Mk2 Tiguan Tuning

[tigger73]

You need to get the flash counter reset as well as delete all the stored history of max values stored that will indicate the car had been operating outside “normal parameters “.

I believe disconnecting the battery for 5-10 minutes will remove the history but your tuner will need to be able to reset the flash counter.

Still no guarantees this is going to be “undetectable” . If you’re going to tune you should accept responsibility if you break things.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ozsko]

Why would you modify the car and then expect a warranty on any problems caused by the modification that occurred ? It has a few names none of them very nice, theft and deception are two I can think of. It is a bit confronting when put that way.

[tigger73]

Why would you modify the car and then expect a warranty on any problems caused by the modification that occurred ? It has a few names none of them very nice, theft and deception are two I can think of. It is a bit confronting when put that way.

There are still times when the stock parts are known to be faulty/problematic and in this instance it’s not so clear cut.

Also it may be non-driveline related (e.g. water pump) and some people prefer to have the car at the dealers in stock form so 1) it doesn’t get flagged 2) genuine warranty work goes smoothly.

You may also want to return the car to stock when trading the car in and the new buyer probably wouldn’t want to get it flagged up if it’s still in warranty so it’s not an unreasonable thing to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Entheos]

You need to get the flash counter reset as well as delete all the stored history of max values stored that will indicate the car had been operating outside “normal parameters “.

I believe disconnecting the battery for 5-10 minutes will remove the history but your tuner will need to be able to reset the flash counter.

Still no guarantees this is going to be “undetectable” . If you’re going to tune you should accept responsibility if you break things.

I think those who tune their car should assume that it is detectable. Ross Tech have a pretty good post on the matter here: Warranty Keys Facts - TD1, etc

The short of of it is this.

• If you take your car to the dealer for any reason they are likely to plug your car in. If you have a tune, then it will automatically send the data to VW and the TD1 flag is thrown. BTW, that flag does not exist on your cars ECU, it is a flag in the VAG database.
• The detection software compares how many times the car (ECU, TCU, etc) has been flashed by an authorised VAG dealer and repairer using the VAG system with the number of flashes on your car. If there is a mismatch, TD1 is thrown.
• There is some debate whether or not the flash counter can be reset. Even if it can be, it has to be sent to the value that VAG have stored in their database.
• Also, as Tigger mentioned, the VAG software also searches historical data for anything that indicates the engine or drivetrain was operating outside of standard parameters. If detected, TD1 (or other codes) are flagged.

There are not many tuners or companies who will "guarantee" they can set the ECU back to stock in an undetectable state. If they do, get a rock tight agreement that they will cover the cost if VAG baulk under warranty. Good luck with that. My mantra is that if you tune it, be prepared that VAG will know and you could be up for expensive repairs with an engine or drivetrain failure.

If you do tune your car, be prepared for VAG to assert that any warranty claim is due to your modifications. Whilst by law the onus is upon them to show reasonable cause that the changes you made contributed to the issue, they have a large legal team and are good at minimising their liability. They also have time on their side - you want the car repaired quickly, and they can drag it on for ages. I've been modding cars for ages (admittedly Subarus not VWs). I find that, for warranty claims, if you are reasonable and open with them, they will generally repair warranty claims without too much fuss that are obviously not related to your modifications. If you try and hide your mods though, they generally then assume you could be hiding additional info.

I tell the dealer straight up what I've done. And I only take it to the dealer when I absolutely have to

[Entheos]

My goal is going with APR to achieve power improvement (doesn't need to be insane) + crackle/pop tune. Do I need to go to stage II to be eligible for the crackle+pop tune? I read on the APR website that I need Stage II+ in order to apply that tune.

Correct - you need Stage 2 tune for pops and bangs.

For Stage II, can I get away with APR DP + Tune or is it recommended to upgrade the turbo too (i.e. Stage II with stock turbo is too much strain?)

Stage 2 is designed for use with the IS20 turbo. If you get the IS38, you should get the Stage 3 tune.

3) Is a DSG tune also needed with Stage II or just recommended? Does this tune create fast shift response times? I find when I use paddles it is super laggy (I'm basing my experience from BMW DCT, though not like for like).

Tigger's response is spot on. It makes "D less conservative and S mode a little less spastic". However, you need the TVS Stage 2+ (or equivalent) tune to do this. Stage 1 and 2 TVS tunes change the clutch clamping pressure and a few other things - the remapping of how D and S modes work is 2+ onwards.

I have 6,500km on the clock with 14months of ownership. Is now okay for a tune, or should I wait a little longer for the car to run stock?

The car is run in and so is all good for tuning. Regarding warranty - see my earlier post.

[Ozsko]

There are still times when the stock parts are known to be faulty/problematic and in this instance it’s not so clear cut.

Also it may be non-driveline related (e.g. water pump) and some people prefer to have the car at the dealers in stock form so 1) it doesn’t get flagged 2) genuine warranty work goes smoothly.

You may also want to return the car to stock when trading the car in and the new buyer probably wouldn’t want to get it flagged up if it’s still in warranty so it’s not an unreasonable thing to do.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was referencing the question of how to present the modified car so the dealer does not detect the mods for a warranty claim. To want to do that is deception whether a claim is made or not and if a claim is made knowing the mods caused it then it goes into theft and whatever else you can call it. Clearly if the question is asked then the risk of being caught is being assessed and all the excuses in the world do not change that fact. If you want to modify the car then you need to accept the consequences and if the dealer accepts the mods and still pays the claim then the dealer is a fool and gets all he deserves.

[INASNT]

did you mean hp? or possibly kg?

As Tigger said... It made massive pops and bangs, could hear it from blocks away..

[INASNT]

Correct - you need Stage 2 tune for pops and bangs.



Stage 2 is designed for use with the IS20 turbo. If you get the IS38, you should get the Stage 3 tune.



Tigger's response is spot on. It makes "D less conservative and S mode a little less spastic". However, you need the TVS Stage 2+ (or equivalent) tune to do this. Stage 1 and 2 TVS tunes change the clutch clamping pressure and a few other things - the remapping of how D and S modes work is 2+ onwards.



The car is run in and so is all good for tuning. Regarding warranty - see my earlier post.

Can do pops and bangs with stage 1 tune, pops and bangs is retarding the timing when your off the throttle, but the stock downpipe muffles it mostly.. Did it on mine but could barley hear it.

[franjae]

To the tuning gurus here, supposing I’m finding the gearbox a tad slow in kick down around town, would getting a Stage 1 tune improve drivability? I drive like a grandma, so not interested in high end response. Want all the torque low down. The old BMW 335i motor had spoilt me somewhat. What to do? Cheers.

[tigger73]

To the tuning gurus here, supposing I’m finding the gearbox a tad slow in kick down around town, would getting a Stage 1 tune improve drivability? I drive like a grandma, so not interested in high end response. Want all the torque low down. The old BMW 335i motor had spoilt me somewhat. What to do? Cheers.

There’s a few options:

1) The ECU learns your driving behaviour and adapts. Find a quiet road and give the throttle/brake rapid/quick changes. Fast on the throttle, quick change to braking, back quick on the throttle. The sharper and quicker you can do this the better. After a short drive of this style the gearbox should “wake up”.

2) Buy a throttle controller that remaps your throttle. Works similar to above.

3) Get an ECU tune with remapped throttle (custom tuners can do this for you)

4) DSG tune will also fix a “lazy” gearbox - will engage gears quicker and shift better in D


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk