But even the decent stuff isn't that dear.
Retail on the ATE Ceramics is like $150, and about $180ea for the discs.
Plus maybe two hours for labour.
You can buy slotted front rotors for $300-$400, rear slotted for around $200, bendix front brake pads $70
But even the decent stuff isn't that dear.
Retail on the ATE Ceramics is like $150, and about $180ea for the discs.
Plus maybe two hours for labour.
Doing rear brakes myself now!
Most importantly, no need for VAGCOM or Ross-Tech software for EPB retraction, see here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAB43eO7wIs
Discs - DBA2807E | DBA Street Series Standard Brake Rotor Pair (rear - solid) - $157.84
Pads - REMSA Brake Pad Set Rear 1031 00 - $79.97
Last edited by DeepBlue; 29-11-2016 at 12:34 PM.
Let us know what a new caliper is worth.
I'd rather do it the right way and not break things.
The video seems simple, enough - my main concern however would be whether the control unit gets a "reset" signal triggered by a complete release of the EPB.
Doing it like this, the car potentially never finds out that its been reset. Only an issue if it monitors the EPB - but who knows; it could!
Also, the seal between the motor/gearbox and the caliper could get crud stuck in it. Not ideal for long term use.
2012 Octavia vRS TDI. Darkside big turbo, 3bar tune, other stuff. 200kW/650Nm.
1990 Mk1 Cabrio. 1.9 IDI w/ 18PSI.
1985 Mazda T3500 adventuremobile. 1973 Superbug. 1972 Volvo 144 in poo-brown.
Not including hers...
You need to basic set them to re-learn the end positions once the new pads are installed.
Did sound too good to be true and thought there would more than likely be an issue re-setting it like that. PM'd the "Southern Mechanic" a couple of times and he assured me no issues whatsoever - no issues with operation of the rear brakes and no fault codes displayed. Will keep monitoring feedback on his You Tube channel to see if anyone reports any issues in the future - have to say, so far so good! Lot better option than the alternative solution out there to put a 12V battery across the EPB servo motor!
Still might consider Ross-Tech but will see if the "Southern Mechanic" method catches on.
Think I'll steer well clear of TCD - was tempted, but too much of a bad smell about them: Toad Obd - customer service, Review 751640 | Complaints Board
Will save up a few $s and go with Ross Tech.
Deepblue: Good decision - made for the right reasons, I hope! Buyers who promote the fake cable industry are as complicit in IP theft as are the disreputable folk @ Total Car Diagnostic!
Don
PS: I have been using Ross-Tech gear for many years and I can thoroughly recommend their products. My trusty HEX-NET is ALWAYS my cable-of-choice. But if you are a newby to the field of diagnostic cables, then consider OBDeleven as a first-buy. OBD11 has many shortcomings compared to Ross-Tech, but it is a good entry level tool and it's very well priced (and it is not a fake)
Please don't PM to ask questions about coding, or vehicle repairs. The better place to deal with these matters is on-line, in the forum proper. That way you get the benefit of the expertise of the wider forum! Thank you.
Thanks for that! Will admit to using some pirated software in the past but 95% of the time I do the right thing - will always fork out that bit of extra dough to support smaller customer-focused companies like Ross-Tech in particular. Guy who runs TCD sounds like a Peter Foster clone - conman of the highest order!
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