Originally Posted by OilBurna
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looks like we are not alone.
http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=22294
these are the instructions from a guy who did it on an EOS TDI...
I Changed the oil in my Eos today. The instructions are basically that of the linked PDF above, with a few minor changes. Two things I would say is that if you are a beginner, give yourself several hours to get the job done so you can take your time. Also if you have access to a lift or similar, it will make your life A LOT easier. You'll see why below.
Tools:
1/2 Socket + Ratchet
T25 Torx Driver
Channel Lock Pliers or 36mm Socket
Adjustable Wrench or Vacuum Evacuator
Supplies:
4.5 Quarts of 502.00 oil (I used Mobil1 0W40)
Fram CH9911 or similar oil Filter (be forewarned, I had to special order it even though several cars VW/Audi makes use this same engine and filter)
14 x 1.5 x 22 Replacement oil plug with washer (if you don't use the evacuator)
The first step is to get some room to work, so put the car up on ramps or a lift (preferable). Pull the emergency break, put it in park, and chock the wheels. I'm not taking the fall for you crushing yourself dang it.
Next, open the hood and loosen the oil filler cap, leaving it covering the hole so no dirt gets in. Just make sure air can get through.
Then get your T25, and your half inch socket, and undo the Ten(!) Torx screws and Eight(!!) half inch bolts holding the metal skid plate onto the car. This is where all that room a lift provides will keep you from cussing up a storm and cracking a few knuckles.
After you've carefully put the screws and bolts away for safe keeping and put your skid plate out of the way, you'll see the oil filter on the front side of the car. Unscrew the end-cap (attached by a tether), slide your drain pan underneath and the use your torx driver to push the orange nipple upwards so the oil will drain out. Or you could spend $80 on the (not so) glorified funnel called the T40057 Oil drain adapter. Either way. You don't even have to hold the nipple up, so why you'd spend that kind of money on something like that I will never understand. It has $.02 of hose and maybe $.25 of brass in it. Aaaanywho...
If you're using an evacuator, skip the next step...
After the oil has drained from the filter, move your pan rearward about a foot and a half and towards the passenger side slightly. There, when you face the front of the car, you'll see the oil plug. Loosen it with your adjustable wrench, and undo it by hand. Since you're replacing the oil plug, you can just let it fall into the drain pan as the oil starts to drain. Be aware that the oil will have a tendancy to shoot out 4-5 inches rearward, so you'll have to make allowances for your drain pan location.
This step applies to both methods...
Then go back to the oil filter, and loosen it with your channel locks or the 36mm Socket. If you've let it drain thoroughly, it won't make a mess when you unscrew it. Then take the bottom half of the filter to the trash, dump out the filter material, and pull out the rubber o-ring inside the plastic housing. I also like to wipe out the filter housing with a clean rag to get all the bits that may be in there out, although I don't think this step is strictly necessary. Replace the new filter and o-ring, make sure the orange oil drain for the lower filter housing has re-seated correctly in the bottom of the housing by moving it until the springs push it back into place, and then relax for a minute. You're half way done!
If you're using an evacuator, skip the next step...
After all the oil has drained from the oil pan, put your new drain plug in, and tighten securely, without over tightening it (that would be BAD).
If you're draining via the oil plug skip the next step....
If you're using the evacuator, it's time to suck some oil. Follow the directions for your evacuator, but most use the dipstick tube to remove the oil from the oil pan. After you've sucked all there is to suck, relax! You're half-way done!
The following steps apply to both methods...
Now replace the oil filter/housing. You'll have to press firmly to seat the new filter onto the top part of the housing, then tighten it hand-tight. There is no need to tighten with the wrench or socket, in fact I recommend against using them. Hand tight is all that is necessary, you will feel the o-ring compress slightly before you can no longer turn it by hand.
Remove the oil filler cap completely now, and fill with 4.5 quarts of oil. After filling, replace the cap, start the engine, let it idle, and check under the car for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter. If there are none, turn off the car, replace the tethered cap for the oil filter, and replace your Eight bolts and 10 torx screws that hold up the skid-plate.
Finally move the car off the ramps/lift to a level area. Give the car some time to let all the oil drain into the pan, check the oil level with the dipstick, and add oil as necessary. This is also where I check the book for all the other things that need to be done during the current Service Interval. The last step is to reset the service indicator following these instructions: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2929207 I also like to check the oil level once a day for the next few days to confirm that everything is ok. Of course I think you should do that no matter who changes your oil.
Dispose of your waste responsibly and revel in the fact that you just saved yourself a bunch of money, and you didn't even have to switch to Geico.
this thread is also useful.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2949070
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