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Thread: Cut vs. Reset aftermarket lowering springs

  1. #1
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    Cut vs. Reset aftermarket lowering springs

    Hi everyone,

    Looking to you experts for some informed opinions from you all on cutting vs. resetting aftermarket springs, specifically on aftermarket Eibachs.

    Are either of these two options feasible? Is one better than the other?

    The average response across various forums is that there seems to be more people wary of cutting springs rather than resetting springs.

    I've come across a few websites which state that there's no difference between aftermarket springs before and after the reset, however, this sounds a bit too good to be true.


    Going into specifics, the Eibach springs I've got just isn't low enough on the rears, as they currently sit about 20mm higher than the front. Because of that, i'm thinking of lowering the rear springs a further 10mm.
    Taking into account another 3mm? of settling, it should end up close enough to even.

    As it's only a 10mm drop below its original intended height, would that negate any concerns for the shocks/bottoming out more often?

    I'm not fond of coilovers as a solution because I don't want to lose the DCC.


    Cheers


  2. #2
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    I've got the Eibachs and while I see what you mean about the gap at the rear, I've noticed that in certain situations the rear may bottom out without anything in the boot.
    Personally it's not something I'd like to take a risk with.

    I did some research on KW coilovers and they do have a DCC compatible option, but you're looking at $4.5k not including install.
    I could never determine if the ride would be worse or the same if I went that route so stuck with the Eibachs.

    You could always look at bagged suspension.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
    I've got the Eibachs and while I see what you mean about the gap at the rear, I've noticed that in certain situations the rear may bottom out without anything in the boot.
    Personally it's not something I'd like to take a risk with.

    I did some research on KW coilovers and they do have a DCC compatible option, but you're looking at $4.5k not including install.
    I could never determine if the ride would be worse or the same if I went that route so stuck with the Eibachs.

    You could always look at bagged suspension.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    I too have looked into the KW’s. According to the local rep, the DCC compatible option just means it comes with the DCC delete kit. Was a disappointing day when I found that out!

  4. #4
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    Really? There is a version (an earlier one?) that was controlled by a mobile phone app, but I was sure that the one I was looking into was completely plug & play with the OEM DCC system.

    These are the ones I was looking at KW coilover INOX DDC P&P VW Tiguan II 4WD; Type 5N; Seat Ateca 4WD; Type 5FP

    KW blog about them here KW increasingly develops adaptive SUV Coilover Suspension Kits: DDC plug&play available for VW Tiguan II | KW Automotive Blog

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Never cut any springs, it changes the spring rates. On my first car a 1977 Ford Cortina I had the stock springs compressed, then cut the rears as it was not low enough, bad move..

    The H&R lowered springs I got dont have this issue. With 2 people in the car sits even nicer, with 5 and a boot full of things sits super low but has never touched or bottom outed even in comfort mode

    Cut vs. Reset aftermarket lowering springs-fb_img_1576562184691-jpg
    Tiguan Gen2 162TSI Etuners IS38 Stage 3 238.6 kw@4 wheels

  6. #6
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    What’s the drop on the HR your using?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2010 MY11 GOLF R - 5DR | DSG | RISING BLUE | DYNAUDIO + ACC + BLUETOOTH + 19s + RNS510 |

    2017 MY17 TIGUAN HIGHLINE - 5DR | DSG | PEARL BLACK | SUNROOF + DAP |

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
    Really? There is a version (an earlier one?) that was controlled by a mobile phone app, but I was sure that the one I was looking into was completely plug & play with the OEM DCC system.

    These are the ones I was looking at KW coilover INOX DDC P&P VW Tiguan II 4WD; Type 5N; Seat Ateca 4WD; Type 5FP

    KW blog about them here KW increasingly develops adaptive SUV Coilover Suspension Kits: DDC plug&play available for VW Tiguan II | KW Automotive Blog

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    You're absolutely right.

    Not sure why, but the DDC was never offered to me as an option - only the Variant 1's and 3's which come with the DCC delete kit.

    Either way, I agree, $4.5k doesn't seem worth it to me.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by INASNT View Post
    Never cut any springs, it changes the spring rates. On my first car a 1977 Ford Cortina I had the stock springs compressed, then cut the rears as it was not low enough, bad move..

    The H&R lowered springs I got dont have this issue. With 2 people in the car sits even nicer, with 5 and a boot full of things sits super low but has never touched or bottom outed even in comfort mode

    Cut vs. Reset aftermarket lowering springs-fb_img_1576562184691-jpg
    Good to know about the cut springs INASNT.

    Because the drop on the H&R and Eibachs are the same at 30mm, my only theory is that because the Eibachs are softer, they compress more at the front due to the constant weight of the engine. Whereas because the H&R's are stiffer, the front doesn't compress?

  9. #9
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    Cutting coil springs increases the spring rate plus, since there is less material to absorb the variable loadings, they have a shorter life span ie, prone to sagging earlier. Also cutting only works where the end coils are the same configuration before and after the cut. ie; they may not fit the spring seats. Cold cutting with an angle grinder is the cost effective method.

    Resetting the free height of coil springs (if done properly) doesn't change the spring rate or affect their durability. Eibach, H&R and others are cold wound springs using specific spring steel wire specified for cold winding. Resetting is accomplished by heating up the coils and compressing them while hot, then re tempering them to ensure a return to the spring rate. Not an easy process, requires expensive equipment and a lot of experience on behalf of the operator.

    It's not advisable to lower a vehicle without at the same time increasing the spring rate to compensate for the decreased suspension travel that is available after lowering. Hence resetting springs is risky, the lower the more the risk of running out of suspension travel. Cutting coils may prove to be the better option (provided they fit the spring seats) and will result in an increase in the spring rate. But in general the increase in spring rate is not proportional to the amount of lowering. It really depends on the diameter of the wire, the number of coils removed and the ID of the spring.

    The aftermarket spring manufacturers spend a lot of time and resources determining the appropriate height and spring rate. I haven't designed or even fitted any springs to a Tiguan so I don't know the specs, But having spent some time underneath one designing swaybars I seem to recall that the springs were not parallel in shape and hence probably not suitable for cutting (once cut they may not fit the spring seats).

    Cheers
    Gary
    Last edited by Sydneykid; 07-01-2020 at 02:52 PM.
    Golf Mk7.5 R, Volvo S60 Polestar, Skyline R32GTST

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDMJO View Post
    Hi everyone,

    Looking to you experts for some informed opinions from you all on cutting vs. resetting aftermarket springs, specifically on aftermarket Eibachs.

    Are either of these two options feasible? Is one better than the other?

    The average response across various forums is that there seems to be more people wary of cutting springs rather than resetting springs.

    I've come across a few websites which state that there's no difference between aftermarket springs before and after the reset, however, this sounds a bit too good to be true.


    Going into specifics, the Eibach springs I've got just isn't low enough on the rears, as they currently sit about 20mm higher than the front. Because of that, i'm thinking of lowering the rear springs a further 10mm.
    Taking into account another 3mm? of settling, it should end up close enough to even.

    As it's only a 10mm drop below its original intended height, would that negate any concerns for the shocks/bottoming out more often?

    I'm not fond of coilovers as a solution because I don't want to lose the DCC.


    Cheers

    It’s illegal, don’t do it (just in case you don’t know that).

    You’ll also invalidate your insurance.

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