One of the problems with the batteries is that since they're generally designed to run in cold climates, they fit additional insulation around the battery to keep it warm (battery capacity goes through the floor under cold enough conditions). However, where I am, it never gets that cold, and the hot temperature gives the battery extra cranking capacity at the expense of its service life.
The mechanic who replaced my Tiguan battery (first one failed just under 3 years old, was replaced under warranty) pulled the thermal insulation from the battery. A mate of mine with a Wolfsburg Golf had RACQ come out and do the same thing when they replaced the battery.
That said, replacement AGM on my Tiguan was quoted at around $350, so its possible to not have to pay $600. If its under warranty I'd be pushing it back to the dealer, regardless of 3 year or 5 year warranty.
2012 TDi DSG Tiguan
2011 TDi DSG Octavia Wagon
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
Minesapint
what year and model Tiguan is and can you post here from Battery sticker brand and model number ?
Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
My previous three cars (non-VW and bought 2nd hand) all required a battery replacement around 7 years.
None had stop/start
I would expect anything less than 3-4 years not acceptable
2018 Allspace 162TSI R Line
Our Polo only used for short shopping trips and 4 trips of 100k a year was new Jan 2011 and still has original battery and starts first kick
In contrast in winter in NZ in an XF falcon taxi I had 2 that lasted 3 months only and they were huge tractor batteries. Heated rear windows killed them
2021 Kamiq LE 110 , Moon White, BV cameras F & B
Mamba Ebike to replace Tiguan
Its a 162 R-Line, picked it up new in March 2017. Intend to give the dealer a ring on Monday to see what they are willing to offer.
Sebang, Sebang...
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Hillbilly, Mazda petrol engines use spark to help initiate cranking, the diesels don’t. My car was a diesel. Also there is still a short time where a bit more fuel is used to increase revs and overcome inertia/friction forces, before an engine is idling efficiently.
It’s also No-ones place to tell another, whether they should or shouldn’t care about something. Please refrain from ever communicating to me your thoughts on my purchasing decisions. It’s just not the place for it.
Please do feel free to correct me- if you see something I’ve said is absolutely wrong. I enjoy learning and improving my understanding of topics. As a previous Mazda employee and vehicle user I am very aware of the systems used (for 2008 to 2018 models)- both advertised and actual. I’m sure you’re aware of the important difference between the two- in many aspects of life.
Cheers.
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