I think there might be something to this. Combined with a massive rear muffler and under-car exits this is likely not helping the sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hole46
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I think there might be something to this. Combined with a massive rear muffler and under-car exits this is likely not helping the sound.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hole46
How is a GPS monitor accurate to 0.01 sec ? I find that hard to believe as civilian GPS are not that accurateQuote:
Originally Posted by Melbourne_Tiggy
"GPS-enabled smartphones are typically accurate to within a 4.9 m (16 ft.) radius under open sky. However, their accuracy worsens near buildings, bridges, and trees.
High-end users boost GPS accuracy with dual-frequency receivers and/or augmentation systems. These can enable real-time positioning within a few centimeters"
GPS.gov: GPS Accuracy
Thanks for sharing this link.Quote:
Originally Posted by FastMitch
You are comparing apples and oranges. The quote you refer to above is for a smart phone, which typically operates at 1Hz. In simple terms this means the GPS is based on one position update per second. Comparatively, a more sophisticated device requiring greater accuracy for measuring speed/time would utilise 10Hz, 10 position updates per second.
Take a look at this pic which illustrates this concept:
http://racing.qstarz.com/Products/pr...ntent-pic3.png
I have both daggy and vbox and they are used extensively and reliably by Motorsport enthusiasts, car companies and reputable car testers. There have been many tests of these devices, comparing its accuracy vs drag strips 1/4, 1/8 and these GPS timers have proven to be highly accurate.
I know these aren’t perfect measurement devices, however for the cost they are bang for bucks and in particular the Dragy allows comparison of your car with other cars, so helps as a tool to gauge if mods are improving times.
Some people like dynos, and like to compare power/tq numbers, but this method also has a number of variables and issues with accuracy and comparison.
My two cents is, don’t get to caught up in the numbers. Fine, take some measurements, my choice is dragy and vbox (you could dyno, but this is expensive) and work out whether each mod is indeed enhancing performance. But other than that enjoy the experience and the time modding your car. It’s priceless seeing the look on people’s unsuspecting faces, when a Tig takes you at the lights :)
+1 what Melbourne_Tiggy says. Unless you're going to a track chasing times then who is really going to know/care. I do a mix of dyno and GPS timed runs on the road. Nothing is perfect and for those wanting hard "proof" unfortunately you're never going to get it. In the real world there are too many variables to get direct comparison/absolute hard and fast numbers.
The biggest thing for me is to choose your testing method and look to keep as many parameters constant as you can. Run on the same dyno or road in the same conditions and hoipefully the main thing that changes is the mods/tune on your car.
I'm not about chasing a particular time (although bragging rights are good). For me it's similar to Melbourne_Tiggy having an unassuming sleeper and surprising people. It's funny how peoples tune changes from "why are you driving a shopping trolley" to "what the hell is in that thing!!!". Some interesting conversations and usually some new levels of respect usually follows.
Question for those that have tunes done to their cars, how do you find stock brakes to perform with all the extra power and speed, are they good enough or is there a need for upgrade??
Already on my list. Even stock I'm not really happy with how they pull up. I may look at upgraded pads/rotors to see if that improves things enough. Otherwise it'll be on the long list...Quote:
Originally Posted by LJ1981
First stop would be pads, the Tiguan rotors are big enough to disperse heat. Just the pads are quite possibly the overall let down with a small operating temperature range.
If anyone knows what pads it takes, and if I can find a match with Intima I can possibly hook you up with a set for testing, however you'll need to social wh0re the pads.
I used to co-own Intima Brakes Australia however have sold my entire share to my ex business partner.
Also FWIW slotted rotors and/or cross drilled do not aid into better braking performance. All a marketing ploy, however they do look good so people upgrade based on looks.
On my track car, I run non slotted DBA4000 T3 as they disperse heat better than the OEM rotors due to the kangaroo paw design, increased surface area in the cooling channels.
**** edit
Intima doesn't have them nor are they bringing them inBendix code is DB2383 (avoid Ben****, crappy overpriced pads)
Elig has both 0-400 and 0-600 pads, in stock right now in Sydney (I know the supplier/importer)
Remsa code is 1515.01
Under what circumstances are they inadequate on the road?Quote:
Originally Posted by tigger73
General feel of the brakes. I’d prefer them to bite more. The stock brakes don’t grab with the feeling that you’re being hauled up. You need to really stand on the brakes to get them to pull up.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozsko
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I find the stock pads are good, however once you start to get the rotors hot they turn to ****.
I chased a few mates in their Silvias through the Old Pacific Highway (all 3 stages of the touge) and smoked the pads lol.
I think Tigger73 prefers pads with a good initial bite ie higher coefficient, however I prefer a good range (like a good track pad). Different driving styles different requirements. Also need to factor in heat range too.
The greater the coefficient and heat range, the faster rotors wear down and also pad life diminishes faster.
OEM pads are designed to allow good rotor, good operation at low temperatures. Lucky we live in Australia so it rarely gets below 0 in metro areas.
Anyhow read up about Elig pads, I can get them direct.