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Thread: R36 Brakes

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurobahn5 View Post
    Yeah, I see what you mean, they're probably be the same pad, part numbers get changed, superseded and updated all the time (to keep us on our toes!), have a look where it says Trade numbers: LD2887, and the '23914' appears on your listing and mine as well. Maybe I need to update my TECDOC software too ! I got mine supplied as LD2880 and went straight in. Who knows ? I can check with my supplier.
    Thanks.

    I heard Hawks pads are noisier, is that true? Also why the sensor deletion.
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  2. #32
    Not sure about noise, maybe so but heard they perform well as far as stopping power and temperature control. Hawk have a couple of different compounds available for a given model, such as the R36. The HPS series look good for me (bit of track) but they don't have the wear sensor prep...so mobs such as ECS tuning.com have a solution, you can buy the sensor delete, which is just a plug or something but stops the warning light coming up, can 't remember how much but it's only cheap. Just means you have to keep an eye on your pad wear the old fashioned way !

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by eurobahn5 View Post
    Just means you have to keep an eye on your pad wear the old fashioned way !
    Which you should do anyway as the sensor is only on 1 pad.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
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  4. #34
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    My turn for new rotors and pads front and rear. Car has 75k on the clock. I must say, that is pretty piss poor for an oem product. Quite disappointed that the rotors can't even be machined. In this day and age, nothing is made to last anymore is it. Hopefully aftermarket items last a bit longer. Has anyone used DBA rotors that weren't the flashy T3's? I just want something that looks OEM!!
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  5. #35
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    That's pretty normal from what I understand of most Euros.
    My front rotors were replaced by previous owner at 60k.

    Rotors are pretty soft and don't last 150k.
    Everything is a trade off between performance and longevity - same with tyres.

    I've got ATE OEM style rotors and ATE ceramic pads. No dust!
    Last edited by kamold; 29-07-2015 at 11:00 AM.
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  6. #36
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    Please share with me where you purchased from mate and how much? I don't mind if it is via PM either. I need to get this sorted pretty urgently as the left rear pad was pretty much grinding over the last two weeks.
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  7. #37
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    Jump back a few pages.
    I think Eurobahn are in Brissy...actually no, he's in Gosford. But can ship to you.

    http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...ml#post1132237
    Last edited by kamold; 29-07-2015 at 11:39 AM.
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  8. #38
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    ok, thanks mate. Yeah, ive tried phoning but there is no answer at the moment so hopefully he can help me out. Thanks for the heads up.
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  9. #39
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    Go to brakes direct in BNE. Get plain face T3s & A1RM pads.

    75k is pretty good. A lot of people only get 40k. It depends on the driver & where you drive. I'm at 160k and still on original pads / rotors but I did grind the lip off the rotors last year as it was causing pad knock-back & a longer pedal. I mainly drive up/down the motorway and rarely use my brakes.
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
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  10. #40
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    Thanks Brad. I gave them a call and they were quoting remsa pads with feemax rotors. Not sure on these so if anyone has any experience it would be appreciated. He was saying that the freemaxs are between the DBA plain street rotors and the T2 slotted's in terms of performance. I really only need them to perform as per what they have been doing for the last 75k as the car doesn't get raced.
    I also was talking to a guy from race brakes in Sydney and we were talking just the plain DBA street series rotors with hawk ceramic pads all round. I have no experience with the hawk pads so again, if anyone has any experience with this combo, please speak up.
    Thanks guys.
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