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Thread: R36 OEM Suspension

  1. #1
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    R36 OEM Suspension

    Sorry if I'm covering old ground, through a thread search didn't really help me. Here is my question.

    Did the R36 without DCC come standard with Bilstein shock absorbers? And were the R36 DCC shock absorbers from Sachs?

    I haven't had my R36 wagon long but running standard tyre pressures (39psi!) I find the low speed ride to be very busy and jiggly - and I'm coming from owning a Honda Integra Type R! Sure, it is wearing half-worn Bridgestone RE050a tyres (that I'm not crazy about) but given that I bought this as a "sporty" wagon, I'm wondering what others have done? Is it partly tyres? - I'm sure Michelin or Continentals would be an improvement). I realise that retrofitting DCC is not a (viable) option but wonder whether a set of (rebound) adjustable Koni Sports may be the ultimate answer?

    Any suggestions?

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    Quote Originally Posted by prn31 View Post
    Sorry if I'm covering old ground, through a thread search didn't really help me. Here is my question.

    Did the R36 without DCC come standard with Bilstein shock absorbers? And were the R36 DCC shock absorbers from Sachs?

    I haven't had my R36 wagon long but running standard tyre pressures (39psi!) I find the low speed ride to be very busy and jiggly - and I'm coming from owning a Honda Integra Type R! Sure, it is wearing half-worn Bridgestone RE050a tyres (that I'm not crazy about) but given that I bought this as a "sporty" wagon, I'm wondering what others have done? Is it partly tyres? - I'm sure Michelin or Continentals would be an improvement). I realise that retrofitting DCC is not a (viable) option but wonder whether a set of (rebound) adjustable Koni Sports may be the ultimate answer?

    Any suggestions?
    I have an MY10.5 with the R36 specific factory suspension and my shocks are Sachs. DCC is not R36 specific so the standard R36 specific suspension is a step above performance wise than DCC is in Sport, but will obviously be less comfortable than either DCC option. Keep this in mind.

    I run Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's and the car feels fine at low speed. Not toootally sure what you mean by busy and jiggly but the car feels excellent at any speed. I certainly have no desire to replace my shocks!

  3. #3
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    OP: Are you saying you have Bilstein at the moment? Confirm and then I can make some suggestions.

    I have run RE050A on the Skoda for the last 2 sets of tyres. I agree, the sidewall is fairly unforgiving compared to PS3 / PSS or F1A2. Contis have a very soft sidewall (generally they are 2 ply I think) but they tend to damage easier too.

    Interestingly, I'm getting a significantly better ride with 225/40r18 on 38psi than I did with 225/50r17 on 40psi. Maybe you can experiment a bit more with pressure.
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    Thanks Jakey and Brad.

    So R36s with DCC will be a little bit softer than a standard R36 even in Sports mode? That's interesting. I would really like to drive a DCC R36 in its different modes and see if I can tell the difference - I did drive one, but the owner told me he never touches the DCC.... I did drive a B7 V6 Highline and the difference between the various modes was noticeable.

    Regarding the jiggly ride, I mean low speed compliance. It is very firm, more so than my Integra Type R, which has Bilsteins. As far as I know my R36 is standard - so that means Sachs right?

    I think it is probably more a tyre issue. I couldn't believe that standard tyre pressure is 39psi, but when I dropped them I got rude messages from the tyre pressure sensors! I've had Bridgestones or my Integra and I've never been a great fan of them. Interesting what you say about the sidewalls of the Contis. I'm a fan of the Michelin PS3s (currently on my Integra) and I think I will put these on the R36 when the RE050As wear out - which won't be long.

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    You can reset the TPMS once you have setup your tyres to your desired pressures.
    Just push and hold the TPMS button next to the shift lever until you hear the tone, then its been set to your pressures.
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  6. #6
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    If you change your tyre pressure then you have to reset the tyre pressure monitoring system back to the new datum. The button is probably in teh glove box. The method is probably in the owners manual or google...

    I wouldn't go much below 36 around Sydney. Possibly stick with 38-ish up front & around 35-37 at the rear (unless you carry a lot of stuff).

    You might also check the centre-hub to guard distance in case the springs have sagged a bit much.

    Koni Sport might help - I run them on the Skoda & the initial compliance is really forgiving. I also run Eibach linear rate springs.

    Also, think about going to a 235/40r18 when you do the tyres (or are they already that size?)
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    Quote Originally Posted by prn31 View Post
    Thanks Jakey and Brad.

    So R36s with DCC will be a little bit softer than a standard R36 even in Sports mode? That's interesting. I would really like to drive a DCC R36 in its different modes and see if I can tell the difference - I did drive one, but the owner told me he never touches the DCC.... I did drive a B7 V6 Highline and the difference between the various modes was noticeable.
    Correct. The R36 springs and shocks setup is specific only to our R36's, and are more performance oriented (Firmer, basically) than Volkswagen's DCC. I have not personally driven a DCC car though so I'm not sure to what extent it would be different but the facts are it is, and I've seen a few people comment it's noticeable to some degree. I would guess the DCC part numbers on a Highline B6 Passat and an R36 B6 Passat are probably not even different.

    Quote Originally Posted by prn31 View Post
    As far as I know my R36 is standard - so that means Sachs right?
    Well, if you have an MY10.5 wagon like I do, yeah definitely Sachs is standard. It's a VW part though, but it's made by Sachs. You'll see both brands named on the labels so you could pull a wheel and visually check yourself, or just send your VIN to your dealer and they will tell you. I can't be completely sure it was Sachs across the whole R36 range but I'd assume it is.

    Quote Originally Posted by prn31 View Post
    Regarding the jiggly ride, I mean low speed compliance. It is very firm, more so than my Integra Type R, which has Bilsteins. ... I think it is probably more a tyre issue. I couldn't believe that standard tyre pressure is 39psi, but when I dropped them I got rude messages from the tyre pressure sensors! I've had Bridgestones or my Integra and I've never been a great fan of them. Interesting what you say about the sidewalls of the Contis. I'm a fan of the Michelin PS3s (currently on my Integra) and I think I will put these on the R36 when the RE050As wear out - which won't be long.
    As per kamold's comment holding the TPMS button (It's on the right of the gear lever not in the glove box as previously mentioned) would reset it to the new pressures but honestly I don't think the pressure is the problem. 39psi is correct if you're running the correct 235/40R18 tyres, placard says this and VW also say to follow your placard. Even a pro race driver at the VW track day I did said follow your placard for pressures.

    It's hard to say without driving your car, I personally don't feel it's jiggly or too firm, and I haven't seen this as a common complaint. I absolutely love how my car feels at any speed, it's the best car I've ever driven, I even prefer it to the Mk. 7 Golf R stock for stock! Everyone is different but you may want to get your car actually checked out, or drive someone else's R36, you may actually have something worn or failed if it's that bad.

  8. #8
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    Keep the tyre pressure in the high 30s, otherwise the tyres won't last 15,000kms.

    They do tend to crash over small bumps and joins in road surface, but they really come into their own out of the city, on the highways and in the twisties. Small price to pay, if you ask me.
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    While we're on the subject, watch the inside of your rear tyres too. These cars come cambered a lot stock and mine chews the rear inners long before anywhere else. I ended up getting it adjusted, hasn't negatively impacted the handling and I should see better wear now.

  10. #10
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    Right, I hear you regarding the DCC - it seems strange that it wouldn't be calibrated to the R36 tune, but it is a bit academic as a retrofit would never be financially viable. A set of Konis down the track would make sense, but I don't think there is an issue with the Sachs in my car (it is a MY10.5.)

    I think it comes down to three things:

    1. Tyre pressures - thought I'm not sure that a couple of psi would make much of a difference.

    2. The Bridgestone RE050a tyres - I don't like them. I'll replace those when they're worn with a set of Michelin PS3s and I'm sure it will make a positive difference.

    3. Rattles inside the car. This is driving me bananas and the main culprit seems to be the plastic cover for the amplifier under the passenger seat. I found this was completely off and after close inspection a couple of tabs are broken. I've refitted it but it still seems to be rattling at the front, so I've ordered a new one...

    I'm still getting used to my R36 - the roads around home are quite bumpy and I haven't really had a chance to stretch the R36's legs. Having said that my wife is certainly impressed. We have an old Ford Fairmont wagon (with modified suspension) that doesn't handle badly for an old bus but after driving the Passat she complained how loose the Fairmont felt.

    I bought the R36 rather than a B7 V6 Highline because it felt special - to look at and to sit in. The R36 is a much rawer driving experience but I've driven hard riding sports cars all my life - I just have to get used to a hard riding sports estate!

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