I have about 30% on post tax payment.
My residual would be 14k by 2017. That makes my
MY12.5 about 6 years old. I'm hoping to break-even if I
run it to the 5 years term.
I have about 30% on post tax payment.
My residual would be 14k by 2017. That makes my
MY12.5 about 6 years old. I'm hoping to break-even if I
run it to the 5 years term.
MY12.5 B7 V6 Passat wagon in Mocca Anthricite with Panoramic sunroof, SatNav, Driver Assistance & Visibility Package, Adaptive Cruise, Park Assist 2, Auto Tailgate,Tint, Towbar & RVC
Because, unless you earn in the top marginal tax bracket, the total tax liability is less.. IIRC 30% compared to about 47%..your choice, you'd need to look at your own circumstances and work out whether it's worth it or not. In my case, it was - about $2000 annually, from memory..
MY08 Passat 2.0 TDI Wagon
Trialling golf ball aerodynamics theory - random pattern, administered about 1550 on Christmas Day, 2011.
Been reading this thread with great interest as I'm kinda facing that decision.
I hate having car payments for longer than necessary, hate paying interest - but hate paying more taxes than I need to even more.
Yet, the whole novated lease complex just leaves me scratching my head. Because it seems you can't actually get at the meat of the underlying math. Oh yeah, there's all these wonderful "novated leasing calculators" and lo and behold not matter what I seem to type into there it always looks like I'd "save money/taxes". But compared to what? I'm too much of a math/science geek to not ask "what are your formulas and what data are you precisely using?" and the leasing companies never seem to come through with that.
I've created my own spreadsheet into which I punched all sorts of comparisons: outright cash, various combinations of finacing (different down payments, different run-times), adding running costs for the vehicle and then tried to reverse engineer the novated lease calculations based on what I found from the ATO.
Even at my salary range (which is now very near the top tax threshold, curse you, ATO) I just can't seem to make these numbers come out such that I *really* end up with an advantage.
This whole thing just seems like such a... I dunno, ... scam! Maybe I'm overlooking something and would love enlightenment, but at this moment it looks like it's just a shell game which allows people to drive more car than they could normally afford. Especially if you go by the "well I'll always have a car payment one way or the other" anyway.
What am I missing?
At this moment it looks like the best combo is to make a decent (30%) down payment, then finance for 3 years and then be done with it. Overall interest remains minimal that way, I don't tie up too much cash that I could otherwise invest of have work for me and I don't spend years making car payments. But there's nothing from the ATO that way. That irks.![]()
Last edited by Marakai; 08-07-2012 at 01:09 PM.
see if you can find a good, reputable, no-nonsense company that specialises in novated leasing/salary sacrificing. Mine goes through the math with me each time and it always comes out better. However, one qualifier, it's only better than if I were still going to finance a vehicle (e.g. personal loan or other standard finance arrangement).
Other advantage is I never have to negotiate discount (saved $7k on this one), just negotiated a few free services. There are a few things you can also tweak to get slightly better advantage, especially if you intend not seeing out the term of the loan - e.g. making advanced payments with your pre-tax dollars etc. (although this may depend on the finance company).
For me advantages are the Less GST on all
Car related items such as the car, fuel and maintenance cost.
Not having to worry about if I have enough money for
Service/Fuel/Tyres when I need to.
Also having it come out of my salary is I don't end up spending
It on something else. Plus huge discount on the car.
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