when the car reaches 100,000Kms, Ive done 45,000kms so yeah not long.
What Nm are you looking at getting too? I wanna get the little one to around 550Nm![]()
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VW: it aint just a car, its a way of life
There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
My Blog: tinkererstales.blogspot.com.au
interesting..... i've read about guys' turbos (vnt15 from the pd90 golf mk iv's) blowing at 120k miles etc, and them replacing them then.
I too was thinking that 100,000km's would be a nice round number to replace the current turbo- sure it might be abit early by some peoples standards, but apparently with out pd engines when a turbo blows there's the potential that it will take the engine with it (can someone verify specifics as to why pls?).
i've recently adjusted my thinking into being more concerned with nm rather than kw, and on that front, i think i'd be happy with 320 for the mean time, but once i get to 100,000kms, im thinking of one of two things:
1. upgrading to a vnt17, but with a mild tune (basically, slightly more power as result of bigger turbo, but not pushing the turbo too much). i was thinking a mild tune as straightline power is nice, but i dont like wheelspin and i dont want too much torque steer as i prefer going around bends fast to straighline. also, being a tightass, i was hoping that this would also translate to turbo longevity. the only problem with this is, i think that turbos have to run at to-the-limit boost every now and then, so that everything gets sealed properly?
2. most likely: 315nm under a chippeduk tune, with things like dp and eventually sprayer for smic, will probably produce a few more nm. that, and suspension should see a fun little package. thus, im thinking another vnt15, run it in all over again, and keep it for another 100,000kms.
to anyone who reads this: i readily admit that im unlearned in these things. i still have to research whether or not running a new VNT turbo conservatively (below its true capabilities, boost wise) will be more damaging to the turbo than good. either that, or it doesnt actually matter? not sure. any info would be well recieved.
cheers, scott
Last edited by Buller_Scott; 14-03-2009 at 02:17 AM.
you two are really just aiming to become street-bully sleepers, arent you?
as delicious as it would be to be able to say that your tiny pog has half the torque of the tdv10 audi r8, im gonna have to call first pansy- i think i'd be more than content with a torque ceiling of around 330-350nm (and eventually, a gorgeous suspension setup).
supposing it were the case that both the vnt15 and vnt17b would safely last 100,000km's before i pre-emptively replace, and supposing that the kilometer longevity of [vnt15 on stage 1 tune] was in the same neighborhood as [vnt17b with very mild tune], then i'd be inclined to stick with replacing my turbo every 100,000km's with vnt 15's, simply because that's what i'll be doing anyway, and the lesser cost of the vnt15.
so yeah, 330-350nm, with a second retune to accomodate turbo back exhaust and permament intercooler spray system down the track(for days when its sunny and there is no traffic on the way up to buller), should be achievable for me, fingers crossed.
obviously this will increase if i read enough literature that suggests that running a 17b on a gentle tune will do:
a) yield greater numbers
b) allow for atleast 150% of the daily driveable kilometers of a vnt15 on stage 1 tune
c) still be able to run gentle boost without compromising the running in process of the turbo, such that above longevity can be achieved
d) NOT require a fmic (nothing against, i just want to do things a little differently-i'd actually like to hook up an intercooler sprayer system with a larger [5L] capacity for "spirited" driving, just to be quirky, and different).
but then, that would be having my cake and eating it too......
Last edited by Buller_Scott; 14-03-2009 at 02:20 AM.
All turbo's "wear" out, but normally the bearing tolerances go, and the car starts consuming more and more oil. you see this in the smokey old skylines etc getting around the place. What will kill a turbo, is making it work too much in the surge zone, and HEAT. Anything you can do to keep the thermal load on the engine, especially the turbo, as low as possible, from cold air inlet, intercooler upgrades, water injection, anything, will help keep it alive.
Too aggressive a tune and the EGT's get too high, and it's at this point the turbo is likely to go kapow. I've measured a bit over 800 deg C in my stock TDI and that's about 100 deg over the "safe" ceiling Gale Banks and the various tuners in my diesel book recommend as a safe upper limit.
I'd be hesitant to go too far beyond that to be honest!!
If metal particles from the turbo manage to get through the intercooler and enter the very, very high compression diesel, and say hold open a valve, well it's going to be a big repair bill. There's just no room in the combustion chamber for anything at all, and the tolerances, especially to valves is tiny as it compresses so much.
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Some six years ago my friend did 252bhp on dyno with his gt1749vb. EGT was +1000 deg C and max power was restricted to 220bhp to reduce max EGT to 930 deg C. He used that car for four years before selling it over. No problems at all. This was a street car and he never raced it as he got his racing kicks from top fuel monsters.
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If a turbo's bearings get too worn this can lead to turbo oil seal failure (or seals can just fail with good bearings). When the oil seals fail they allow lots of engine oil to get into the intake. This oil burns quite well in a diesel, so well in fact that the engine can just rev itself to death just on its own oil.
Unless you can block off the air going into the engine (or have a really good clutch and can stall the engine in a high gear using the brakes) there is no way to stop the engine. There is no ignition to turn off, no way to restrict the fuel supply (the engine oil), the turbo keeps pumping more air and oil in, so the engine just keeps on revving harder and harder, using up its own oil so lubrication is compromised, until it destroys itself. This situation is often referred to as a diesel engine run-away.
Because the VNT turbos have moveable vanes to vary the amount of turbo boost, there is the possibility of them getting clogged with carbon from the exhaust. This is often referred to as sticking or seized vanes. This seems to happen more often with TDIs that are always driven very gently and at fairly low revs, with the result that the vanes get stuck in the angle that maximises boost at low revs. If the engine is then revved above 2,000rpm these stuck vanes can't move to reduce boost at the higher revs, so too much boost is produced. The ECU recognises this situation as dangerous for the engine so it reduces fuel to protect itself - this is often called "limp mode" or "limp home mode". This will be reset next time you switch the engine off, but the ECU usually records an overboost error code.
If a TDI engine with a VNT turbo is regularly given full accelerator pedal from about 1,600 through to 2,500 (say in 2nd or 3rd gear) this usually moves the variable vanes enough to stop them from getting stuck in the high boost position, thus keeping them moving freely.
I have a vague idea it is possible to put too large a turbo onto a TDI and this can lead to turbo surge - which is a bad thing. IIRC there was a thread on this forum discussing this not too long ago, a search will probably find it.
I believe there is quite some science involved in selecting the correct size turbo for any given TDI application (but I am ignorant of the specifics). It is probably worth investigating what other people have done and how successful they were.
Last edited by gregozedobe; 17-03-2009 at 02:37 PM. Reason: Added in some more limp mode info
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There are few things more satisfying in life than finding a solution to a problem and implementing it
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