WOW, awesome setup Ben, once you get the tune to match you will have to update the thread.
Water Injection Setup for Golf R
Hi guys & girls,
Just thought i would share my water injection setup with you. Although i am only running Water you can run Methanol if you wish. Photos first, information after.
Ok so my setup consists of 2 nozzles. 1 smaller nozzle is placed just after the intercooler. I drilled and taped a hole in the intercooler outlet pipe and fitted the nozzle so it was flush with the inner diameter. This nozzle dramatically cools down the air going up the uptake pipe, most importantly it feeds the intake air temp sensor the information we want which is that the air is now super cool. This then tells the ECU "hey man its cool to run all that timing/boost we tuned into it".
The 2nd nozzle is placed in my specially made throttle body spacer. The best bit is i have made 2 different types. 1 for snow performance nozzles and 1 for devilsown nozzles (yes they are different) Anyway now my plug is over back to the story. The 2nd nozzle is larger than the first and this really feeds a lot of water/meth spray into the intake manifold which is fed down through the head into the cylinders. Note that having a main nozzle before the throttle body is not a good idea (some after market uptake pipes have a position for them) and it can damage the throttle body butterfly assembly and cause it to fail. Also note that i am using the stock uptake pipe.
Now i have nice cool atomized spray (super fine mist) going into my intake manifold. This dramatically reduces heat inside the cylinders. (up to -300degrees, "apparently") Protects pistons, gives more consistent power, more power by enabling you to run a lot more timing and or boost. (more power) on a stage 2 Golf R you can obtain up to 28awkw more just be running a similar setup.
The tank. 8.5 litre race tank. Baffled, 250psi pump attached to it and i have installed a float level sensor so i am warned on the controller when the level is getting low. How is it held in? With a custom bracket i made to hold the tank in place, this sits on top but is floating on the floor of the boot. I can still get my spare wheel out etc. Winning. How noisy is it inside the cabin? WELL, i cant hear it at all. It makes no noise.
Controller: Progressive boost controller. I have mine set to start coming on around 8psi which it starts feeding at about 20% duty cycle. Then by 20psi it is at 95-100% duty cycle and stays on 100% until the throttle has been lifted off or boost goes below 8psi. Power light, pump on light and level sensor light so its a fairly safe setup.
All in all i think this is a very neat and tidy setup. It serves its purpose perfectly and is a good value for money upgrade for anyone with a low to heavily modified setup. Especially in our hot climate.
Cheers
Ben
Last edited by Tarmac; 05-04-2013 at 08:24 AM.
WOW, awesome setup Ben, once you get the tune to match you will have to update the thread.
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Looks like a very neat setup.
This is basically designed to reduce loss of power from heatsoak isn't it?
That's a very impressive installation
If I had stage 3 I would definately do this also
(As I'm FWD I can't get all the benefits of stage 3 like a 4WD)
2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
APR Stage II ECU - APR 3" exhaust down pipe & high flow catalyst
APR/HP Roll bars - Eibach springs and Bilstien shocks
Supaloy lower control arms - Enkei 18*8 Wheels
Water injection is essentially to prevent detonation or pre-ignition.
Essentially, when the droplets of fuel ignite, there is an amount of energy required to burn the droplet, and any excess produced ignites adjacent droplets. This causes an flame front to advance. If too many droplets ignite, the flame front advances too fast and this causes a pressure wave. This pressure wave combined with the compression of the engine can cause a secondary source of ignition, and when the two or more flame fronts meet, you get the sound of detonation with a shock wave. It is this shock wave and the high associated temperatures that causes the damage.
Water injection introduces inert droplets and they absorb some of the energy as the water droplet turns to steam. Too many droplets and you can quench the flame and shut down combustion.
This allows you to have a high compression ratio but use a lesser fuel and extract maximum power. The methanol helps to produce the water droplets of the correct size as it is soluble in water.
Probably the most famous engine that used this was the Spitfire, and it was only used on take off.
Again this has to be used cautiously as you can damage the engine if things don't work out quite as expected.
Yes. Turbos create so much heat that you get robbed of power. This cools down the intake temp buy a lot enabling you to run a lot more timing.
Do it.
This isnt illegal Guy. I checked with Transport QLD. I am running 100% Distilled water. Not flammable.
No Methanol will be going in this tank. Although of course there is the option for racing to help aid in more heat reduction.
Great to see , I had a water injector system on my old 202 HQ one tonner , half water half metho never had a ping even under heavy load ,
Sorry Ben, it is completely illegal - we have been through this with the QLD Transport engineers (Same people who have to verify your other mods) - I assume you are completely familiar with ADR 17?
There have been several BMW 135is defected for way better setups than this recently (mounted in a steel tank separate from the engine compartment).
Please show me who will certify a "water" injection system - I would love to have a chat to them
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