BKD Engine - EGR and EGR Cooler delete

[gldgti]

Sounds like you are right on top of things with it now Julza. Well done

[julza]

Sounds like you are right on top of things with it now Julza. Well done

Nearly there. I got everything back together after much swearing (trying to get turbo intake pipe back on) I really need to buy some remote hose clamp pliers- i used a pair of vice grips.

The car is unfortunaterly still showing the EGR Flap error code Going to have to buy a new one. Sick of seeing this CEL all the time.

Also, the other day I went to do a coolant change however i must have missed something. I took off the bottom and top hose, flushed everything but it took only shy of 4L (G12 coolant) which is a damn waste- i must have not emptied the whole system. What is the best way to dump all the coolant?

Cheers
Julian

[gldgti]

The thermostat being closed would have held the rest in the block.

Not sure how hard it is to get to the thermostat housing on your engine... but basically its behind the plastic flange bolted to the front of the block, directly adjacent to where the water pump bolts into the block (round the corner, so to speak).

[Rebuild]

and turn your heater controls to full "HOT"

[Johnnojack]

I found the best way to clean out the carbon muck is: Goggles and rubber gloves on, then use caustic soda solution (NaOH) or oven cleaner and an old toothbrush. Wash away with water and repeat on any stubborn spots.

[jets]

Since I posted earlier on this thread I have cleaned another EGR valve, this time on our Tiguan. I found that oil dissolving solvents only work to a point & you are left with some carbon/soot. I think caustic may remove this. We have some oven clean in a spray can but it says that it's caustic free so when buying read the label first.

[Johnnojack]

jets, yes solvents work on the oily stuff, leaving behind the sometimes hard carbon deposits. Caustic solution liquefies it, it will also liquefy your skin, hence the P.P.E. You can use Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or Potassium Hydroxide (KOH). I get it in 25kg bags but don't know how you get small quantities. I see you are in Adelaide, pm me if you want some.

[Johnnojack]

New information (for me), I connected a vacuum gauge to the EGR and was shocked to find the EGR stayed open for 7km from a cold start. Given that the majority of our trips are 12k or less it is no wonder the thing blocks up so quick. Also it is hard to get the trip mileage readout under 5.0 on a short trip while a trip of 20 k or more (suburban driving) getting to 4.0l/100k is easy. Has started blowing clouds of black smoke on quick takeoffs again too.

[getjet]

Interesting read mate. the EGR system can play up from time to time...

In the hope that it may assist you in some way, I had a low rpm stutter when I accelerated. Turned out it was something to do with the egr.

Hooked up a mityvac to the egr valve (the one on the cooler itself) vac line and when vac was applied, it got stuck at a point and then popped out when the vac was increased.

In the end I just had it mapped out and a put a bearing in the vac line just in case. Darkside in the uk did the software side of things... Car never ran better and you can't tell if you lift up the bonnet.

[sktan]

Hey Guys,

I've got an Audi A3 8P which I purchased last year for my wife to use. She's done about 250,00km's so not a spring chicken. ( we got it for what i thought to be, a good price) It has nice black leather interior, has the DSG 6 speed which I love, and oddly enough it has paddle shifters on the steering wheel.

This is the car- I know this is a VW forum, but as far as I understand, these have a lot in common with the Golf. The engine appears identical apart from the four circles on the engine cover (which i have turfed anyway!)







Since getting the car a few months ago, we first changed the DSG Dual mass flywheel (Cost $2200 for my mechanic to do, apparently $1200 for the part) After this we had a slight coolant leak.

My mechanic suggested a sealing additive to the coolant as the leak was only a weep. I have now put the leak down to the EGR Cooler EGR cooler-Bonway International Company Limited Cooler. The leak resumed with vengeance the other day, so i have parked the car for a few days while i fix this.


I have a feeling some problems are linked. The computer threw up a Inlet manifold/ASV flap code a few weeks ago and i haven't yet attended to it. I have decided to do a EGR + EGR Cooler delete based on my online research so far.

Yesterday I removed the ASV/EGR assembly. Take a look at this photo- not sure if this has ever been cleaned or replaced.



After seeing this buildup, this has re-enforced the EGR Delete / EGR cooler delete option I have chosen.

I'm going to clean the ASV and Inlet manifold. Hopefully the gears on the ASV haven't chewed out yet- The replacement is quite expensive (Volkswagen quoted me 700, they are available from the UK online for about $300 though..and i can get one from the wrecker for $150 (second hand with 6 month warranty)

Hopefully removing both will accomplish a few things:

1: Stop dirty recirculated gassy air gunking up the Intake again
2: Remove a few potential coolant leaks from the rear of the motor that are fun to get to
3: Save some money on a new EGR cooler, that will eventually fail again.
4: Remove two potential future failures - EGR valve and EGR cooler, which are costly to replace)

While removing the EGR is deemed as negative by some,. this car has already done 270,000 km's and I believe most of the emission controls at this age do more harm than good- as seen in this case, or are no longer effective.

The car has been sounding different lately (making more turbo boost noises) and sometimes when loaded (such as going up hill) or overtaking I leave what i like to call a "smokescreen" in front of the unfortunate person behind me. Hopefully the EGR delete will lower/get rid of this.

I'll post up updates with my progress on this. I've ordered the EGR delete pipe from Allard online so hopefully it will arrive from the UK soon. I'm picking up the fitting to do the EGR cooler delete from VW parts today (was about $30)

The only issue i can see at the moment is mapping out the EGR function from the ECU. I'm not sure who/where i can get this done and how much it will be.

I also got a glow plug fault code a few weeks ago (this is after I swapped out all four flow plugs thinking it would fix the starting issue)

I have a feeling i may need to replace the glowplug/injector loom as well ill do one thing at a time until i dont get any more lights!- will see if the glowplug code comes up again.

Is anybody able to recommend a method/tuner who can do this? Would I benefit from a remap at the same time? I am also experiencing long crank times when hot and it is extremely frustrating holding the key for 5-6 seconds sometimes to get it to start- i have seen online that some people have "mapped out" the hot starting issue as well?

The first thing i did with this car when I got it was do a oil change with quality penrite oil, new oil filter, new diesel filter, new air filter etc. Will also dump the coolant once the issue is resolved and put proper audi/vw g12 coolant back in.

Also, if anybody could give me experiences with how these motors go at High k's like this and what the potential lifetime is, and recommendations to increase the longevity it would be great.

Would appreciate any advice anybody can offer!

Cheers

Julian


PS. See below for codes. Not sure about the Auto trans one but i did clear all codes a fw days ago, not sure if the glowplugs or auto trans came back up

Tuesday,10,December,2013,20:57:08:10074
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Data version: 20070422
Chassis Type: 1K0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 42 44 46 47 52 56 62 72 7D


VIN: WAUZZZ8P35A068911 Mileage: 267350km/166123miles


00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door,Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
7D-Aux. Heat -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No SW: 03G 906 016 DT HW: 028 101 189 2
Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000AG 7000
Coding: 0000078
Shop #: WSC 06314


3 Faults Found:
17056 - Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit (Q11): Electrical Fault
P0672 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 134.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.08 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Temperature: 9.0°C
Bin. Bits: 00110000


17055 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10): Electrical Fault
P0671 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 840 /min
Torque: 44.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.29 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Temperature: 13.5°C
Bin. Bits: 10110000


19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction
P3103 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 252 /min
Torque: 100.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 10.11 V
Bin. Bits: 00101100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 76.0 Nm


Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-300-0xx.LBL
Part No SW: 02E 300 041 N HW: 02E 927 770 AD
Component: GSG DSG 041 0813
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 06314


1 Fault Found:
28775 - No Communication with Gear Selector Module
U0103 - 000 - - - Intermittent - MIL ON

250,00KM and the EGR is down, very poor EGR.