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Thread: DIY: Headlining fabric replacement (pic intensive)

  1. #1
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    DIY: Headlining fabric replacement (pic intensive)

    Wrote this up in another forum, thought I'd put it in here too. Basically this is a DIY for those that need to tend to their roof headlining fabric, either to get it to stick on again or totally replace it with another. Also have a write-up for pillars and other plastic trim inside the car. This DIY was based on a Mk3 Golf but should be the same for all else.

    Materials:
    • Flapper wheel/Scotch-Brite/~180 grit sand paper
    • Dustpan brush
    • Sharp pair of scissors
    • Fabric of your choice (4x1.5m was enough to cover the headliner + A/B/C pillars of a Golf)
    • Hair-dryer
    • Spray adhesive

      One on the left is the one to get. $22.99/can @ Autobarn, was enough to do a complete Golf headliner with leftover. If you can find it, 3M Super90 or Super74 is also recommended (found Super74 @ Clark Rubber before).
    • Hot-glue gun (Spotlight sells a cheap one with 100 refills for cheap)
    • Patience, tolerance to finger-tip burns and beer (or Pepsi Max).


    Notes/tips:
    • Work in an open area. You'll have adhesive being sprayed everywhere and strands of hardened hot-glue all around, and the last thing you want is wrecking your new headliner with glue residue.
    • Work comfortably. This can take a whole day if it's your first time and while the job isn't hard, it can be a burden on your back.
    • Don't skimp on equipment. A decent pair of scissors would make life a lot easier. Same with the spray adhesives i.e. in the above pic, don't go with the one on the right. It may be half the price but it also means you get a lot less out of it and worse yet, your new headliner may end up falling sooner than you hoped.
    • When choosing your fabric, there are a few points to consider other than the design/colour.
      • Ideally the fabric should be fire-retardant due to safety concerns, but we all know safe = boring.
      • Thick fabric versus thin would hide imperfections more easily.
      • Stretchable/elastic fabric will be more easily shaped around contours and crevices, but if you're using a patterned fabric, this could create unwanted distortions.
    • If you're using thick fabric (e.g. backed micro-suede) you can also apply the adhesive on the fabric itself. DO NOT do this on thin fabrics though (like the ones used for clothes), as it can seep through and cause dark blotches.


    Step 1:
    Remove headliner. Depending on your car, you may have to remove some interior trim bits in order to release the headliner.

    Step 2:
    Remove existing material off headliner. If there is a foam backing that's still stuck on to the headliner, remove using a flapper wheel bit on a drill, Scotch-brite or sandpaper. It must be free of any old material/foam/glue.



    Step 3:
    Lay on the new fabric. Ensure you have at least 2 inches of overlap on all edges.



    Step 4a:
    This is totally dependent on you, but I've found that it's easier working from the rear-end of the headliner to the front. I usually split the headliner into sections.

    Always follow instructions given by whatever product you're using. Based on the instructions on the Permatex (orange can) spray adhesive, spray from about 8" away (a little below knee height if your headliner's on the ground). Be thorough with the application, and go over it twice. Let it sit for at least 2 minutes.

    Repeat this until at least the entire centre section of the headliner board is very well covered.

    Step 4b:
    More than likely the edges won't stick very well. That's fine - peel it off with a little force and respray these sections liberally. Also, this is your chance to carefully sculpt the grab handle crevices. Spray adhesive very liberally in these sections. Using your hair-dryer, heat the section of fabric that will cover the grab handle crevice. If the glue hasn't dried, help out with the hair-dryer.

    Work from the inside of the crevice, towards the side, then out onto the edges. I've found this method works quite well to keep the fabric in contour with the curves, even when I was working with the suede. If you feel air bubbles, peel it back and repeat the above. It's totally up to you whether or not to re-do it, but I can say it's well worth it once you get it right.



    Step 5a:
    There are two things you can do now. For the lazy, just cut off the excess fabric that is overhanging. For the fussy people, do the following instead.

    Trim off excess fabric on the edges, leaving 1-2" of overlap. Along these overlaps, cut tabs of trapezoids about 2.5" long. Those who used to cover their homework books in primary school will know what I mean Sorry I didn't take a pic of this, but the following is similar:



    For every uneven section, cut a new tab out. You need to maintain the original outline of the headliner board as close as you can so as to ensure all the clips/bolts will fit in place without obstruction. Reason for cutting the tabs only 2.5" long is because the hot-glue will end up hardening very quickly, so there's not a lot of working time.



    Make sure these tabs are long for grabbing on to.

    Step 5b:
    Time for hot-gluing. What I do is squirt a line of hot-glue along the edge of a tab where it meets the headliner, then pull the tab over and pinch in place. Then when the hot-glue has hardened, paste the entire tab onto the headliner board. Repeat for all the cute little tabs you cut out.



    We're getting pretty ****ing close to finishing now. Have a quick beer.

    Step 6:
    Cut holes where the grab handles, visors and interior light attaches on/threads through to the roof. Cut little tabs like in step 5a, and glue them on like in step 5b:



    You shouldn't be able to feel your fingers now.

    Step 7:
    To finish up, brush off any dirty bits and pieces that had worked it's way onto your new headliner. Now go and attach it back on to the car!

    Here's some finishing pics:





    Last edited by rayray086; 02-07-2009 at 12:01 AM.

  2. #2
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    For other interior trim, the same applies, but hot-glue will play a more important role than the spray adhesive.

    Also, you may want to buy some vinyl/plastic dye/paint for any bits that may be too hard to retrim:



    Step 1:
    Remove trim; make sure you label where the trim goes to avoid any confusion later. Remove any separate parts.

    Sand and/or thoroughly wash parts to allow for maximum adhesion.

    Step 2:
    Cut out a decent sized section of your new fabric. Better to be safe than sorry.

    Step 3:
    Spray adhesive on trim.

    Step 4:
    Lay the fabric over the trim. It's important to get the flat bits down first, THEN focus on the curvy sections. Don't worry if the edges don't stick.

    Step 5:
    Cut tabs like in previous post. Cutting tabs will also allow the fabric to stretch a little more - however, be careful in how much you cut.



    Step 6:
    Apply hot-glue like in previous post. Make sure you hold down on the fabric until the glue cools and hardens. If you don't, any stress on the fabric will cause it to ripple and make the end product less pimp.



    You can either stick the tabs on to the back of the trim like with the headliner, but with many trims, this might not be an option (due to fitment problems etc). If this is the case, what I usually do is hot-glue the fabric right onto the edge, then trim it off. This is where a really sharp pair of scissors will come in handy.



    Also, you will no doubt come into some tricky interior bits where the curvature is so steep that it's impossible to stretch over. There are many things you can do to combat this.
    • Use folds to cover over the curved sections.
    • Cut deeper tabs and cover the uncovered sections of the pillar with a separate fabric.


    At the time I could only think up of these two solutions. If anyone as any good ideas, feel free to share!





    Step 7:
    Cut through any holes in a similar fashion to that outlined in the previous post.



    Step 8:
    Paint/dye any separate sections. Follow appropriate prep procedures.

    Before:


    After:


    Cut off any fabric threads that stick out and brush off any bits and pieces stuck on. Assemble back together.

    Result!!




  3. #3
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    Pictures inside the car (Mickey's).






  4. #4
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    Nice writeup, the result looks pro.

  5. #5
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    =Yep you have done a great job there, I work for a large motor trimmer company who fit out new trucks and am impressed.

    If anyone needs advice on adhesives, fabrics etc, let me know.
    1993 MK1 CAB ! Work in Progress........

  6. #6
    nice write up, the car looks sweet. you done a great job
    Velly
    '91 2.0 8v GTI

    Quote Originally Posted by DubSteve View Post
    I have wood thinking about you

  7. #7
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    Another awsome and well written DIY from Raymond

    This is something I have been meaning to do for ages and keep saying I will. Will be alot easier with this in hand when I do tackle the god awful beige MK3 interior soon!

    | MY15.5 Mk3 Octavia vRS TSI | DSG | Black Pack | H&R Springs | 18" BBS RSII |

  8. #8
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    epic write up mate. red makes it go faster, ey mickey

  9. #9
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    great tutorial..

    now u gotta finish it off..

    tutorials for: Dash re-trim, Door cards and maybe seats

  10. #10
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    Excellent write up.

    I have just one question though. How do you take off seat belt slider button thing? I have a missing one in my car at the moment.

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