Golf R exhaust valve wiring guide

[Jonno]

Hi,

I thought I would share some info about how I wired up my Golf R valves in an attempt to keep it looking as factory as possible. I wanted to be able to operate them by a on/off switch in the console as opposed to selecting different modes which I also thought would be a much simpler way to set it up.

Now just a quick disclaimer- I'm not saying this is the best way to do this, this is just how I did it. Although it isn't an overly complicated install, I'd recommend not attempting it unless you have had experience with this kind of work as there is always the chance something will get damaged. This also isn't a step by step how-to, more of a guide to point you in the right direction. My Tiguan is a MY17 162TSI R-line, other models may have different switch sets which operate differently to mine.

First we need a button. If you pop the shifter cover off you can remove the switch set on the passenger side to modify the blank switch into an operating one. All the hardware is in there, the button just needs to be modified to allow it to be pressed.



Carefully remove the red cover on the bottom of the switch then pop out the circuit board, the rubber seal then the button can be removed through the top of the switch set and the 2 parts of the button separated. Small flat head screw drivers and steady hands will be required to do this.



From there with a bit of trial and error (and a dremel) the plastic stops can be removed. I basically just removed little bits at a time that looked like they were preventing operation until the switch moved as it should.



Also while its apart use a multimeter to test continuity between both sides of the switch pads circled and the pins, one side will be a common ground and the other side will be individual to that switch- make note of this pin because this is the one we will be using.

This is the pinout (on the switch) that I came up with- looking at it with the latch for the connector on the left (or using the numbers cast into the plastic) mine were as follows:
1- Common Earth
2- Backlight +
3- Switch 4 Output
4- Switch 3 Output
5- Switch 2 Output
6- Switch 4 Orange LED
7- Switch 3 Orange LED
8- Switch 2 Orange LED
9- Switch 1 Output
10- Switch 1 Orange LED



Put it all back together but don't refit the top of the button yet- find a laser engraver near by and take it to them with a jpg of the image you want on there.



Put the switch set back in the car, find the wire in the connector that was individual to this switch, confirm it is correct by confirming the voltage on that wire changed when the button is pressed then cut the wire and join on a long length of wire to the switch side which will be run to the back of the car. Hook a multimeter up to this wire and confirm continuity between it and earth only when the button is pressed.



Next remove the glovebox so we can find a voltage source. Test the spare fuse slots and find one that is only active with ign on. Put a male spade terminal on a wire, then a fuse holder with a 20A fuse in it then run that wire into the rear of the car.

From here we will need to make a circuit that will convert our momentary earth switch into a latching earth path for the solenoids. For this we will require 2 standard relays and 1 latching relay. I used a Red Arc latching relay which is available at Repco

Latching Relay - Chopper Relay Flip Flop | REDARC Electronics

Unfortunately this relay needs 2 B+ inputs to operate and 2 earth outputs. It also needs a switch on the B+ side which isn't what we have in the console. It also is unable to earth the solenoids in the way we want it to so a relay circuit needs to be used to make it work.



Relay 1 is a standard relay which we use to convert our earth switch into a B+ switch for relay 2.
Relay 2 is the Red Arc Latching relay which converts our momentary switch into a latching switch.
Relay 3 is used to open and close an earth path for the exhaust solenoids.



Get 2 connectors part number 4F0973703 to connect to the valves. I ran the wiring from the relays through a grommet in the floor on the LHR corner of the cargo area and wired it all in!

All going well you should have have operational exhaust valves!

*Update 16/05/21- Added switch pinouts

[iDiesel]

Nice work!
any videos of the exhaust working

[tigger73]

Great write up. Almost has me inspired to get mine wired up and working.


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[Jonno]

Nice work!
any videos of the exhaust working

Haven't actually taken any showing the comparison of the valves open/closed- will try to get something this weekend.

Do have a video from when I was testing the system with the muffler in the back of the car though, you can hear the valves move after the button is pressed.

https://i.imgur.com/tSd9fgn.mp4



And a video of the exhaust with the valves open. Keep in mind my Tig has a Catted 3 inch downpipe, Res delete and a map that promotes a few crackles
https://i.imgur.com/jVlVo1y.mp4

Edit: Couldn't get the videos to post direct but hopefully the links work!

[lolcats]

Very tidy work mate! Would love to do this myself...

What’s a good amount to pay for a stock Golf R exhaust? Would it be worthwhile getting the whole thing including the dump pipe, or just the cat back? I know the geometry of the cat back exhaust is different, but presumably as we can fit aftermarket ones made for the Golf R, the stock one would fit... question is, is the stock Golf R dump pipe higher flow / better than our stock one?


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[Lacksballs]

Great write up, Ive got a 2020 Dec delivery R Tiguan that Ive fitted the Golf R exhaust. I have also done the switch mod but the pin out I have identified doesn’t have a wire in the plug can anyone confirm or have I the wrong
pin

[Jonno]

Great write up, Ive got a 2020 Dec delivery R Tiguan that Ive fitted the Golf R exhaust. I have also done the switch mod but the pin out I have identified doesn’t have a wire in the plug can anyone confirm or have I the wrong
pin

Sorry for the late response, don't use the forums too much..

I've worked out the pinout for the switch, looking at it with the latch for the connector on the left (or using the numbers cast into the plastic) mine were as follows:
1- Common Earth
2- Backlight +
3- Switch 4 Output
4- Switch 3 Output
5- Switch 2 Output
6- Switch 4 Orange LED
7- Switch 3 Orange LED
8- Switch 2 Orange LED
9- Switch 1 Output
10- Switch 1 Orange LED

So the pin you've pointed out is correct, interesting you don't have wires in the connector, mine did but they just didn't do anything so I cut and used them.

[Lacksballs]

Thanks, all works as per write up.

Just struggled to verify the PIN numbers on my exhaust motor plugs.
12v + pin 1, Neg - pin 3. Neg - “trigger” pin 2.

Pin 1 has the round end & key above

[lolcats]

Thanks, all works as per write up.

Just struggled to verify the PIN numbers on my exhaust motor plugs.
12v + pin 1, Neg - pin 3. Neg - “trigger” pin 2.

Pin 1 has the round end & key above

vwimages/image.php?di=4M1F%5B/IMG%5D

Thanks for the update! I’d like to do this eventually. How does the exhaust sound? You all stock except for that?

Pics are dead BTW.


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[Lacksballs]

To be fair only finished last night and went for a quick spin, it didn’t seem to make too much difference (between open & close).

I did recheck the motors and they are working, i’ll get out onto the motorway over the weekend and report back.

The exhaust motors default to open, after ignition off (3 mins or so)

Just ordered a new IS38 turbo, so tune & DSG tune next up. I didn’t see the point to tune before exhaust & bigger turbo.

As for exhaust note, you notice its more free flowing but its not noisey (I have left in the CAT & std down pipe)

I’m only looking for a mk7 Golf R / GTI tune, so 220Kw-ish.