Orange peel removal or reduction?

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Originally Posted by mb1907953

Hey mate, out of interest, how much time would one have to put in just to flatten out some dodgy clearcoat work on a bonnet? I don't want a flat showcar finish but rather bringing it to factory finish at least. It's just like they didn't take care when spraying it so the texture of the clear is not only bumpy but almost rough....

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Yes, that's what I meant when I posted

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Originally Posted by kaanage

I wouldn't expect to get my car dead flat like a show car but it would be nice to scrape down the peaks halfway to the valleys - I reckon that would make the paintwork look so much better (stupid dark paint :mad:)

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after Wolfgang's post.

From what I've read, the CarPro pads that I linked to are made for this purpose, since they're much less flexible than a normal foam, wool or microfiber pad, but I'd want to practise on something other than my car, first.

So after doing a quick dent for a detailer this morning, I'm revising my answer slightly. He had those denim buffing pads that he thinks are quicker than sanding then polishing.
You can still expect to be doing a few passes on each section, and needing at least 1 more lighter polish/pad combo to finish up. Probably 2, since you are fussy enough to even be thinking about this

MB, I'd be giving the car back to whoever painted it if possible and making them fix it. If the paint is that dry there might not be much on there

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Originally Posted by QBDentFree

So after doing a quick dent for a detailer this morning, I'm revising my answer slightly. He had those denim buffing pads that he thinks are quicker than sanding then polishing.
You can still expect to be doing a few passes on each section, and needing at least 1 more lighter polish/pad combo to finish up. Probably 2, since you are fussy enough to even be thinking about this

MB, I'd be giving the car back to whoever painted it if possible and making them fix it. If the paint is that dry there might not be much on there

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Cheers for the help mate but unfortunately the car had the work done before I got a hold of it. It's not horrible but just enough to annoy me haha.

As others have said, trying to remove peel from a factory paint job isn't a great idea. Possible? Sure. Very hard work though, and a very long process. Ive been detailing for a couple of years and wouldnt attempt it... All you need to do is slip up once and then paint on that panel will be ruined.

Heavy buffing can flatten peel out a little, but to get 100% removal without sanding would take a very long time. Like weeks.

Some great tips in this thread though, I'm going to attempt to remove the slight peel from my car when I can find the time, it's been resprayed to a show level though with plenty of clear to play with. .

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I'm not looking for complete removal as there is no way to do that without reducing the minimum clearcoat thickness (the valleys between the peaks of the peel). The Carpro denim and velvet pads look like a good option to reduce the orange peel effect

Regular polishing won't do the job as the foam, wool or microfibers will cut into the valleys as well as the peaks, reducing the thickness of the clearcoat without greatly affecting the texture (it will reduce it a bit if the texture is particularly rough but you get diminishing returns as the peel peaks round off)

Anyway, when I have time, I'm going to try and find a practise panel and learn how to use the Carpro pads.

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Originally Posted by kaanage

I'm not looking for complete removal as there is no way to do that without reducing the minimum clearcoat thickness (the valleys between the peaks of the peel). The Carpro denim and velvet pads look like a good option to reduce the orange peel effect

Regular polishing won't do the job as the foam, wool or microfibers will cut into the valleys as well as the peaks, reducing the thickness of the clearcoat without greatly affecting the texture (it will reduce it a bit if the texture is particularly rough but you get diminishing returns as the peel peaks round off)

Anyway, when I have time, I'm going to try and find a practise panel and learn how to use the Carpro pads.

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Before you go removing any orange peel, even a small amount, you need to know who much paint you have on the panel. As I said earlier, the Denim pads are very aggressive, a lot more than wool, and it will be very easy to strike through. Plus, the Denim pads will remove clear from the peaks and troughs.

Also keep in mind if the panel has been resprayed over existing paint, it will be very difficult to get an accurate reading of the new paint that has been applied.

This will give you a good idea on the amount of work involved:http://www.detailparadise.com.au/sho...ven-Correction

Keep in mind it's the size of a shoe.

It nearly killed me but it was worth it. :P

Odd - the post here clearly show that only the peaks gave been removed by the denim pads and troughs have remained. I guess it depends on how far you go.
I will try to get paint gauge readings before attempting to correct an actual vehicle.

I don't understand the point that you are trying to make on the detailparadise link - the peel was sanded by the panel shop according to your first post (and you can see the sanding has left the troughs). Seriously nice work to get the car up to final condition, I must add.

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Originally Posted by kaanage

I don't understand the point that you are trying to make on the detailparadise link - the peel was sanded by the panel shop according to your first post (and you can see the sanding has left the troughs). Seriously nice work to get the car up to final condition, I must add.

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The link was to demonstrate how much work is involved in polishing a car that has been wetsanded. A lot.

Reading back I wasn't very clear RE the Denim pads, it depends how bad the peel is, if it's slight it will remove both, if it bad, like that Mazda, naturally it will remove the peaks first.

Your idea of practicing on a scrap panel is a good one, you can see how far you can go before doing damage.

Those denim pads are very interesting, might have to grab one and give it a try. Had planned on wetsanding by hand/RO, so a pad on the rotary would cut down on work a lot, if it does a nice job. I have a spare somewhat mangled fender and bumper to experiment on with the same paint as the rest of the car, one of the very few benefits of crashing the thing haha.

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