An interesting Mk1 engine

[Edinism]

Give me offers and ideas for my up-and-coming build!

I bought the car with the intention of dropping a VR6 (technically already have it, needs to be rebuilt) into it using a Eurowise kit, but since then I've come to appreciate the 4 cylinder engines. Since then I've been jumping between 16V and 8V set ups, buying a salvage Mk4 GTI and dropping the AGU into it, back to thinking about 16V with carbs.

Currently in the car (and soon to be out of the car) is a JH with single Weber 45 DCOE (Lynx manifold), 020 5 speed (unsure of specific model), and a whole bunch of dodgy wiring.

Do you somehow have a 9A sitting in your garage gathering dust, and want to sell it?
Should I stick with an 8V because they're old and cool?
Go crazy and get an AGU + Megasquirt DIY kit?

Let us discuss all the possibilities

[Edinism]

Chasing 110kW at the wheels, carbureted. How expensive is that going to get? Should I be afraid of heatsoak/predetonation with a counterflow head?

[Mk1@4Motion]

I have a 8V RV 1.8 engine. Its at a mates place, from memory it does have a gearbox as well. Give and take $150 for the lot. Pm me if you are interested. I am located in Canberra


Only The Good Die Young 45

[sports racer]

110 kw at the wheels is around 220 hp at the flywheel which is at the limit for a naturally aspirated 4 cylinder on carbies. Hope you’ve won Lotto recently and don't mind a real bitch of an engine which needs 8000 rpm to get it's power. To get 110 kw at the wheels you’d be best going 1.8 20vt.

Even if you do find someone silly enough to sell you their (ultra rare in Australia) 9a it’s only rated at 70 kw at the wheels and that’s on fuel injection.

Why are you after so much power? My MK2 has a 2.0 8v with less than 55 kw at the wheels and it's as quick as a standard 6 cylinder Holden/Ford. It's OK as a daily to go to work and back but would be nicer with more power but it doesn’t need double the horsepower.

My MK1 is waiting for me to rebuild my 9a and will be good for 80 kw at the wheels on it’s twin 40's and ABF head. It’s more than 100 kg lighter than the MK2 so should be fun to drive without spending too much money.

[rayray086]

I've got an AUM 1.8T from my 8L A3, 170k km. Chassis has had it so just want to part it. Currently runs, PM me if interested.

[Edinism]

Why are you after so much power?

The JH in there now that's putting 49kW to the wheels (I think it was a happy dyno) is definitely fun to drive, but what's wrong with wanting a bit more punch
Unless I've done the maths wrong, and assuming the Mk1 is 850KG, that's a power/weight rating of 58kW/tonne.

I don't know why it feels as fast as cars I've driven around the 130kW/tonne mark, but the numbers are way off, I just thought it would be nice to bring the number up there. But I digress, I didn't realise I was pushing it that much.

Realistically, what are some routes that can be taken with the 8V engines that don't break the bank? My very limited understanding had me thinking that I'd need to

1) Do a lot of reading
2) Take it to an engine rebuilder to have it cleaned up
3) Do more reading
4) Make a large order with TT
5) Read more while putting it back together very carefully

I've got an AUM 1.8T from my 8L A3, 170k km. Chassis has had it so just want to part it. Currently runs, PM me if interested.

PM sent.

[sports racer]

I've been in a MK1 with 2.0 8v with very little mods and it was a blast. Felt amazingly quick but probably only had 60kw at the wheels. The extra torque from the 2 litre was noticeable and probably what made it such a quick car.

Getting a 2.0 from a MK3 is the most cost effective way of putting a smile on your face. Next step up would be to fit a big valve head (standard on overseas GTI's), good exhaust and twin webbers. Add a decent cam and you should be seeing 110 kw at the flywheel.

Cheers

Paul

[Stanton]

Mk1 Golfs are very deceptive,they feel like they are fast,when in reality they are not, maybe because they are small and basic and people compare them to other VWs like Golf 2s and 3s.Unless one drops a 1.8t into one they are not fast.
N/A fast is huge dollars.Going late factory turbo is by far the best and cheapest option in the long run.

[sports racer]

1.9 turbo diesel would make an interesting choice. Less than 5 litres per 100 ks and good for over 300 hp.

[Browneye]

8v head on a 1.8t turbo block gives you around 13:1 compression if you want to stay NA. All with stock internals.

Anything other than a NA 8v doesn't look or feel right under the bonnet of a mk1. Just my 2 cents anyway