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Thread: Anyone fitted a Haldex performance controller?

  1. #11
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    I have one with the wireless remote, mine is Gen4 being an MY10.5. My Haldex failed so I didn't go from stock to performance I went from FWD broken traction control nightmare to performance, therefore difficult for me to provide a good comparison. I will say the car handles fantastically and I have had no problems with it, subjectively it doesn't understeer much at all but hard to say how it compares to stock completely.

  2. #12
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    Before you buy definitely check to see what coupling you have on your car and check against what HPA recommends:

    Anyone fitted a Haldex performance controller?-haldex-identification-jpg

    I'm pretty sure the units that Harding would have are for a Mk6 Golf R - particularly if they're talking about the engine braking this was he competition controller only available for Golf R. There's a difference for R36 Passat as it's a different coupling so make sure you order the correct unit. There's at least 4 different variations of the gen4 Haldex controller so you need to make sure you buy the right one for your car.

    Personally I wouldn't worry about the switchable version (if you have a choice). Just get the fixed mode Race controller as most people that install one don't use the switch apart from a couple of times at the start so that they can feel the difference but then leave it in race mode as it's better.

    I had one installed on my previous Tiguan and there's definitely less tendency to understeer and is much more fun around tight corners/round-abouts. The car actually feels like a full-time AWD car as there's more power going to the rears more of the time. It'll give you a 50-50 torque split whereas the standard controller is definitely FWD biased.

    Keep your eye out as these do come up for sale second-hand every now and then but 80% of them are likely for Golf R's as that's the majority of the people that bought them.
    Last edited by tigger73; 28-10-2016 at 06:34 AM.

    2017 Tiguan Sportline - Tigger73's 162TSI Sportline

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  3. #13
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    Thank you to both Jakeys and tigger73 for your driving impressions. Having driven rear wheel drive cars all my life, I'm not enjoying 4Motion with extreme front bias. Actually, I'd be happy if my Passat was RWD only, although the rear drive shafts may not enjoy it! So a fixed-mode competition controller would fine for me - sadly these are available only in Gen 4 and my car definitely requires Gen 2 only.

    I've been trying to dial out understeer with springs, shocks and sway bars with only partial success. A Haldex performance controller sounds like a good step in the right direction.

    I read about another interesting variant on the remote vs. switchable options. That is to have the switchable version, but with the switch in the boot. As you say tigger73, apart from playing with different modes after you first install it, most people will probably leave it in "race" mode anyway. This variation also saves removing centre console, carpet, rear seat etc. to install.

    One question for Jakeys - does the wireless remote version stay in the last selected setting or does it revert to "stock" every time you turn the engine off?
    2007 Passat B6 3.2 litre V6 4Motion | Granite Grey | standard 17" Solitude wheels | tow bar
    Mods: R36 steering wheel | HP DQ250 DSG tune | HPA Haldex performance controller | Koni sports yellow shocks | Eibach springs | H&R sway bars | Whiteline ALK | Kufatec E-MFA add on | Garage door button | Warning triangle retrofit | Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003s

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3C4M Guy View Post
    Thank you to both Jakeys and tigger73 for your driving impressions. Having driven rear wheel drive cars all my life, I'm not enjoying 4Motion with extreme front bias. Actually, I'd be happy if my Passat was RWD only, although the rear drive shafts may not enjoy it! So a fixed-mode competition controller would fine for me - sadly these are available only in Gen 4 and my car definitely requires Gen 2 only.

    I've been trying to dial out understeer with springs, shocks and sway bars with only partial success. A Haldex performance controller sounds like a good step in the right direction.

    I read about another interesting variant on the remote vs. switchable options. That is to have the switchable version, but with the switch in the boot. As you say tigger73, apart from playing with different modes after you first install it, most people will probably leave it in "race" mode anyway. This variation also saves removing centre console, carpet, rear seat etc. to install.

    One question for Jakeys - does the wireless remote version stay in the last selected setting or does it revert to "stock" every time you turn the engine off?
    Not sure. It either stays in the last setting or it reverts to race setting, it definitely doesn't revert to stock or eco. tigger is right though, ignore the wireless controller, just get the cheapest option. There is no need to ever leave race mode, since the week I got it I've literally never switched it off.

    And just so you know, these will not give you RWD capability in any way. The VW Haldex is rear connected to front via a clutch, so the rears cannot spin faster than the fronts. You sometimes see people say that the Haldex can send more traction to the rear, but that just means the fronts are free spinning at the same rate the rears are, like if the fronts were on ice. They'll still all spin at the same speed, just traction is only being generated through the rear.

  5. #15
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    I think with the switchable version it's possible to switch it to race mode and then disconnect/remove the switch completely. Send an email to the guys at HPA and they'll let you know the best way to set it up.

    Or as you say just stash the cable/switch in the boot out of the way. I wouldn't be running the cable to the front and drilling holes in my dash.

    There's not a single driving situation where you wouldn't want to run in race mode so I'm not sure why they made these switchable anyway. It's a bit of a gimmick that just adds cost. Unfortunately in the gen2 controller you have to buy it with a switch unit.

    2017 Tiguan Sportline - Tigger73's 162TSI Sportline

    2016 Scirocco R, stage 1, 205kwaw (sold) - Tigger73's Scirocco R Build
    2013 Tiguan 155TSI, stage 1, 144kwaw (sold) - Tigger73's 155TSI Build
    2011 Tiguan 125TSI, Stage 2+, 152kwaw (sold)
    - Tigger73's 125TSI Build



  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by tigger73 View Post
    I think with the switchable version it's possible to switch it to race mode and then disconnect/remove the switch completely. Send an email to the guys at HPA and they'll let you know the best way to set it up.

    Or as you say just stash the cable/switch in the boot out of the way. I wouldn't be running the cable to the front and drilling holes in my dash.

    There's not a single driving situation where you wouldn't want to run in race mode so I'm not sure why they made these switchable anyway. It's a bit of a gimmick that just adds cost. Unfortunately in the gen2 controller you have to buy it with a switch unit.
    Again though I don't think you have to switch it to race mode, I'm pretty sure they default to race mode. But yeah as per my last reply I completely agree it is totally pointless ever running it in anything but race mode. There are no downsides to leaving it in that mode, the car will still not be engaging the clutch when cruising by design so there are no wear concerns. I bought the switch because it just came up at the time with it and it didn't cost me any extra, but if I was buying from HPA there is no way I would buy the switch.

  7. #17
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    I installed the Haldex controller over the weekend, really simple install and obviously went straight to the race mode setting.
    I've noticed the wheels skipping at low speed on full lock almost like the centre diff is binding, mainly car parks etc. I assumed that as more torque is being transferred to the rear this may be the end result. As soon as I switched it from Race to Stock it went away. Has anyone experienced this before?

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximumxposure View Post
    I installed the Haldex controller over the weekend, really simple install and obviously went straight to the race mode setting.
    I've noticed the wheels skipping at low speed on full lock almost like the centre diff is binding, mainly car parks etc. I assumed that as more torque is being transferred to the rear this may be the end result. As soon as I switched it from Race to Stock it went away. Has anyone experienced this before?
    Can't say I've noticed this before. It does this on even rough asphalt, not just like a slippery multistory surface or something? If so, I definitely don't get that and I know my performance controller is functioning in race mode from dyno oddities.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jakeys View Post
    Can't say I've noticed this before. It does this on even rough asphalt, not just like a slippery multistory surface or something? If so, I definitely don't get that and I know my performance controller is functioning in race mode from dyno oddities.
    It seemed to be more noticeable on flat, level surfaces. I'll switch it back over tonight on the way home from work and run a few tests.

    Thanks for the reply.

  10. #20
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    Subject to maximumxposure investigating the wheels skipping at low speed on full lock, it sounds unanimous that the "race" setting is fine for all situations and there's no reason to leave this setting. So installation would be even simpler if it's possible to not fit the switch at all. I'll check with HPA.

    For those who have car that needs a Gen 4 unit, the competition controller sounds one step better again. HPA say the competition controller is similar to the switchable controller when in race setting with the added advantage of "increasing the clutch torque when braking. By doing so, wheel brake torque is now transferred rearwards through the AWD clutch, offering a far more aggressive deceleration capability. Additionally, the Competition controller will support left foot braking without disengaging the 4-motion clutch ...".

    It seems logical to me to always "retain rear driveline engagement under braking". Why wouldn't you want this? Surely this would deliver better engine braking.
    2007 Passat B6 3.2 litre V6 4Motion | Granite Grey | standard 17" Solitude wheels | tow bar
    Mods: R36 steering wheel | HP DQ250 DSG tune | HPA Haldex performance controller | Koni sports yellow shocks | Eibach springs | H&R sway bars | Whiteline ALK | Kufatec E-MFA add on | Garage door button | Warning triangle retrofit | Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE003s

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