Lovely!
It reminds me of the approach we used to take back in my old Subaru days. Throwing more aggressive pads on the stock calipers (with stock or upgraded rotors) felt great regarding bite and outright performance, but you were always very much aware that you were running aftermarket performance pads, no matter which pad compound you chose. Each had specific trade-offs re: cold performance, noise, wear, dust etc.
Going to larger 4 pot alloy STI Brembo calipers and rotors (or sometimes the 2 pot Liberty GT calipers which were also larger than stock) always felt so much nicer under all conditions - whether on the street or on the track - and due to the additional heatsink capacity of the big rotors and the additional braking torque that the larger setup offered, you could often get away with running less aggressive compounds which just felt nicer on a day-to-day basis.
Yep, it's more expensive, but well worth it if you can afford it IMHO.
Yeah, I'm really surprised how much it changes the feel and handling of the car - wasn't expecting that.
I took it for a drive just before and it stops much quicker, without realizing it. It's pulling up earlier than it normally would, without the feeling of hard braking. I gave them a bit of a push (only part way) and it came up to a smooth stop very quickly - gotta be careful no-one runs up the back of me now!
The lack of squealing and rattling from the old poorly-fitted pads may also be contributing a little to the psychology - no more cringing while driving over road divets and ruts =D
I expected more grab and roughness (ie. beast mode), but it's actually a lot more refined. Quiet, smooth and gives me more confidence to drive the car harder. Can hit corners a bit faster too (lighter tap going into a faster corner)... can't really do much on the street though, and with some traffic around.
I'm really happy with them - money well spent IMHO.
Last edited by nermal; 30-06-2022 at 06:40 PM.
Well... the only track I've ever been on is a go-kart track, so would need a lot of training/practice first.
I'd also like to do some more to the car first. Maybe after stage 3 and if I've fitted the oil catch-can (prevent me from destroying the ea888.3 engine) and probably some other essentials.
2018 Arteon R-Line - Black, Sunroof, Dynaudio, 20" Wheels, RacingLine: Stage 2 ECU+DSG|380mm BBK|Intercooler+Hoses|Oil Cooler|R600 Intake|Adjustable Front Droplinks|Dogbone Insert|Subframe Brace+Alignment Kit|Propshaft Alignment Kit, Milltek: Zirotec Downpipe, Harding: Front+Rear Sway Bars|Rear Droplinks, Other: OSRAM Dynamic Indicators, EvcX Throttle Controller, 034 (RED) Coil Packs, Various Carbon Bits
2022 Tiguan Allspace R-Line, Grey - Sunroof, Harmon Kardon
oil catch can is not gonna prevent you from destroying anything my friend thats a myth.. its actually 1 of the least useful mods u can do on the ea888 and does little to nothing for the money and time spent(well proven by now)
better to invest in a extra oil cooler as the temps can get ridiculously hot and blow ur engine. and quickly (maybe even dsg oil cooler to go with that ) and an uprated oil pan with baffle as both those OEM parts can actually blow ur engine up with temps and oil starvation at the wrong time... (but im sure HARDING PERFORMANCE already told u that?? )
might wanna get some training or practice in first in your sub stage 3 car with stage 3 brake kit... before you go full stage 3 for another what.. 25k and put it thru a wall with ur insurance not valid.
2018 Arteon R-Line - Black, Sunroof, Dynaudio, 20" Wheels, RacingLine: Stage 2 ECU+DSG|380mm BBK|Intercooler+Hoses|Oil Cooler|R600 Intake|Adjustable Front Droplinks|Dogbone Insert|Subframe Brace+Alignment Kit|Propshaft Alignment Kit, Milltek: Zirotec Downpipe, Harding: Front+Rear Sway Bars|Rear Droplinks, Other: OSRAM Dynamic Indicators, EvcX Throttle Controller, 034 (RED) Coil Packs, Various Carbon Bits
2022 Tiguan Allspace R-Line, Grey - Sunroof, Harmon Kardon
If you listed them with the range of VW MQB cars they match I wager you'd get a bit of interest with the time it takes to receive parts these days.
At a glance there appears to be a bit of life left on the pads, so maybe anywhere from $450-650 depending how quickly you want them gone and how quickly someone needs a repair or upgrade. A good price might also save you the hassle of packaging and shipping them.
Recently some R36 calipers and rotors (no pads) went for $585
Some proper R front calipers sold for $469
There are plenty of no-name caliper and rotor sets for sale, but the OEM gear seems to sell quite well.
Bookmarks