Diesel Crank replacement

**smithy010** · 23-09-2006, 04:44 PM

Thanks Lads, I'll do that just as soon as i get some time to scratch myself..

**smithy010** · 22-12-2006, 09:31 AM

Well, i've finally made some progress. I bought parts the other week, and i've been pulling the rest of it down and looking at each part and cleaning out the cooling passages and oil passages etc etc.
I was at my shed yesterday and a thought came to me- "What's stopping me from just bunging the crank in now?" So i did!

It was one of those things that you keep putting off because it's so important.

My "Engine lab" was far from clean and dust free, but i tried to be as clean as possible. Thought it would be more difficult with the pistons still in- but it wasn't too bad.
Now, the crank is in, and i haven't yet torqued up the bolts fully. Should i loctite them before i torque them?

It feels beautiful and smooth- not that it shouldn't!

So now all i've gotta do is sort all the other stuff out- engine mounts, cooling pipes, water pump etc.

One question i have is- do i have to take the injector pump bracket off to chage the engine mount? Or should i make up a little pusher and do it in- situ?

brackie · 28-12-2006, 06:04 AM

Sorry mate. Been very busy and not giving the forum the time it deserves.

Originally Posted by smithy010

Well, i've finally made some progress. I bought parts the other week, and i've been pulling the rest of it down and looking at each part and cleaning out the cooling passages and oil passages etc etc.
I was at my shed yesterday and a thought came to me- "What's stopping me from just bunging the crank in now?" So i did!

It was one of those things that you keep putting off because it's so important.

My "Engine lab" was far from clean and dust free, but i tried to be as clean as possible. Thought it would be more difficult with the pistons still in- but it wasn't too bad.
Now, the crank is in, and i haven't yet torqued up the bolts fully. Should i loctite them before i torque them?

No. Don't loctite them. Torquing them is all that's necessary. Do you have any Plastigauge? If so, put some into each bearing and torque it down to check that they aren't over-tight or worn (I'm assuming you're using new shells

) I always check for bearing crush whenever I put a "foreign" crank into an engine or have had one machined. I've been caught out before. (Do a search on bearing crush as I've explained it previously.)

It feels beautiful and smooth- not that it shouldn't!

So now all i've gotta do is sort all the other stuff out- engine mounts, cooling pipes, water pump etc.

One question i have is- do i have to take the injector pump bracket off to chage the engine mount? Or should i make up a little pusher and do it in- situ?

I would take the bracket off (you already have the pump off) as it makes the job easier.
Good luck! It should be a runner soon

**smithy010** · 17-05-2007, 09:39 PM

I HAVE MADE NO PROGRESS.- except the bearings are in, and the sump is on.

Just thought you all might like to know that.....

BUT,

I have 3 weeks of uni left. After that, i have finished uni FOREVER! (unless i am so stupid as to enrol in a masters or phd in the future).

So, after i finish this thesis and hand it in, and before i build the new suspension for the UNSW solar car, my diesel engine will be getting some time. Put her all back together, time her up, and try to get it running on a stand, then bung it in and see how i go!

**smithy010** · 25-06-2007, 10:33 PM

Owing to the recent finishing of my degree, and the fact that my petrol engine is on its way out, i have made some progress on the diesel that's been sitting on the garage floor for around 12 months now.

I put the belt on and timed it today. Gave it a turn over by hand, and it feels good. It measures well (With my new little brass adaptor for my dial gauge, that i made the other week at the old man's place).

Now, all that should be left is to go and see Mr Loon and pick up the bits and bobs that he has saved up for me (including a new wasserpumper), and i should be in business.

Has anyone had a diesel running on a stand before ? I am tossing up whether to just throw it straight in the car without test running it, or whether to mount engine and gearbox in a light metal frame that i have made up for it and run it there... Wondering how much it will rattle around if it's not in the car? Also will have to set up some sort of cooling system if i'm going to do it out of the car... Sounds troublesome.

**smithy010** · 03-07-2007, 09:54 PM

Today i put in my bigger fuel lines which i got from Matt.
It was a sweet little job. I was amazed at how easily the old lines came out and the new ones fit up.
I didn't change the tank, just drilled out the return line pipe in the existing swallowtail tank bung and inserted and silver soldered a new 3/8" copper pickup pipe in its place. Turned out to be sweet job.

I've wired up a 60Amp relay to a switch on the dash, which will be the glowplug heater. What's the average heating time with the automatic jobby?

So the diesel should be just about ready to go in.
It's about time!
I'm a moron and haven't been taking pics.

Oh, a question for the dieselers: Where does the CAV filter mount?

**smithy010** · 03-07-2007, 10:08 PM

Another question:

What temperature is the thermostat in the diesel?

brackie · 04-07-2007, 06:35 AM

Originally Posted by smithy010

Today i put in my bigger fuel lines which i got from Matt.
It was a sweet little job. I was amazed at how easily the old lines came out and the new ones fit up.
I didn't change the tank, just drilled out the return line pipe in the existing swallowtail tank bung and inserted and silver soldered a new 3/8" copper pickup pipe in its place. Turned out to be sweet job.

I don't know the swallowtail tank, but is the return close to the top of the tank? It should be for the diesel. Baffles in the tank also help with frothing.

I've wired up a 60Amp relay to a switch on the dash, which will be the glowplug heater. What's the average heating time with the automatic jobby?

The glow time is controlled by the glow plug relay which gets a feed from the sender on the water outlet on the rear of the head. Glow time is dependent on head temperature, but on a really cold start the time is ~20sec. I've fitted fast glow plugs and relay to my diesels which brings the time down to 8sec.

So the diesel should be just about ready to go in.
It's about time!
I'm a moron and haven't been taking pics.

Pics would have been good for learners.

Oh, a question for the dieselers: Where does the CAV filter mount?

I've never had a GLD with a factory CAV filter but it can be mounted on the right wing bulkhead.

**smithy010** · 04-07-2007, 10:11 AM

Originally Posted by brackie

I don't know the swallowtail tank, but is the return close to the top of the tank? It should be for the diesel. Baffles in the tank also help with frothing.

That is a small concern.
What i did, was drill the original petrol return line out from the bung, so the 3/8" copper line replaces the small petrol return line, and the original pickup line becomes the return line. No baffle, but i will be trimming the pickup line so that it will be closer to the top of the tank.. Will just see how it goes. Surely there is a limit to the amount of froth a tank can contain?