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Thread: Engine rebuilds - Rings

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    402

    Engine rebuilds - Rings

    Hi all

    Im after some advice on re-ringing a 1.5 diesel motor that im rebuilding. Ive been told that you cant install new rings on the pistons because of the way the rings wear into the ring lands. something to do with the 'armacor' ring land material and the fact that the rings are tapered.

    Does anyone have any experience re-ringing golf diesel motors? The motor that im rebuilding has done 235,000kms

    Thanks for your help!
    Matt
    Beige 79 Mk1 GLD White 76 Mk1 LS 3 door
    White 68 Alfa 1750 Berlina Champagne 91 Alfa 75
    Red 09 9N3 Polo TDI White 2010 Skoda Octavia Combi TDI

  2. #2
    brackie Guest

    Partly correct

    Quote Originally Posted by hiho
    Hi all

    Im after some advice on re-ringing a 1.5 diesel motor that im rebuilding. Ive been told that you cant install new rings on the pistons because of the way the rings wear into the ring lands. something to do with the 'armacor' ring land material and the fact that the rings are tapered.
    The amount of intrusion into the lands depends upon how much work the motor has done. At 200,000km it's much more likely that the bores are glazed rather than the pistons are worn. Really it's a case of inspecting the piston carefully and judging how much wear has taken place. Most of the wear will be on the thrust side. Check (with the new rings fitted) the gap between the ring and the aluminium of the ring groove and see that it is with in tolerance. Also mic the bores from top to bottom east-west and noth-south, then mic the pistons. Again, check that they are within tolerance.

    Does anyone have any experience re-ringing golf diesel motors? The motor that im rebuilding has done 235,000kms
    I've heard many stories of re-ringed 1.5s failing very shortly after rebuilding with new rings and bearings so these checks are a must. If the bores aren't too badly worn you should check ebay US as there are often new piston sets for auction and they go for cheap rices. They are usually Brazilian but although obviously not as good a German they will probably outlast the rest of the car My own personal experience has been good, but then I caught the motor when they were only glazed.

    Thanks for your help!
    Matt

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    402
    Thread Starter
    Thanks Brackie!

    There are some 1.6 TD pistons for sale on ebay. They come in the same oversizes as the 1.5 pistons. Do you know if the gudgeon pin is at the same height relative to the crown and if the pin is the same diameter? In other words, will the 1.6 TD pistons fit?

    Thanks
    Matt
    Beige 79 Mk1 GLD White 76 Mk1 LS 3 door
    White 68 Alfa 1750 Berlina Champagne 91 Alfa 75
    Red 09 9N3 Polo TDI White 2010 Skoda Octavia Combi TDI

  4. #4
    brackie Guest

    You're in luck!

    Quote Originally Posted by hiho
    Thanks Brackie!

    There are some 1.6 TD pistons for sale on ebay. They come in the same oversizes as the 1.5 pistons. Do you know if the gudgeon pin is at the same height relative to the crown and if the pin is the same diameter? In other words, will the 1.6 TD pistons fit?
    The stroke of the CR motor (1.6L) is 86.4mm while the CK (1.5L) is 80mm. This means that the conrods/crank are different. It shouldn't affect the piston crown height or the gudgeon pin diameter, but I'd check if I were you by measuring the distance on the pistons that you have and asking the seller to do the same. I've never worked on a 1.6L motor so I can't comment. The TD pistons have an oil spray in the gudgeon pin housing to spray oil onto the base of the piston crown.

    Good luck! New pistons are the way to go if your bores are good.

    Thanks
    Matt

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Gosford Central Coast NSW
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    4,386
    i re-ringed my 1.5 85000kms ago, and no problems since. i think my engine had around 170000 on it before that.

    i can confirm what brackie has said about the ring grooves.

    the TD piston may have different imprints in the top, which probably wont make any real difference but its something to note.

    there is a cutout in the skirt of the td piston which allows the lower block mounted oil jet to spray under the piston near BDC this shouldnt affect anything in your n/a engine.

    during my re-ringing, i found that my ring grooves were not worn much noticably. machining marks were still visible on the no load sides of the pistons however the thrust side was worn past the machining marks.

    make sure you use a good oil. Dad and I have been using Penrite HPR Diesel 20W-60 for ages now with no problems at all.
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

  6. #6
    peterkaye52 Guest

    78 gld parts needed cylinder head bolts gaskets... any advice

    Gday I know this is not related BUT IM TECHNOLOGICALLY ILLITERATE and couldnt figure how to post a new message..!! Ive just bought a 1978 red gld with oil in water.... Apart from that,it seems to run sweetly. I know the best scenario is head gasket but where is a good place to source good head/ bolts/gaskets etc Also the engine no. is.. CK 117092 is that a 1500cc 0r 1600cc? Cheers Pete from Lonnie

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Gosford Central Coast NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterkaye52 View Post
    Gday I know this is not related BUT IM TECHNOLOGICALLY ILLITERATE and couldnt figure how to post a new message..!! Ive just bought a 1978 red gld with oil in water.... Apart from that,it seems to run sweetly. I know the best scenario is head gasket but where is a good place to source good head/ bolts/gaskets etc Also the engine no. is.. CK 117092 is that a 1500cc 0r 1600cc? Cheers Pete from Lonnie
    the post new thread button is in the <<diesel section mate.(where you click the links to these threads...)

    to answer your question...
    CK is a 1.6 turbodiesel engine code, hence you probably have the 1.6 bottom end but an n/a head.... unless you havnt noticed a turbocharger in there???

    parts are easily available - tooley imports in hornsby (Syd), HSY autoparts in SA, Vic, NSW (alexandria, Syd) etc. google them

    if installing a new HG, if you can check the piston projection above the block deck at TDC on all cylinders and this will tell you which type of HG you need - there are different thicknesses. alternatively you can cheat and use the same thickness that is already on it, as given by the number of notches present on the tab which is visible from the outside at the front of the head. typically there is a 1,2 or 3 notch HG, but it is possible to get a 4 notch one too.
    '07 Touareg V6 TDI with air suspension
    '98 Mk3 Cabriolet 2.0 8V
    '99 A4 Quattro 1.8T

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Adelaide South Australia
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    1,299
    [QUOTE=gldgti;127924]

    to answer your question...
    CK is a 1.6 turbodiesel engine code, hence you probably have the 1.6 bottom end but an n/a head.... unless you havnt noticed a turbocharger in there???


    My 1.5 diesel has a CK prefix, been in there since birth.[Aust. delivery '80]
    I've just looked at my other '79 1.5 & that has CK prefix also.
    My 82 1.6 NA has CR prefix.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    The Land of Oz
    Posts
    78

    Water/oil mix

    This is probably the most common engine failure with the 1.5D. It's no big deal really, as in most cases it's the head gasket that's at fault. Removing the head is simple but make sure that you do the usual checks:

    * use a straight edge longitudinally, diagonally and transversely to check for warpage. If it is warped, throw it away and source one that isn't
    * measure piston protrusion to make sure that you get the right thickness head gasket (9 times out of 10 it's the same as the one that came out)
    * avoid having the head skimmed as clearances are so tight that you may run into trouble
    * thoroughly clean the head and block surface so that there's absolutely no residue from the old gasket

    Follow the workshop manual's torquing procedure. Also, make sure that you tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 10ft/lbs more than specified. They have a habit of coming loose and you can guess the rest.....

    Disclaimer... this advice is given freely and no responsibility is taken for its use or misuse.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    2,396

    Quote Originally Posted by cetane View Post
    This is probably the most common engine failure with the 1.5D. It's no big deal really, as in most cases it's the head gasket that's at fault. Removing the head is simple but make sure that you do the usual checks:

    * use a straight edge longitudinally, diagonally and transversely to check for warpage. If it is warped, throw it away and source one that isn't
    * measure piston protrusion to make sure that you get the right thickness head gasket (9 times out of 10 it's the same as the one that came out)
    * avoid having the head skimmed as clearances are so tight that you may run into trouble
    * thoroughly clean the head and block surface so that there's absolutely no residue from the old gasket

    Follow the workshop manual's torquing procedure. Also, make sure that you tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 10ft/lbs more than specified. They have a habit of coming loose and you can guess the rest......
    I hear the sounds of bitter experience in some of the above

    Disclaimer... this advice is given freely and no responsibility is taken for its use or misuse.
    As in, you got it for free, I'm not supervising how well you follow it, so don't blame me if things go wrong ?

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