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Thread: DIY Luggage Rack

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Sydney
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    DIY Luggage Rack

    So I've been hunting around for a while for a good luggage rack for my car(s). After stupidly passing up a nice original VW one removed from a beetle ($300 AUD) & watching some rusted **** ones go by on ebay I decided to make my own.

    Sure I could have just bought one from the states but since my mate recently opened a metal work shop near me which gave me access to materials and a welder I thought I'd try and make my own. I like doing DIY stuff, so after some researching off I went.

    This is the one on ebay I should have bought, I like the suction cup design (although I'm finding out how difficult it is to find a bloody suction cup to suit a 16mm ID round tube (or any similar size for that matter);



    The unobtainium suction caps (if you know a supplier help a brother out!);



    ######## Making the bends / start of the frame ######

    So I decided on 16mm OD tube steel. It's cheap and around the right size, easy to work with etc.

    It does rust pretty quickly though once you are handling it with bare hands etc though, won't matter for this as I'll probably get it powder coated.

    I bought a 19mm 3/4 plumbers pipe bender off ebay (about $55) delivered next day, they are meant for copper pipe but can do this thickness steel. I did look at importing a proper tube bending from china (as local prices are stupid), but at the end of the day I needed to realise I may only be doing a few of these, I will however look at mounting this bender on a thick plate with a metal stand to make it easier and a 1 man job, I had to call my wife in to assist with holding the end to get the bend done. Got myself a tape measure and used some plastic flexible tube to work out corner lengths



    2nd attempt at doing a corner by myself, note the slight kink in the bar, that was the first attempt before realising i needed a better setup system to make the bend, I'll knock that back with a rubber mallet & I'm not to fussed with being 100 percent accurate for this proof of concept;



    Fast forward and I had refined my bending process by using clamps, timber to level it, and got the extension off my hydraulic jack handle to make the bending easier






    I duplicated the last shot to make the other side.

    Then onto some cutting of lengths and welding. I hadn't done any mig welding for at least 3 years since my brother and I built a car trailer, so I wasn't expecting much in the way of decent welds.

    Fortunately my mate was able to setup the mig pretty good which if you have welded before you would know that it's 75% in having the welder settings setup properly for your job/application.

    Mig welders are messy, my preferred welding is tig welding because it's so clean, but for this job I wasn't to fussed. But my mate showed me a good trick to keep the splatter mostly off the surrounding metal - Spray cooking oil in a can. You spray that stuff around where you are welding (but not on it), and the splatter beads off it rather than sticking and requiring clean up with the grinder later - handy to know).

    So anyway, did some cutting and welding and managed to get the 2 sides done. Way to much weld on them, should have just tacked around to avoid some grinding but overall not bad for a first time back in the game.



    1 side done



    2 sides done (will fix the corner that isn't 100 percent 90 degrees with a hammer).



    Ran out of metal & time at this point, but next step is get more material, work out my width again as these are going on my mk1 GLD, then get the cross bars welded in and off to the powder coater who I'm told will charge around $40.

    Total costs so far

    Metal - $30 (stuff my mate had lying around, would be more from a metal joint).
    Bender - $55
    Time - 2 hours?

    To Buy

    - More Metal
    - Suction Cups
    - Powder Coat - $40?

    Once I've done the frame I need to make these which should be a relatively easy. I think you can buy them but for the small amount of time to make them I might just do it "because". I have a tap and die set and can do some basic metal shaping so will see how it pans out.



    Will try and keep the thread updated if anyone finds it interesting.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Very clever.
    Have a look for "woods" suction cups. I use them to mount lights/reflection boards etc to cars. Pricey, but they'll just keep hanging on. They make a 4.5" one that should work for you

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    i'd be keen on one of these bad boys if you think you can replicate one for a reasonable price? keen to see shots of the finished product!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Erskineville, NSW
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    SUction cups -

    Toilet plunger end

    or look in the tiling accessories section at Bunnings, etc

    A specialist roof rack supplier

    There are truckloads if you google it. You might have to make a fill piece to bridge the gap between the tube diameter & the hole in the suction cup
    carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
    I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Be careful as the rubber end pieces will break down in sunlight and the metal will then work its way down to the roof.
    --


  6. #6
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    Dec 2009
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    Also, tube bends with less distortion if you fill it with sand.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Idle View Post
    Also, tube bends with less distortion if you fill it with sand.
    Yep, brings back memories of plumbing which was part of my engineering course way back in the 1970's! You can also buy spring coils that you thread into the tube to prevent it collapsing. You could probably hire them these days.
    --


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
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    Sydney
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    Thread Starter
    Wow didn't see these replies. Had access to a mig late in the day with only a bit of sunlight left so rushed to tack most of it together so I could get a look at it on the car



    Will make a few changes to design if I make another set, slightly wider and will look at making it so it can be flat packed for shipping.

    Not worth filling these with sand, not building a mandrel exhaust and the bends aren't to tight either. Been to bunnings for the rubber but they are quiet large in diameter, hoping to find a medium sized rubber so it can take the load. Have found a few places in the UK and sent off a few emails to see if they ship to Australia and if that makes it worth it cost wise.

    I might move onto the side attachment arms as I can do those without the need for a welder just yet. I'm using a metal rod from an old cot, and will find some scrap to cut out for the other section and shape the metal over the rod with my panelbeating hammers and dollys.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Sydney
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    Thread Starter
    Made some progress. Bought a mig welder with my brother, forgot how messy they are compared to a tig, but good for this job + general work. Heaps better welder than what i used to tack it up, had to grind back and break off most of the original tacks as most of the cross bars weren't straight due to having to rush.

    So finished welding, cleaned up welds and wire brushed the outer frames and got some etch primer on it. Also found a joint that sells some rubber feet, took a punt and they fit perfectly on a 16mm hole.




    I have started making the rods that will pinch against the roof lips to hold it on, once they are completed and I have given them a few coats of hammer tone paint they should be ready for use.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
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    Melbourne - SE
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    DUDE! looks insanely awesome, i've since moved on that rack that i showed you in our messages, was just waaayy too big and dont have the time to start cutting it up etc. anyway massive props man its turned out great!

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