Because the new booster isn't as deep as the old one and the cylinder is shorter there's actually more room in the engine bay which is a pleasant surprise. Maybe enough room for my next air horn project.
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Cylinder attached.
Vacuum line attached (after testing). and brake lines attached. Bending the lines is a bit fiddly but so long as you take your time and take it easy you'll avoid kinking the lines.
I'm going to install a brake switch directly off the pedal rather than use the hydraulic switches. You could plumb in T pieces and run the switches of them if you wanted to use the hydraulic switches.
Nissan Pulsar reservoir fitted up.
I was a bit worried the expansion tank wouldn't fit but it clears the booster by just enough.
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Last edited by Peter Jones; 09-01-2008 at 09:29 PM.
Because the new booster isn't as deep as the old one and the cylinder is shorter there's actually more room in the engine bay which is a pleasant surprise. Maybe enough room for my next air horn project.
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nice work mate... very impressive
I love using later model golf/seat stuff on mk1s. Keeps stuff "original"-looking but much more usable and reliable. Seat brakes especially, as the mk1s stoppers were never very good!!
this is the sort of writeup that makes vwwatercooled so useful! mods, please put this in the friggin awesome section so it can be found easily and never disappers.
keep up the good work
mike
ps ... love the horns.. do it.. you know you want to
TDI mk1 on the road!!
Those are strut top covers! Every Golf left the factory with them but few survived. I was lucky and found a pair in a wreckers on a GLD. I'd never seen a pair before then.
They stop dirt getting into the bearing on top of the strut.
I reckon you could find caps off another car with struts that would do the same job. Take a wander through a self service wrecker and see what you can find.
The lathe is very handy, I'm still learning how to use it. I can only do very basic stuff. It's very small, you'll never get a brake disc or a clutch on there. Great for nuts and bolts and just making things fit. Good for making up pins, stepbolts, bushes etc. I wish I could get the hang of the cut-off tool though. I usually resort to cutting the piece long with a hacksaw and trimming the end in the lathe.
Pete
Cool!
FYI I resize everything to 800x600 so they'll fit on anybody's screen. Then I crop them if there's irrelevant stuff on the edges to save everyone's bandwidth (hence the oddly shaped images sometimes). So the biggest image I'll use is 800x600 - the originals are 2304 x 1728 if anybody wants more detail.
I host everything on Photobucket so I guess it'll be available for a long time, the links should never expire hopefully.
Pete
Great Write up Pete!
I used to work at a joint that had 2 lathes, But I never thought about doin the stuff you do!
Keep it goin!
77'Golf
I read in Australian model engineering magazine that after 40 years practice with cut off tools become easy to use.
They advised that until you have 40 years experience use a hacksaw.
I know a guy who built a full size triple expansion steam engine and he uses a hacksaw.
The best way i have found is to take off as much as you dare with the part off tool and then hacksaw through the rest with the lathe turning as this makes it much quicker.
The worse thing is persisting with the part off tool and then just when you think you are going to do it this time it catches and it bends at 90 degrees right were you are trying to part off and the job goes bang bang bang into the bed of the lathe . Followed by a clunk as you chuck it in the bin
Nick
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