I have ordered/received my New Tiguan

[hcvo1]

I was able to purchase under a fleet discount which ended up to be the following.... now the long wait begins.....

MY17 Tiguan 162TSI Highline 7SPD DSG

Vehicle Price (excluding GST) : $ 44,081.81

• Driver Assistance package $ 1,818.18
• R-Line package $ 3,636.36
• Panoramic Electric Glass Sunroof $ 1,818.18
• Protective Strip Tailgate $ 165.00
• Sunshades $ 330.00
• Pure White - Colour $ 0.00
• Dealer Delivery $ 795.00

GST $ 4,929.45

Subtotal With GST & Discount $ 54,223.98

Stamp Duty $ 1,815.00
Registration Type Private $ 395.00
CTP $ 623.00

Total $ 57,056.98

That's a fantastic deal!

[Flipper Dog]

Hi all,

I am happy for you to use my name as a contact reference. I understand these car brokers deal Australia wide so I will give you both company’s details. Also they can only present what they are offered from the dealers they put the tender to, so every “deal” is independent of previous deals.

I went with Lloyd because he came in the cheapest. I was also able to "knock an extra $104 off as I went with standard plates and not Premium plates. I did this because I already have a set of personalised plates that I will be "swapping" after taking delivery.

Also with regard to your X-Trail, if you can afford to buy the Tiguan before you sell the X Trail, selling it privately will be your best option.

If not, then I suggest you explain to bothese brokers that you are looking for the cheapest changeover price giving them all the needed details of your XTrail.

I think you will be plesantly surpised.

To give you a guide, the 162 TSI in my signature will cost me $51,783 drive away in NSW. My previous details can be found on page 48 of this thread.


Lloyd Wilson
CarLoans.com.au
Tel: 1300 719 925
Email: Lloyd.wilson@carloans.com.au

Christopher David
Nationalcarbrokers.com.au
Tel: 1300 922 022
Email: cdavid@nationalcarbrokers.com.au

I suggest trying both as they may deal with different dealers and maybe this time Chris David may come in cheaper.

Please keep us posted on the outcome. The more we as a community know, the better "armed" we are to get the best possible price at the time.

Good luck.
David

Just a work of advice with going through a broker, detail all your requirements via email and then have them confirm via email what you have ordered. I just had the experience shopping for a family member who had narrowed it down to 3 vehicles. One of the above brokers provided me quotes in the wrong state which was about a grand more with ORC and then once the quotes came in had the compliance plate (which I had stated no more than 2 months old) being almost 12 months old. Another went out to find me a car with a similar name but from another manufacture. When corrected the country dealer which had the best price wanted delivery charges above the RRP.
At the end of the day I found them a waste of time when we worked out the exact make, model, colour, options pack and age of the vehicle we were shopping for. Being able to go to dealers and sit on a price willing to pay worked for us.

[REXman]

Just a work of advice with going through a broker, detail all your requirements via email and then have them confirm via email what you have ordered. I just had the experience shopping for a family member

Yeah that's kind of weird. Must of been a real monkey. Similar name different manufacturer is unbelievable.

[REXman]

Model year cars in Germany are already built for the following year from September (which is what I remember from Porsche). The vehicle data of my 2017 Tiguan 162 R-line say "production date 2016-10-18" and "Model year 2017". The thing you're after is registration date, registration in 2016 makes it a 2016 car, registration in 2017 makes it a 2017 car. My car is arriving in the last week of December, so I wait until the new year has begun before picking it up/having it registered.

I'm pretty sure date of manufacture is the money play.

[Delewin]

Hi Flipper Dog,

I agree with you with regard to knowing exactly what you want to buy. Basically a new car is just a pretty box, just like a brand name computer or washing machine, just more expensive.

When you are at the Car Dealer's place, you are in their territory and you are at a disadvantage. You are emotionally attached to a piece of metal and the Dealer will take advantage of that attachment.
I spent the time looking, feeling, driving, evaluating, then took each Dealer’s business cards and told them I will be in touch. This way, I took control of the purchase, or at the very least, we were on even ground.
Unless there is an absolute deadline that you must buy the car you make the timing. You arm yourself with as many serious quotes as possible. The salesman can recognise a “tyre-kicker” and someone with a check-book / Credit Card in his hand.

Do your homework. Test drive as many different brands and models in your short list and decide on the box and what extras you wish to add in to make it as close to "just right" as possible.

You have nothing to lose by ringing up and getting a quote or 2. I did that and was interested in the following outcome:
1. Broker A quoted $52,700
2. Dealer B (the one I took 2 Tiguans (132 TSI & 140 TDI R-Line) and a Passat 206 R-Line for a test drive) actually came in at $52,400
3. Dealer C Did not want to put a figure forward, he just kept asking me what I wanted to pay and when I told him, he said that I would have to raise my offer.
4. Broker D came back with $51,887 which I accepted. (My cost splits are exactly the same as Spacetoaster's above except that I did not get the Sunroof or R-Line options)

I subsequently reduced the figure by a further $104 by swapping out Premium Plates for standard Plates.

I think you can, like I did and use the Brokers to set a lower limit. If a Dealer can better it, then good luck to you. Go for it. If not, then you still have the lowest price at the time.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Regards,
David.

[Spacetoaster]

This was the first time I used a broker and was presently surprised with the deal I was getting without doing too much work.

I was at the time (late Nov) choosing between a larger new CX9 and the Tiguan.

So I went to a few dealers with my bargaining pants on. All VW dealers only budged a bit specially being a previous customer of one dealer and only got around 60k as the best price in the end. Same story with the CX9 only a few grand off at the most.

The wife thought the CX9 was way too big and just loved the way the tiguan looked(I totally agree with her for the first time 😄&#128516.

So we took the hard work to a broker after hearing great things from friends. Within 48hrs of telling them what I wanted. We got a final price of $57056 for the Tiguan and $61000 flat for the CX9 ($69404rrp)

Didn't bother going back at any dealers afterwards and signed the contract.

[Frogasaursas]

Anyone know the repercussions for cancelling your order? I know it probably varies dealer to dealer but would they keep your deposit? The contract is typically indecipherable for someone who speaks English and not Lawyer.

Essentially I'm thinking of cancelling and going with a much cheaper dealer/possibly upgrading to R-Line.


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[Delewin]

Hi Frogasaurus,

You are right about needing a lawyer to decipher the fine print of any cancelation clause.

If you could scan the purchase contract part that relates to cancellation of contract and post it here someone may be able to assist you in a more definite way.

But on the surface, you will kiss your deposit good bye.

It may be worthwhile contacting your Dealer and put it to him that you want to upgrade to the R-Line version but he will have to match the deal you have from the other supplier.

He can then weigh up:

1. Losing the sale and keeping the deposit.
2. Keeping the sale and with potentially more profit for him.

You then can weigh up:

1. Losing your deposit and going with the other supplier. (This obviously will add your lost deposit to the new (lower) quote to arrive at a net actual cost.)
2. Staying with your original dealer with the R-Line upgrade. (This could be cheaper than option 1.)
3. Stay with your original contract and enjoy the car when you get it.

Good luck,
David

[Gladbach]

Not sure about yours, but my contract is subject to a test drive, so as soon as an 162 is available I could cancel my contract after taking one for a drive. This is pretty common for pre orders where customers haven't actually been able to drive the model that they are ordering in advance. Failing that, there is also a get out clause if they can't meet the ETA within a month of what is stated on the contract.

[Bassik]

I learnt to always instate a clause regardless of whatever decision you make. You need this in the off chance you want to cancel or take your business elsewhere


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