Long Term Comparison: Passat R36 vs Passat CC V6 4Motion

[Elmura]

I'm a life long revhead and have worked for various car magazines in days gone bye. So, with that background, I bring you a long term comparo of the VW Passat R36 MY10 vs VW Passat CC MY12 V6 4Motion.
Note that some points are specific to features that are not standard but were useful to me in the comparison.

Summary:
I sold the R36 but am working to making the CC more like the R36 as it was more fun to drive

Comparison:
· CC Boot pops up much quicker
· CC Boot much easier to close (especially for missus & kids)
· CC Wheels are lighter and nicer
· Brake rotors are same size
· R36 calipers are painted (although the CC now has been) and front calipers are smaller
· CC Brakes are more progressive, less touchy
· CC Interior is more classy looking & feeling, and more updated
· R36 seats have large adjustable side bolsters that hug you
· CC Pedal alignment with right leg is more comfortable
· CC has RNS510 with GPS Navigation with POI / full functionality Bluetooth (audio, contacts, make calls) / built-in hard drive / ipod/iPhone cable dock input with full remote control from sound system, USB optional cable for USB memory sticks, and Voice Recognition
· CC plays DVD movies
· CC has better audio sound quality front and rear vs standard R36 setup (neither are Dynaudio)
· CC can read & play from large 32Gb SD cards quickly and easily vs R36 stutters and delays
· R36 Exhaust is deep & grunty sounding, with a nice growl when you get on it
· CC has adjustable adaptive suspension and rides much smoother, even in Sport Mode with the lowered Eibach springs fitted
· CC has foglights and, in my case, LED DRLs that double as indicators
· R36 has a sunroof – great for nice weather and summer nights, looks cool tilted
· CC is short one seat, however, for around $460, this can be added with a matching seat cushion & belt from Poland
· CC Tyre pressure sensors give you graphical display of all pressures vs R36 only tells you if any is too low without identifying which
· CC looks longer, is wider and lower – giving it a sleeker, sexier appearance
· CC side mirrors are stylish
· CC can reverse park itself
· CC has latest engine, DSG, Haldex & MFD refinements
· R36 will let you change up gear early, CC blocks upshifts @ <1600rpm
· CC throttle response not as good – likely due to longer gearing
· CC engine RPM drop slightly when taking off giving it a slight hesitance off the mark when gradually accelerating
· CC steering is not as sharp as R36, even in Sports mode
· CC steering wheel much thinner, but a little classier. Even the R wheel I fitted is much thinner but much sportier looking without losing the classy appearance.
· CC driver’s seat automatically adjusts according to which remote control is used to open the car
· CC auto locks doors when you start driving more quietly
· CC is lighter (likely due to smaller front calipers, lower roof line, lighter wheels and missing 5^th seat)
· R36 has shorter 6^th gear overall ratio leading to a more responsive drive. At 100kph, the engine is eager, sitting around 2400rpm (peak torque)


CONCLUSION
The CC looks, feels and behaves more modern and friendly. It's the crowd pleaser of the two. At full throttle, it goes slightly harder than the R36. However, even with the few mods done already, it lacks sporting driving pleasure attributed to the greater body roll, thinner steering wheel, quiet exhaust, longer gearing and non-body hugging seats.
So, on the cards, I've got wheel alignment, sway bars (anti-roll bars), centre suitcase muffler delete, the Elmura Cold Air RAM Intake mod, K&N filter, and possibly an exhaust bypass valve, highflow Cats. Maybe I'll find a thick multi-function steering wheel that looks as sexy as the R wheel with paddle shift extenders I've currently fitted.

[dero]

Was your CC standard fitted with the Dynamic Chassis Control and you lowered the springs on the car after the fact?

I've been trying to figure out if its possible to do so without a lot of additional recalibration work. My Passat I had optioned with DCC at purchase and have been considering if its possible to lower the springs to the car for a better look. What I haven't been able to find out is if it'd break the shock absorbers in doing so. As I understand, DCC has shock absorbers with an electrically controlled constriction valve. Sensors monitor the relative wheel position against the body to recognise whether there is body roll occurring against the corner. If excessive, it'll clamp the valve in the shockie and force a flattening out of the corner experiencing the body roll.

The thing that I've been puzzled with is if I lower the springs, would the sensors all of a sudden be measuring that all 4 corners are experiencing a level of body roll and therefore constrict the shock absorber's valves and keep them constricted throughout. Thus it could possible ruin the shock absorber and heavily affect the ride. I can't get anything definitive about this so have been hesitant in planning the lowering of my car.

[Elmura]

Dero, yes, my CC was fitted with adaptive suspension and then it was lowered using Eibach springs ~25mm lower. It is very comfortable in Normal and Comfort DCC modes. I keep it in Sport most of the time except when I hit a rough section of road.

No recalibration done. No problems with shocks (over 3 years old).

I'm still looking to get anti-roll bars and was today under the car to see how much work it is. The rears are easy swap for me. Fronts will have to go to a suspension mob to fit I think.

[Umai Naa!!]

Front is easy-ish to swap over.

You have to drop the subframe out, though. Rack stays in the car, struts stay in the car, lower control arms remain attached. Six bolts hold it to the car, two at the pendulum mount on the gearbox, there's one hidden 10mm bolt for the rack's wiring harness, two for the exhaust hanger, three for the rack itself (four if it's a really early build), three nuts at each end of the lower control arms on the lower balljoints, and one nut at each end for the swaybar links. You'll need to secure the passenger's side of the rack somehow so you don't damage the steering column.

Once the subframe is out, flip it over, and undo the four bolts that hold the swaybar in. Then repeat for the re-install. The subframe itself will need to go back in the exact same spot, otherwise you'll have tracking issues. However, you can shove it all the way forward for additional positive castor (good), and have a wheel alignment performed. The bolts holding the subframe in are meant to be single-use, but I've never had an issue re-using them. Up to you on that one.

On a two-post hoist, about an hour's work. On the garage floor, allow up to three.

[fluckaduck]

Totally agree on everything you've mentioned. I'll also add the mfd is more pleasing to the eye being a colour screen. Plus the CC has active cornering lights.

I've got the Eibach springs but it's from the Scirocco. I'm trying to figure out if they would fit the CC. Stock ride on the CC is just a bit high and feels too floaty for my liking, compared to the R36.

When I feel like going for a good squirt, I'll take the R36 out. But on most occasions, I'll drive the CC.

[Umai Naa!!]

Springs should fit, but they'll be a bit too soft due to the weight difference bewteen the two cars.

[dero]

Thank you Elmura.

I had thought that there'd be a problem but going from your experience I might put it back into the plan for my Passat!

[Elmura]

Umai Naa has a point with springs (thanks for the install advice). I'd like to add that springs not designed for your car may actually make your car sit higher or lower than desired due to weight differences. Worse it may bottom out or coil bind!

Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk

[dero]

Cheers.

I'll definitely be getting the springs intended/tested/shown for a rated amount drop.

[Passat R36]

They are basically the same car, only the tune is different.
They can have exactly same equipments if you option up.
R36 has active cornering lights too!