The great big MK6 Golf 118TSI tuning thread

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Originally Posted by The_Hawk

Update on mine. It was serviced this week, first major service, and it all checked out OK, compression OK etc. New plugs seem to have solved the misfire, tested on cold it's not happening and when warm it's always run fine. The N249 errors are apparently down to the GFB DV+ and spring making the computer think the N249 isn't working correctly.

I've thought about it a bit more about the couple of misfires, I was running near the bottom of the fuel tank on 6 week old fuel too, so maybe there is something in that too. I keep thinking instead of filling up once every 6 weeks I should just be throwing $20 in when the light comes on so the fuel is fresher.

My APR tune has been on since the very start and it's never given me any grief (and it's been up and down the strip and round a few race tracks) although I haven't logged all the duty cycles. Some say that the tune from day one protects the car from the stock tune...

Anyway, it's all humming away nicely for now so I'm happy :D

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Glad to hear that it is chugging along ok now mate!

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Originally Posted by rygreen93

I'm not actually sure. It's manufacture year 2012.

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That sucks dude. If you're interested, have a look at my posts (in the last few pages) in the 118 TSI service campaign thread. I did a used engine swap for about $3,500 all up. I used a 2011 block and 50,000km later it's still going strong with an APR tune running the whole time.

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Originally Posted by Mk R

That sucks dude. If you're interested, have a look at my posts (in the last few pages) in the 118 TSI service campaign thread. I did a used engine swap for about $3,500 all up. I used a 2011 block and 50,000km later it's still going strong with an APR tune running the whole time.

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Great thanks for the advice guys. Will keep you all posted.

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

Hi Guys,

Hope everyone has been enjoying their cars!!!

Personally, I have not haha!!!

They stripped my engine today. I have recently had a knee op and can't drive so this is probably not the worst timing in the world.
Have a look at what they found.

As you can see, the block is damaged and the piston and rings are cracked. So looks like a new lower end and revised pistons and rods for me. Take a look at the pics. I have spoken to the garage who have once before attempted a CTHD conversion. They said that it did not go very well and there are minor component changes which are extremely fiddely to deal with, so I will be sticking with a CAVD block and getting all the revised internals. http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=23844&stc=1http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=23845&stc=1http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=23846&stc=1http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=23847&stc=1http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/foru...id=23848&stc=1

Interested to see where this takes you.

2nd-hand GTI's seem plentiful and decently priced on the other hand...

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Originally Posted by rygreen93

Hi Guys,

Hope everyone has been enjoying their cars!!!

Personally, I have not haha!!!

They stripped my engine today. I have recently had a knee op and can't drive so this is probably not the worst timing in the world.
Have a look at what they found.

As you can see, the block is damaged and the piston and rings are cracked. So looks like a new lower end and revised pistons and rods for me. Take a look at the pics. I have spoken to the garage who have once before attempted a CTHD conversion. They said that it did not go very well and there are minor component changes which are extremely fiddely to deal with, so I will be sticking with a CAVD block and getting all the revised internals.

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I highly recommend getting wossner forged pistons - part no. K9481DA (76.5mm if you are using a new block without rebore)
or part K9481D050 77mm for a rebore. Might be a lot cheaper to just get the block rebored for 77mm pistons.

I have just installed these in my 1.4tsi 118kw - 2010 model, i didn't have any piston damage but it was purely to prevent piston failure in the future, particularly since i am going for remap's etc. There is no piston slap at startup, the engine runs quiet, very smooth.

That block of yours looks pretty new, and still has the honing marks on the cylinder walls, must be fairly low mileage....how many miles?

In terms of the actual differences between CTHD and CAVD - hardly anything has changed....they use the same piston part numbers as a 2012 CAVD, same conrod's, valves, rockers, valve springs, crankshaft & bearings, the only differences between a 2012 CAVD and a CTHD were the exhaust camshaft and ecu software....that's what some people who have looked into a CTHD conversion have overlooked - you can't use the exhaust camshaft from CAVD on a CTHD - the ecu will be expecting a variation in the valve timing.

Scanning through VW's ETKA looking at the differences shows you what little has changed.

Over the years the CAVD did receive numerous changes though, so if its a pre 2012 model then you might have the older revision pistons, injectors, coil packs, camshaft adjuster, PCV system, HPFP etc....Thats what make a CTHD more reliable, they have the last revision of the pistons (2012 versions), and all the updates the CAVD received over the years.

rygreen93, is that your Golf in the background? For some reason I though you had a MK6 Jetta!
Good luck with the rebuild though...

Has anyone changed engine and transmission mounts for their cars yet? Anyone know what the options are for our engines and dq200 dsg?

At ope126, yes that is my car in the background.

Blower, do you know if there will be any issues when re-boring the block due to the special "coating" they talk of.
I have looked into those pistons and they do appear to be cheaper than replacement VW pistons and if it is safe to have the block re-bored I would be happy to get them put in. Do you know if the microns of extra capacity will mean I need to have any tuning done?

I am definitely looking to try and completely eliminate the chance of this ever happening again. The garage doing everything for me are very "by the book" so they are very cautious of everything. I asked them about doing a rebore and using forged pistons and they want to get an engineer in to check the block. Sounds a bit overkill to me.

Yes i heard that the cylinder bore has a plasma spray coating, i have asked myself the same question in the past when i have seen people rebore this block. Other people have not had an issue with a rebore - but it would effectively remove the coating, which would mean the cylinder wall has increased friction - what long term effect this has i don't know, but others with 10,000's of miles on their engines have not had an issue. The difference in reality is probably negligible.

Regardless if you rebore or get a new block, go for the wossner pistons, especially if they are cheaper! - they are far superior to the oem pistons, being forged they are a hell of a lot stronger. They are specifically designed for this engine with the correct clearances, and are machined to very high tollerance - wossner make the best pistons imo. The kit comes with the rings and conrod pins so they are just a drop in replacement. You can use the existing conrod's - they are tough on this engine.

My only concern with forged pistons was potential piston slap on cold starts - but i have not had any problems, the engine is no louder than before on a cold start, the alloy used in the wossner pistons means there isn't much expansion at higher temperatures so they don't need to have them fit so loosely to allow for it, plus the molybdenum coated wide skirts will reduce the amount the piston can rock in the bore.