2.0l Oil/Filter change

[250 downunder]

Be thankful this is the case, as the oil filter / cooler housing has several non return valves to keep oil in the area, purely so when you start the car, oil gets to the turbo far, far quicker when it most certainly needs to. I'm not keen on a turbo spinning up without oil that is still on it's way up from the sump!

I just drain the cooler as well when I do a change, but yeah as if the dealer would bother. I figure doing changes at 7500k's I'm keeping the dirt levels down anyhow.

Do you just loosen the cap under the cooler and let it go? Messy business hey!
Do you partially fill the filter canister with fresh oil before fitting the new element and the cap?
I had difficulty removing the filter cap initially until I realized that the filter element clips onto the cap and that it must be unclipped before the cap can be removed - can't remove the cap with the element still attached to it. This could be a trap for first timers [it was for me].

[250 downunder]

If you want to drain the oil filter housing the easy way...

Loosen the oil filter top housing right off first, before draining the oil. But don't remove the filter, as it will be full of oil & will get very messy. Just loosen the oil filter housing cap off, that's all.

This allow's the oil in the filter to drain, as the housing will have a place to breath from to drain freely.

Stay away from the oil cooler housing underneath.

It's also handy to run the engine for a few minutes & get the oil hot first, then it will drain alot easier.

Hope this make's sense.

Sounds easier and cleaner. Does this allow most of the oil in the filter/cooler assy. to drain down into the sump ?

[Oneofthegreats]

Sounds easier and cleaner. Does this allow most of the oil in the filter/cooler assy. to drain down into the sump ?

It should drain whatever oil content's are in the housing into the sump.

[Vicbitter]

Anyone from melbourne recommend any vw dealerships for servicing

[Transporter]

No matter what you do, you will never drain all the oil out of the engine. Oil has to stay in the oil pump and the oil galleries (dirty oil is better than none).
I suck the oil from the oil filter housing when the oil filter is removed using vacuum oil extractor and after replacing the drain plug I fill some oil through the oil filter housing in the engine.

[250 downunder]

I certainly did, and much more easily after I applied a short section of white heat shrink tube to the section between the high & low marks on that stupid black dipstick! [I will be checking the dip stick regularly to see how the tubing stands up to hot oil]

BAD IDEA - The heat shrink tube had come loose on the dipstick after a few short drives. It stayed between the knobs but was to loose to risk leaving it on. Back to the drawing board!

[gregozedobe]

Thanks for letting us know. I don't like the black dip stick on my transporter either, but was always worried that whatever I put on it may come off and end up blocking some small but critical oil line.

[comfortline]

Get it powdercoated.

[brentondm]

Get it powdercoated.

the problem is the dip stick appears to be high temp oil resistant plastic, the powder coating process requires a baking temp of 160-210C, i doubt the dipstick will hold up to that temp to get the powercoat to go through its 4 stages to finally cure.

[comfortline]

Bugger. Engine enamel?

Or do you get a custom one.....all narrow metal?